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Wipeout Advice in Bigger Surf?

HotHail

HotHail

Mar 13, 2019
74
59
18
Do you know that moment when you've f'd up in big surf, and then all goes silent for that brief little peace before all hell breaks loose? Well, I sure do. I'm no Torrey Meister, but I got my ass handed to me today. Now, I've wiped out plenty (and in bigger conditions than today) but this was the most violent beat down that I can remember. It got my thinking that maybe there was something I should have done that I didn't do. I've always assumed that there's not much more you can do than just relax, curl up, and get thrashed, but maybe I'm missing a trick or two. What do you do in a big wipeout when there's no time to pin drop or dive through the back of the wave?
 
Subway

Subway

Administrator
Staff member
Dec 31, 2008
13,539
10,208
113
LBNY
Yeah this year especially I’ve wondered similar things. But I find laughing (at least inside your head) while getting beat down towards or on top of a reef in froth and chaos that tries to tear you apart and won’t let you up, I think that helps you relax, and yeah you always make it up (faster than you think) so just take it. And if you don’t make it up chances are you won’t know it anyway so why worry. For the record I am not talking about hold downs we see in the Jaws contest, but big enough north and South Pacific days in the 15-20 foot + range.
 
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Duffy LaCoronilla

Duffy LaCoronilla

Duke status
Apr 27, 2016
39,178
28,783
113
everysurfer said:
I pipes an eardrum in 10' Tahiti. Didnt know which way to swim up.

That sucked
Click to expand...
I hit my ear on my board in 1 ft Santa Barbara which broke my ear drum an almost drown in shin deep water.

A few years later I was diving at Socorro Island and that same ear decided to fuck up my day. Going full vertigo 80 feet under water where it’s a mere 36 hour boat ride to the nearest Mexican hospital will skew your perspective on things for quite some time.
 
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HotHail

HotHail

Mar 13, 2019
74
59
18
I've had my share of hold downs, getting elevator-ed, getting plunged, bounced off the bottom, dragged through the inside, multiple set waves on the head, pitched, etc. I'm not usually all that worried about not making it through or not coming back up. But, do you know those paint mixing machines that shake back and forth? I got shook so much I started to get lightheaded under water. It was a new one for me. I still laughed when I came back up and paddled back out for more, but it just got me wondering if I could have avoided it somehow.

everysurfer said:
I pipes an eardrum in 10' Tahiti. Didnt know which way to swim up.
Click to expand...
That does suck. What'd you do?
 
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everysurfer

everysurfer

Phil Edwards status
Sep 9, 2013
6,713
1,811
113
Santa Barbara County
HotHail said:
I've had my share of hold downs, getting elevator-ed, getting plunged, bounced off the bottom, dragged through the inside, multiple set waves on the head, pitched, etc. I'm not usually all that worried about not making it through or not coming back up. But, do you know those paint mixing machines that shake back and forth? I got shook so much I started to get lightheaded under water. It was a new one for me. I still laughed when I came back up and paddled back out for more, but it just got me wondering if I could have avoided it somehow.



That does suck. What'd you do?
Click to expand...
Floated for a minute, figured I'd float up. Then I figured the next wave would get me night as I floated to the top. So I did a leash climb, and got a breath before the next wave hit. Couldn't duck, because I didn't know which way was down. Slam, roll tumble, and climb the leash again. Set ended, and I paddled in.
 
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everysurfer

everysurfer

Phil Edwards status
Sep 9, 2013
6,713
1,811
113
Santa Barbara County
One time I asked Laird how to survive. He said, clinch until it lets you go, and then swim with just your arms. Legs use up more O2.

I was really thinking how do you keep your arms atrached. But I took whatever insight he gave
 
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surfysurfy1476

surfysurfy1476

Nep status
Jan 27, 2018
907
231
43
everysurfer said:
One time I asked Laird how to survive. He said, clinch until it lets you go, and then swim with just your arms. Legs use up more O2.

I was really thinking how do you keep your arms atrached. But I took whatever insight he gave
Click to expand...
Clinch? I though youre supposed to relax until its time to swim up?
 
hammies

hammies

Duke status
Apr 8, 2006
15,613
14,264
113
The hands over the head thing is a win. I was doing underwater somersaults once and hit what would have been my head on the reef. Got stitches in the top of my hand instead of my scalp.
 
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Q

QuadFin

Gerry Lopez status
Oct 10, 2018
1,318
486
83
I always hands on head to protect head. If in shallow water, then I also tuck into ball.
 
S

slopokecr

Billy Hamilton status
Sep 28, 2007
1,647
19
38
Ive been surfing my entire life, and at 52 years old, im in the worst shape ive ever been in, yet surfing the biggest waves I ever have. It is because im extremely patient and calculated. Studying where and when the bomb sets break. Study and time the sets. Ive had a couple of "near drownings" in my 20s. I don't like it and avoid it. Additionally I have developed a bail technique for when you have to take the bulldozer. I point my board towards shore and give it a shove, then pindrop feet first as deep as I can while holding the leash with both hands. This puts you in a position to climb your leash. It requires a long, strong leash and double plugs. I know this doesnt address the spontaneous, nose poke, rail catch, too deep scenario. But im not a risk taker. I only take makeable waves.
 
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V

VaB

Michael Peterson status
Nov 14, 2004
3,078
687
113
Virginia Beach, VA
everysurfer said:
I pipes an eardrum in 10' Tahiti. Didnt know which way to swim up.

That sucked
Click to expand...
did same thing in 8-10 obx, nc. (which is probably not the same as 10' Tahiti) but I surfaced and couldn't tell which was was out to sea and which was was in. Long board, no leash surfing alone in Frisco.. Tried to laydown and paddle and fell off my board. tried again, fell off again. fortunately, I just held onto my board and got washed in. Not my best moment.
 
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Mr Doof

Mr Doof

Duke status
Jan 23, 2002
24,941
7,860
113
San Francisco, CA
everysurfer said:
You don't want to get beaten silly by your own bodyparts
Click to expand...
On a bigger wave falls, I pull in the arms, elbows on ribs, hands on face or forehead, wait til the thrashing is over...there is some tensing of the body and legs/arms/neck otherwise they fell like they are being pull from my torso.

Plus, I want to avoid hitting myself with my knees.elbows, and hands.

A some point, to get some stability when I am in air bubble hell, I'll extend the arms and legs so I am more or less a big X, then when that settles, start trying to tell which ways is up.

Oh, the open eye thing...not for me. Too much sand/silt/organisms for me....and if it is really big, then it is just too dark anyway.
 
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stringcheese

stringcheese

Miki Dora status
Jun 21, 2017
4,042
3,841
113
Slowly counting underwater helps me relax also. I've never gotten into the 20s, and I know I can hold my breath longer than that maybe even if you punch me. Hands over the head is my go to as well.
Deep water wipeouts scare me a lot more than shallow water wipeouts. I don't want to drown. Shallow waves remind me of being able to breathe.
 
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