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What surfing has become.
- Thread starter GromsDad
- Start date
Two kids, one surfs. She grew up at the beaches within walking distance from the house in town and the house here. I gave her my spot. After she earned it.
I think about this sometimes. Where I surf most often can be zooed out by kayakers and SUPers many of whom are a danger to others, most of whom take more than their share of waves. And I think.. who let it get like this?
Complaining about the traffic when you are the traffic.
Since we’re here talking about how popular surfing is now I just got this old Blu-ray DVD and streaming player it’s got stuff like Netflix and Tubi TV streaming video stuff. I’m looking for a decent app and I found Surfline TV the app on my damn Blu-ray player. 
Well completely uncrowded this morning, got my ass kicked by the normally feeble EC Atlantic. Paddle out on the the midlength was challenge, got a few closeouts, a actual holddown by EC standards and hand slipped when trying to prone my last one in and have a nice lump on my eyebrow
ALS?Well completely uncrowded this morning, got my ass kicked by the normally feeble EC Atlantic. Paddle out on the the midlength was challenge, got a few closeouts, a actual holddown by EC standards and hand slipped when trying to prone my last one in and have a nice lump on my eyebrow
I knew you were a sissy. What a kook.Well completely uncrowded this morning, got my ass kicked by the normally feeble EC Atlantic. Paddle out on the the midlength was challenge, got a few closeouts, a actual holddown by EC standards and hand slipped when trying to prone my last one in and have a nice lump on my eyebrow
I got warm fuzzies from the surf today, because I got in caught a few got out and stayed safely away from any others drifting through. I saw places that were more congested at times but today probably made a few people really happy.
Really fun last two days at ------- Creek, CA. Today was 4-6+ building swell, moderate offshore breeze, incredible sunrise. Managed to sit on a really nice peak just South of the handful of other surfers.
Kento went to Southern California for Thanksgiving, so Murphy's Law is in full effect around here.
Surfing North of SF is pretty much the same as it has always been.
Kento went to Southern California for Thanksgiving, so Murphy's Law is in full effect around here.
Surfing North of SF is pretty much the same as it has always been.
If going for a surf doesn't make you happy, then don't do it. Very simple.
Preach bro. The trick for me was
A) mindfulness, I tried very hard to simply be thankful for being healthy enough etc to be able to go surfing in the first place
2) again mindfulness, I also tried very hard to be aware of/look for the moments of beauty and joy that occur when one is surfing and to appreciate how lucky I was to be there at that moment in time to experience it. A dank pelican squadron fly by for example or dolphins surfing as you paddle back out, the list is endless
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