surfed my kenson quad twinzer for the first time in 3 weeks. had to travel and do some maneuvers to get some surf but i was feeling like i needed to jump in the water and surprisingly there was some swell at certain spots that made it worth the effort. got one really good right and did a full roundhouse, the rest were mainly lefts and fast runners. hour and a half and feel like i might just become a surfer again some day...
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*** Official 2020 Community Surf Journal ***
- Thread starter jkb
- Start date
nope, gave a couple of drifters a lecture on social distancing
Surfed two days ago.
Getting used to the 5 mil suit. I’d imagine it adds prob 20 lbs to you. I wanna surf my fish but it’s just so much extra weight I end up surfing my longboard.
Getting used to the 5 mil suit. I’d imagine it adds prob 20 lbs to you. I wanna surf my fish but it’s just so much extra weight I end up surfing my longboard.
Here’s how big the swell was the other day in RI.
I didn’t have anyone to go with so ended up somewhere else.
Paddled out in some small stuff just to get wet. Took a board out that I've had for about a year and hadn't surfed in awhile. Kind of shocking how dead it felt compared to my new board. Pretty much finished with PU boards after the fish I just bought. It is just too weak of a material for the price.
Just ordered a 6'5 ghost in stock dims from XTR. Can't wait to surf it.
Just ordered a 6'5 ghost in stock dims from XTR. Can't wait to surf it.
Dawned Bowls. It’s really small but a hair bigger than yesterday so I went out. Took the Tokoro Moonfish. Got a set of the NVS L Apex Peregrine fins to try. Put some screws in the Fcs2 boxes and good to go. Been getting emails for all kinds of discounted things. I think the fins were $64 delivered. They’re the K2.1 template. The Moonfish has a lot of built in speed so wanted to try a more upright fin. It’s hard to tell with the small waves but it didn’t feel worse.
Got a couple of fun runners that were about waist high. One hit the reef just right and my speed pumps were actually hitting the lip over and over cause the little nugget stood up. Surfed til 7am so I could hit up Walmart when it opened. Plus when the waves are small my knee starts to ache from having to push so hard on turns. Didn’t want to overextend when there’s mire waves forecasted.
Got a couple of fun runners that were about waist high. One hit the reef just right and my speed pumps were actually hitting the lip over and over cause the little nugget stood up. Surfed til 7am so I could hit up Walmart when it opened. Plus when the waves are small my knee starts to ache from having to push so hard on turns. Didn’t want to overextend when there’s mire waves forecasted.
Here’s a pic of by the Hilton lagoon looking toward Diamond Head. Sunny weekend day no one on the beach.
Dawned Bowls. Got a text from someone at my NS regular saying it’s 4 feet some closeouts 4 guys out. Maybe should’ve went up there. Town is small and crowded. A little bigger will thin out the beginners and out of shape guys. But right now it’s the right size to bring everyone out of the woodworks.
Long waits but some fun ones. Paddled out and my friends were trying to talk crap to me. So I told them I’m going to sit inside and burn you Fakas. Next set Jerome went but he was too close to burn. I dropped in on Malcolm on the very next wave, saw Jerome paddling back out pumped to the shoulder and sprayed him. I started yelling two for one. Burned Malcolm and sprayed Jerome. The rest of the lineup were cracking up along with Jerome and Malcolm. Small waves shenanigans. Jerome goes hope your in a better mood now. I was. Haha
Long waits but some fun ones. Paddled out and my friends were trying to talk crap to me. So I told them I’m going to sit inside and burn you Fakas. Next set Jerome went but he was too close to burn. I dropped in on Malcolm on the very next wave, saw Jerome paddling back out pumped to the shoulder and sprayed him. I started yelling two for one. Burned Malcolm and sprayed Jerome. The rest of the lineup were cracking up along with Jerome and Malcolm. Small waves shenanigans. Jerome goes hope your in a better mood now. I was. Haha
First surf since the beginning of the lockdown today. Small, weak, and fairly sh!tty, but man it felt great to get in the water
Surf was good up here. My 7 month work trip to the north east has been fun. Here was the surf yesterday
A 5 mil suit and 7 mil gloves and booties is extremely difficult to paddle in. Makes it tough to surf shortboards.
A 5 mil suit and 7 mil gloves and booties is extremely difficult to paddle in. Makes it tough to surf shortboards.
Dawned Bowls. It was about the same size as yesterday but cleaner and less crowded. Nothing like the epic waves NS has been getting but some fun ones.
Rode my Tokoro X2 with the NVS Apex Peregrine fins. Works great. Board has lots of built in drive the upright fins helped loosen it up a tad. Waves were a little soft on the outside but got better as it hit the inside reef. Hopefully the forecasted swell fills in later.
Stoke.Ed that Jeannie got a couple of nice runners. She won the dawn patrol heat.
Rode my Tokoro X2 with the NVS Apex Peregrine fins. Works great. Board has lots of built in drive the upright fins helped loosen it up a tad. Waves were a little soft on the outside but got better as it hit the inside reef. Hopefully the forecasted swell fills in later.
Stoke.Ed that Jeannie got a couple of nice runners. She won the dawn patrol heat.
Surfed the past 4 days in a row.
Day 1 - Reopening of the beaches in Santa Cruz County. Surfed a super fun left with just a friend. This spot is usually crowded but since parking is shut down in many spots still, crowd factor was not in play. Not surprisingly, the spot nearest to the open parking was most crowded, even though that spot doesn't usually doesn't see as much traffic. Only bummer part of the session was the over zealous lifeguard who was getting people to come in and ask them how they got to the peak, to see if they "trespassed" over the park boundary in order to access the surf.
Day 2 - went for a bike ride in the middle part of the day, then paddled out at a fun right near sunset. Playful chest-shoulder high waves. As it started getting darker, it was just the same friend and I. Watched the stars come out, could barely see when I came in on the beach.
Day 3 - Bike ride in the afternoon again, and then the same spot at sunset. Ocean7847, myself and a handful of others in slightly bigger surf than the day before. Got a couple waves on drone footage. Not anything particularly mind-blowing about my surfing, but always good to have some media. Surf started pulsing bigger after the sun went down.
The beaches were packed everywhere in Santa Cruz County. They have main parking spots/lots shut down, but people are just parking in obscure places they didn't used to park in, and walking a little further to access the same spots. Kind of defeating the purpose of discouraging people from visiting in droves.
Day 4 (today) - Feeling surfed out and/or generally exhausted from the activities all week, but had another great session at the same right. Swell jumped since yesterday, as well as the wind, but the peak was decently protected from the NW direction. Shoulder-head+ carvable rights. Super satisfied with the past four days. Back to work tomorrow.
Day 1 - Reopening of the beaches in Santa Cruz County. Surfed a super fun left with just a friend. This spot is usually crowded but since parking is shut down in many spots still, crowd factor was not in play. Not surprisingly, the spot nearest to the open parking was most crowded, even though that spot doesn't usually doesn't see as much traffic. Only bummer part of the session was the over zealous lifeguard who was getting people to come in and ask them how they got to the peak, to see if they "trespassed" over the park boundary in order to access the surf.
Day 2 - went for a bike ride in the middle part of the day, then paddled out at a fun right near sunset. Playful chest-shoulder high waves. As it started getting darker, it was just the same friend and I. Watched the stars come out, could barely see when I came in on the beach.
Day 3 - Bike ride in the afternoon again, and then the same spot at sunset. Ocean7847, myself and a handful of others in slightly bigger surf than the day before. Got a couple waves on drone footage. Not anything particularly mind-blowing about my surfing, but always good to have some media. Surf started pulsing bigger after the sun went down.
The beaches were packed everywhere in Santa Cruz County. They have main parking spots/lots shut down, but people are just parking in obscure places they didn't used to park in, and walking a little further to access the same spots. Kind of defeating the purpose of discouraging people from visiting in droves.
Day 4 (today) - Feeling surfed out and/or generally exhausted from the activities all week, but had another great session at the same right. Swell jumped since yesterday, as well as the wind, but the peak was decently protected from the NW direction. Shoulder-head+ carvable rights. Super satisfied with the past four days. Back to work tomorrow.
Been some fun waves. The best bar around is in the next town up North about 30 min away. I know all the guys, most are friends at least the old heads. Lots of new faces in the lineup, guys who've moved to the area in the past year or two. Funny when they try to pull the local card on me or my buddy who've been surfing these breaks for the past 15 years. One in particular was being super aggressive. He's been here a year, moved from Santa Cruz. Good enough surfer to catch waves, make it down the line and not much else. Good enough to be a pain in the ass basically. Anyways, he got all aggro with my friend and it didn't work out too well for him. None of the real locals backed him up and me and my buddy made it our mission to take any wave he was in position for. Today when I paddled out on the backside of the peak a really nice wave came that he had been waiting for. Had it been anyone else I would have hooted them into it but you know I took that shiz. He went in shortly after.
Been riding the 6-6 Album twinny and a 6-4 Driver 2.0. Both boards are feeling great.
Been riding the 6-6 Album twinny and a 6-4 Driver 2.0. Both boards are feeling great.
I don’t understand people like that. People like move to Hawaii and then leave and tell everyone we are racist
I showed up to the north east and even though I can surf better then 90 percent of the people here (not bragging, just the talent pool is shallow)- I still didn’t head straight to the peak and hassle people. I sat on the sides and waited my turn even if guys were blowing it.
Then again I grew up in hawaii in the time where you’d catch cracks and get sent in for misbehaving so it’s stuck with me.
I showed up to the north east and even though I can surf better then 90 percent of the people here (not bragging, just the talent pool is shallow)- I still didn’t head straight to the peak and hassle people. I sat on the sides and waited my turn even if guys were blowing it.
Then again I grew up in hawaii in the time where you’d catch cracks and get sent in for misbehaving so it’s stuck with me.
Yesterday as I was paddling in I caught up with Sam. He’s an older Hawaiian man that lives on a house boat right by the Bowls bathroom. He told me nice right you got to go in on. We started talking and he was complaining about all the randoms on longboards that have been showing up. I told him you gotta just tell them Unko going on this one if you want a wave or just burn them. They’re not going to say anything anyway. He mostly surfs the right or a little over toward Rockpiles.
I told him nothing an old man on a shortboard hates more than a young man on a longboard. He laughed,“ but I’m on a longboard” I told him you’re old you qualify to ride that. The young guys probably park in the handicap stalls too. Haha
We talked about the old days. When you would get an earful and or cracks if you did something to **** off an older local. And if you cried to your dad he would ask what did you do? Then you’d get a crack from him too.
There is one factor that I think is common among those who are terrible to surf with around here. The adult learner factor. I don't want to paint everyone with a wide brush because I know a few people who took up surfing later in life who are super humble and fun to surf with but often times the most frustrating guy in the lineup is the one who never had to start at the bottom as a grom taking scraps. They are the top salesman at the real estate office, they rule over their kids with an iron fist so why wouldn't they instantly be part of the rotation for set waves even though they only make half their drops and don't know how to lineup other than in relation to you? Maybe they are physically imposing as well which lessens the chance that someone would ever give them a lesson in etiquette. I hassle my friends from this town to the North because they have done a poor job of regulating the recently arrived. As they say, it takes a village to regulate kooks.