*** Official 2020 Community Surf Journal ***

[bluengreen]

Wild and wooly out there this morning. Something like 4 competing swells, light onshore wind, murky water, heavy sideshore current. A little undergunned on a 6'1. Got clobbered by a barrage of waves on the way out and promptly dragged north through some crappy sandbars. Caught two peaks that fizzled. Suddenly I had to take a sh!t even though I went 45 minutes earlier. Got one more that lined up, pumped down the line, bottom turned and as I came up I was too late to the lip. Bailed and got smashed. As I was changing at my car, someone asked me if I'd seen the sharks cruising around. Didn't but it sure felt sharky out there. This is kinda how my last few sessions have gone. A lot of abuse, closeouts, and frustration. At least it wasn't crowded.

 

[Muscles]

Zoo fest this morning. Groms are out in full force since they don't have school. One little grom tried to spin and go when I was already going on the wave. Straight up stuffed him. I have no patience for groms that didn't learn respect.

Update. Friend sent me the kids instagram.

It's pathetic. Account is clearly run by his mom who is trying to desperately get him a sponsor. The kid isn't even a good surfer. lol.

 

[Ifallalot]

9 AM weekday is the best time if you can swing it.

For sure. That was my usual time at my old job on my old schedule.

I call it "Gentleman's Hour" because that's when the old men are usually on it, but my buddy calls it "Loser Hour" because of all the unemployed

 

[teeroi]

Dawned Bowls. Swell was way overhyped. It was smaller than yesterday. Right in that size range all the donkeys are out of the barn.

Drank some coffee with double the caffeine. It was an angry buzz. Haha. Heckled all my friends and tried to burn this young guy on a lb but my friends got in the way. I yelled what you guys blocking for donkeys now.

Got a couple of swoops and lip bashes. Went in pretty early.

In the parking lot Walter asked me how my sister was doing. He hadn’t seen her surfing in almost two months. Told him she was being “overly cautious” with the huge crowds out at Rockpiles nowadays. The thing is Walter used to be a friend but I haven’t spoken to him in years. Once he and his brother started SUP I got so mad at them burning me I told them off and haven’t said a pleasant thing to them in over ten years. There have been homophobic slurs and kook and donkey yelled there way and an occasional burn but not a nice word. I guess Walter has been watching all those We’re in it together PSA spots so he reached out. I texted my sister and she replied at least you were civil to him. Haha. To be continued.

 

[Aruka]

Today it rained. I stayed inside for the most part and then went looking for waves in the evening. A low slung cloud bank rendered the coastal mountains topless. Everything was tinged grey except the ocean which was a dark tea color. Nothing special as far as waves but I got a couple snaps on the Driver. I felt tired and I missed the best wave to come near me. Felt good to get out and move around after being cooped up inside.

 

[racer1]

Dawned Bowls. Swell was way overhyped. It was smaller than yesterday. Right in that size range all the donkeys are out of the barn.

Drank some coffee with double the caffeine. It was an angry buzz. Haha. Heckled all my friends and tried to burn this young guy on a lb but my friends got in the way. I yelled what you guys blocking for donkeys now.

Got a couple of swoops and lip bashes. Went in pretty early.

In the parking lot Walter asked me how my sister was doing. He hadn’t seen her surfing in almost two months. Told him she was being “overly cautious” with the huge crowds out at Rockpiles nowadays. The thing is Walter used to be a friend but I haven’t spoken to him in years. Once he and his brother started SUP I got so mad at them burning me I told them off and haven’t said a pleasant thing to them in over ten years. There have been homophobic slurs and kook and donkey yelled there way and an occasional burn but not a nice word. I guess Walter has been watching all those We’re in it together PSA spots so he reached out. I texted my sister and she replied at least you were civil to him. Haha. To be continued.

Do not relent! Fuck that SUP!

 

[Ifallalot]

Time to open up the parking and all the beaches. I’ve never seen my local so crowded, even on a warm summer weekend.

It’s simple supply and demand, open up the supply, and we’ll be more spread out

Maybe I should wake up earlier and walk further

Waves were fun combo stuff

Also, I broke a leash that I’ve had since I lived in Santa Cruz, so that means it’s at least 10 years old if not 15 or 20. I’d say that was worth the 20 bucks

 

[Muscles]

I ordered some trailer fins for a quad setup. Didn't come yesterday. I received the arriving late notification. Well, today I track the package and somehow it went past Oahu and ended up in Guam. Really wanted them to be here for the upcoming North swell.

 

[retodd]

First surf in weeks felt like this lololol

In all seriousness it was fun

 

[oeste858]

I ordered some trailer fins for a quad setup. Didn't come yesterday. I received the arriving late notification. Well, today I track the package and somehow it went past Oahu and ended up in Guam. Really wanted them to be here for the upcoming North swell.

Missed it by that much!
That stinks. Which board were they for?

 

[Muscles]

Missed it by that much!
That stinks. Which board were they for?

My Lost Psycho Killer. I mostly use this board for the good not great category of waves. I have a 6'5 Ghost on order to be the good wave board. Don't get me wrong though, the Psycho Killer is probably the best board I've ever owned. It's just a tad to small when there's a lot of water moving around.

Rode it as a quad, thruster, and twin plus trailer. Really liked it as a quad. But, I was a hardcore 3 fin thruster squash tail guy for years so I need to expand my collection of quad setups. I was borrowing the quad fins I was using from my brother. I already have the GL large templates from NVS. So the AM large trailers should be a nice compliment.

 

[oeste858]

Nice. That board looks fun. I always wanted to try a Quiver Killer, which I believe is similar. How did the twin+trailer feel in it? Is it a nice middle-ground between twin/thruster, or more like not quite as good as either?

 

[CutnSnip]

Time to open up the parking and all the beaches. I’ve never seen my local so crowded, even on a warm summer weekend.

It’s simple supply and demand, open up the supply, and we’ll be more spread out

Maybe I should wake up earlier and walk further

Waves were fun combo stuff

Also, I broke a leash that I’ve had since I lived in Santa Cruz, so that means it’s at least 10 years old if not 15 or 20. I’d say that was worth the 20 bucks

i aprked and walked very far south of the pier at dawn yesterday. wound up with my own peak, no one around for 300 yards in either direction. North of the pier is a mess except maybe near seapoint but again lots of walking.

 

[Ifallalot]

i aprked and walked very far south of the pier at dawn yesterday. wound up with my own peak, no one around for 300 yards in either direction. North of the pier is a mess except maybe near seapoint but again lots of walking.

Yeah, it was emptier up there but I could see all the old men had took the parking that's in the general proximity and had all their Trestles rigs out to shorten the trip down to Cliffs

 

[teeroi]

NS is forecasted to get even bigger. Was hoping for a west wrap in town but it was small this morning. Ended up just watching guys surf small Bowls and talking sh!t in the parking lot. Left when HPD arrived for their morning surf check. The cops patrolling that beat have been very cool to the surfers. Whenever they show up most of us make sure we’re not all bunched together gossiping anyway. Haha. The city parks open on Saturday including the beach park. Hopefully it will spread out the town surfers a little more.

 

[Muscles]

Nice. That board looks fun. I always wanted to try a Quiver Killer, which I believe is similar. How did the twin+trailer feel in it? Is it a nice middle-ground between twin/thruster, or more like not quite as good as either?

It's more like not quite as good as either. I'm not a huge twin fin fan. I love keels. But I never liked regular twins. I think a quad is much more versatile. I still prefer a thruster in good waves.

 

[000]

4th day of fun looking surf theyve focked us out of with this covid sh1t

 

[Oceanslide]

Went down twice today to torture myself, once with the fam to the usual and it looked pretty fun and playful. Another time just to mind-Surf...bit further south, and it looked fun as fook. About to chew my arm off now.

Brightside...pool is up to 75 degrees and epic kid play time ensued!

 

[doc_flavonoid]

4th day of fun looking surf theyve focked us out of with this covid sh1t

last week was fall 2.0, facilitating between light offshores and glass for 5-6 days straight. nice little ground swell running. managed a couple low profile sessions, but had a hard time getting over how pissed i was about getting fucked off the best bars by the police state bs.

now it doesn't fuckin matter, unless you want to drive a couple hours to someone else's shelter space, pressure gradient's ramped up and its gonna blow for the foreseeable

 

[racer1]

The city parks open on Saturday including the beach park. Hopefully it will spread out the town surfers a little more.

Please Lord. Need all these critters out of my spot.