What makes a board fast?

csarqui

Legend (inyourownmind)
Oct 11, 2009
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Ok first off, I understand that it's the archer not the arrow. Point made! I've been surfing at this spot recently (see video) and the ultimate challenge is to make it down the line without getting stuck behind the section. It's usually more difficult than what the video shows. That's a good day. My question is, what design elements really help to race down the wave?

 

kpd73

Nep status
Apr 5, 2014
709
812
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I have a 6'6 CB bonzer egg that would absolutely Dominate in those conditions.

A JC Flying Fish - quad - that would kill too.
 
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000

Duke status
Feb 20, 2003
26,216
7,567
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a fast wave

man those waves look dreamy in that video

when u r surfing at your fastest, u have a steep wave, long wall, and very little of your board is even touching the water. kinda like u can waterski barefoot at a high enough speed
at speed u can plane on just a few square inches of your boards bottom, so u have less drag holding u back

also ,fins are usually faster-down the line-with less toe in
 
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griffinsurfboard

Duke status
Oct 31, 2004
25,653
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Palm Coast , Florida
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"at speed u can plane on just a few square inches of your boards bottom, so u have less drag holding u back"

This part of the controlled lift I've spoken of here for 15 years - something from the early 70's

Board designed together with fins can create this effect in all waves

Boards designed with no fin boards can never acheive this .
 

teeroi

Miki Dora status
Oct 21, 2007
5,137
9,375
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eastside oahu
That wave looks frustrating. Doesn’t look like you can do a proper bottom turn. Fast with a small pocket and soft shoulders.

I would try the FCS h4 fins. Those fins help a board go faster. Do I sound like DC and his Tomo crush. Been crushing hard on the h4’s hahaha.
 

Goingright

Gerry Lopez status
Aug 10, 2009
1,181
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I think Pete Sampras said it perfectly. Its not surfing but it relates in a way.

"I learned early that the secret of a powerful tennis serve is timing. You don’t have to be the strongest person out there. You just need to toss the ball high and to the right spot consistently. Then your body has to work in unison to snap the power just as the ball descends. It’s the uncoiling explosion."
 

Billy Ocean

Duke status
Jan 7, 2017
19,330
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I think Pete Sampras said it perfectly. Its not surfing but it relates in a way.

"I learned early that the secret of a powerful tennis serve is timing. You don’t have to be the strongest person out there. You just need to toss the ball high and to the right spot consistently. Then your body has to work in unison to snap the power just as the ball descends. It’s the uncoiling explosion."
This is a good point

there’s more than one way to generate speed

you could have a totally flat parallel railed board with no fins that would be naturally the fastest initially but without any control you would outrun the pocket and lose speed
 

Maz

Michael Peterson status
May 18, 2004
3,088
4,632
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Innzid
I've spent a lot of time there. It's wonderful and frustrating in equal measures.

- First of all, the name is no mistake, so a lot of waves will shut down. Accept that.
- Getting in early and getting that first pump off the top before dropping into a mid-face bottom turn is crucial. Hence a little more length; low-ish rocker; quad setup.
- On smaller days, being goofy and on a twin keel is the key.

I love that place at proper 2 X OH on my 6'10 Desert Storm. Pelican surfing.

1591734639770.png
 
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Maz

Michael Peterson status
May 18, 2004
3,088
4,632
113
Innzid
Looks like a fishy wave to me. After a couple weeks out of the water due to a back injury, decent sized burgery warm waves sound real good.
It barrels.
Twin fin Keel fish, slightly oversized since it looks like a lot of paddling

Some of the best surfing I've seen out there was from an older Aussie guy who lives there. 12-15ft faces, and he was on a chunky, 8ft, parallel-rail quad fish. Showed all the undergunned young guys how to surf it and on what board.
 

LifeOnMars

Michael Peterson status
Jan 14, 2020
3,164
2,106
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Ok first off, I understand that it's the archer not the arrow. Point made! I've been surfing at this spot recently (see video) and the ultimate challenge is to make it down the line without getting stuck behind the section. It's usually more difficult than what the video shows. That's a good day. My question is, what design elements really help to race down the wave?

the right user input