boards whose bulk makes them hard to duckdive can help maintain momentum
and resurface faster and quicker actually aiding the process.
and resurface faster and quicker actually aiding the process.
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Is it possible to rip on a mid-length?
- Thread starter csarqui
- Start date
I have a 7’2 Vaquero that’s 3 1/8 thick and have manage to get under head high waves with it.
I do what I call the “Walter wedge” technique.
I named it after a guy from Puerto Rico named Walter who I met in Mexico. We invited him to go with us by boat to a spot we named “yellow cactus”.
He was riding a mid length and would get under waves with a sort of duck dive/half turtle. He’d tip the board on its side while going through a breaking wave and it created a sort of wedge effect.
Takes a practice but it really expands the size of boards you can duck dive.
Some day I’ll sell all my boards and replace them with a 7’2 F-Rocket.
I have a lot to say but I'm just not inclined to do so at the moment. For the time being I'll leave this here. Some of the things being called midlengths are laughable. This reminds of of when you could take a thruster, put a swalow tail on it and pimp it out as a "fish."
Chocki, is this yours? That is a thing of beauty! That video says a lot but would be great to hear a review of sorts if so. Single fins with channels, seem like a fantastic match!
How's the rails on yours? Mine are very foiled, which actually surprised me when I picked it up. When I ordered it I had been coming off a 10' day with extremely strong offshores (I was denied entry often)so I told Marc I saw this board for those type waves possibly in mind. Now having it I doubt I would take it out in that (and those waves dickdiving would be rough!). I was thinking my rails might be more foiled than norm.
I’ll take pics and post them later when I get home.
Same for me. Aside from like 5 surfers (Tom Curren for example), shortboard surfing or “ripping” just looks bad and is kind of dorky. Although I have been riding a standard HPSB on a lot of small crappy days trying to use its maneuverability to seek out speed, power, and flow from the wave instead of forcing choppy flailing slidey ”turns“—in other words, not ripping by many definitions in this thread.
I think a lot of the reason a lot of shorboarders have bad style is that as soon as they become competent they are just forcing speed, regardless of what the wave is delivering, towards the next ramp. Mid length or a proper fish could go a long way to create better flow with wave here. kind of similar example, I was at the skatepark last night and this kid can barely drop in and is spastically trying to get a run going in a bowl, but not for smooth transitions or even a basic grind but to do an ollie mid wall-hard to watch. For me anyways, However he was probably wondering why I am padded head to toe and taking little to no risks risks, ha!
everytime i was on a midlength i wanted to be on st shorter.
the stamps spegg seems cool. may have time make me a stubb vector type boar
the stamps spegg seems cool. may have time make me a stubb vector type boar
I’m in the not surfing at the moment club but as soon as things change, there will be a Parmenter on order along with something from the Son of Speed, Joel Fitz. My first board was a 5’10” channel bottom single. Me mum was nice enough to take me to Surfer’s Supplies. I wanted the latest and greatest, a twin fin. Dude helping us out says you’re walking out with a single fin or empty handed.
So I was never completely sold on the thruster for what I really wanted to do despite what the industry told me. I was fortunate enough to buy Litmus the day it hit my local surf shop, confirming I wasn’t completely crazy. I stopped by for wax/some conversation and the owner tells me “they made this for you”. He loved me b/c I’d buy all the retro boards off his used rack that everyone else thought was lame.
As for my “review” of a 6’6” Channel bottom single. The refinement of a time tested design. I’ve owned many extremely similar vintage models. They worked in everything from knee to its time to not paddle out high (see Ando Apache). I never didn’t have fun riding one. The one board to rule them all.
On Craft | The Surfers Journal
Dave Parmenter and Andrew Kidman discuss the art, science, craft, and romance of the traditional handmade surfboard. From TSJ 19.6.
www.surfersjournal.com
why not have Dave make you a stubb vector type board?
ride the shortest board the conditions will permit with no struggle. Glider, LB, Mid, SB, fish, or minisim. Makes sense right?
I have a theory I developed when I was living in Central America, based off the teachings of DH that I refined and confirmed by smoking massive amounts of dank cones while sitting on the beach after many dawn patrols and wondering why almost everyone had sh!t style/surfed like Capt. Caveman.
Thrusters and contests. Thrusters let you angle in on takeoff/not learn how to drop straight in and do a bottom turn if you don’t make yourself.
They’re fast enough that you don’t have to learn how to generate speed/climb and drop/surf top to bottom.
They let you surf entirely off the tail of the board, don’t make you learn how to bury the rail.
Contests reward this lame caught behind the curl, catch up and perform maneuver, rinse and repeat style of surfing that discourages/doesn’t reward enough down the line speed/surfing.
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As usual, Sam G thinks that the universe revolves around him. That everyone surfs like him and in the same waves as him. And that we all want the same from our surfing.Sam George thinks more of us should ride mid lengths.
Sam George's important message to BeachGrit readers: "You're riding the wrong surfboard…you rarely do an actual bottom turn…can't paddle, can't takeoff…you run ahead of the curl etc"
Here’s the thing: you’re riding the wrong surfboard. The wrong surfboard, that is, if you have no surf contest trophies in your well-stocked boardroom, no sponsorship deals, less than six stickers top and bottom and only family and friends subscribing to your vlog. Forget what all the promo...beachgrit.com