Dawned Bowls. Compared to the forecast it was a letdown. But....the waves were really good when they came in. Pretty slow. Around head high, glassy, peeling. Got a couple that just drained but was too small to tuck in. I’d have to do the lean forward double rail grab on my frontside. I could get into that position but no way I could stAnd back up if I made a barrel. So mostly just flew thru those sections and did a roundhouse. On one of those thought I saw Mitch from HIC paddling out so I did a high speed figure 8 cutback to whitewater off the lip rebound. It wasn’t him. I told my friend Eddy I wasted my best turn showing off to a guy didn’t even know. Haha.
At one point we were waiting for waves for a long time. This guy Eric paddles out on his longboard. He’s an older guy that I’ve had words with just a few months ago. He asked how the waves were? I told him they’re too good for you. He says yeah Ken said there’s long waits. After ten minutes a bump comes in and I start paddling for it but Eric goes from outside. I would’ve burned him but he was pretty close When he paddled back out I gave it to him. Told him we've been waiting forever for a set and you go on the first good one and don’t even make it. He tells me I said thanks for the wave. I told him you've been getting too comfortable taking advantage of how nice we've been to you. I’m going to bring a sh*tty board and burn you every wave next time I see you. He stayed away from me after that and got a couple of small ones and went in. The rest of the lineup were grateful.