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Is it possible to rip on a mid-length?

Chocki

Chocki

Phil Edwards status
Feb 18, 2007
6,552
7,097
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Planet Earth
Woke AF said:
I have never accomplished anything while surfing. And if I do I hope that will be the day I stop.
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That’s a beautiful board. I’m jealous that you’re able to ride waves. I haven’t in about 5 years. Who knows when I will again? I’m pretty sure I know where (at least a month long “residency” at a long left point break with many other less crowded options). 6’4-6” Parm is a given. Spitfire fin.

I just remembered something else I’m proud of doing while I surfed. Going down to Central America in the late 90s with a Nautical Chart of the region and going surfing with the born there locals at places that as far as they knew “no one had ever surfed before” (big stretch of coastline you can’t see from the road).

The caption to the picture that day was “Haleiwa Comes To ?”
 
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Toobz

OTF status
Oct 8, 2013
279
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63
South Oz.
VaB said:
So then what boards are between a standard midlength and a standard HPSB?

Nautilus? (yes, per shaper)
Vector?
F-rocket?
just any oversized SB?
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This covers that ground perfectly for me.
Upright twins for beachies/tight pockets, keels for tiny runners or big open faces. It goes amazing backhand too.
6’10 x 21 x 2 5/8.
I’d love to get a Nautilus one day, I’ve been pining over one of those for years.
 
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Chocki

Chocki

Phil Edwards status
Feb 18, 2007
6,552
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chilly1 said:
I think a lot of the reason a lot of shorboarders have bad style is that as soon as they become competent they are just forcing speed, regardless of what the wave is delivering, towards the next ramp. Mid length or a proper fish could go a long way to create better flow with wave here. kind of similar example, I was at the skatepark last night and this kid can barely drop in and is spastically trying to get a run going in a bowl, but not for smooth transitions or even a basic grind but to do an ollie mid wall-hard to watch. For me anyways, However he was probably wondering why I am padded head to toe and taking little to no risks risks, ha!
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Another thing I noticed watching people surf is how many of them think that swiveling their upper body has something to do with turning. That and weighting and unweighting their front foot ala the Huntington hop will somehow make them go faster. Nothing was more important to me surfing than going fast so I asked my friend Sully who surfed wicked fast what his secret was. Climb. Drop. Repeat. He was a big dude too but really fast on his feet and could do this in tiny junk surf.

My trick that’s guaranteed to improve your style. I came up with it after doing bong tokes and watching Searching For Tom Curren too many times. Try and touch the water.
1596886154276.jpeg

That and if you can grab your outside rail during a turn you probably should.
 
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Havoc

Havoc

Rabbitt Bartholomew status
May 23, 2016
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in da hood next to paradise
Chocki said:
What’s your greatest surfing accomplishment(s)? I have a few I’m proud of. While I can’t claim to have paddled out every time, I paddled out while most did not and if they did they shouldn’t have.

I almost always got my waves at normally competitive spots. I didn’t care about quantity only quality. While I wasn’t the best surfer, I sat deep and usually got one of the waves of the day. Clean up sets were my friend.

Have you ever been out on a day so good it got a two page spread in Surfer? I don’t know exactly how big it was, just bigger than me. Last of the secret spots. Legit rock off to start. If you didn’t know where to paddle out you were not getting out even during a lull. Some non-locals somehow found it and I was in a good mood so I told them exactly what they needed to do. They didn’t paddle out.

I was in my Tom Curren “fish” phase so I was on a 5’10” Doc L. In addition to getting my share of bombs at a predominantly RH break (“nobody goes left”) I got a gnarly left that connected across the reef/through the sickest bowl section all the way to the buoy. A friend who went to Indo a lot said I was ripping. I don’t remember wiping out that day, I’m pretty sure if I did I’d remember it. I think the pros they were there to shoot were brothers.

Paddling in and getting out of the water was just as gnarly if not worse than the rock off. I always made sure my leash was off for both.
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weird flex but OK :shaka:
 
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Chocki

Chocki

Phil Edwards status
Feb 18, 2007
6,552
7,097
113
Planet Earth
Havoc said:
weird flex but OK :shaka:
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I took offense at being called at as a “poser” and felt inclined to set the record straight. Now that I think about it I’m really glad I was able to surf there when I did, with the fairly recent increase in the GWS population that is 100% where there is the highest risk of being hit surfing in that area (deep water/long paddle). Even if you just get nibbled, you’re done.
 
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tacos

Michael Peterson status
Feb 12, 2006
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LB —> SF
stringcheese said:
I like the Toryn Martin videos, looked into those boards...
He's riding 5'7s and shlt :ROFLMAO:
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Are they all? I know that Indo clip (Left barrel—desert point?) he’s on a small board like that, but there’s no way the boards are that small in a lot of the videos he’s going right in—Mexico, Iceland, etc. I thought those were at least mid 6 foot range to low 7.

but his surfing on that 5’7” is 5/7 star surfing at least.
 
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Aruka

Aruka

Tom Curren status
Feb 23, 2010
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tacos said:
Are they all? I know that Indo clip (Left barrel—desert point?) he’s on a small board like that, but there’s no way the boards are that small in a lot of the videos he’s going right in—Mexico, Iceland, etc. I thought those were at least mid 6 foot range to low 7.

but his surfing on that 5’7” is 5/7 star surfing at least.
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don't listen to cheesebrain, torren is riding all kinds of boards over mid 6 and up to like 7'4" in many of his clips.
 
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