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Did a detailed post on this a while back but the search feature sucks, so in brief:Then what's the right answer, retard?
This is all wrong. It's all offshore canyons. For beachhbreaks and for all surf breaksDid a detailed post on this a while back but the search feature sucks, so in brief:
a) Long term: something to hold sand - meaning headlands, scattered reef below the sand, piers or jetties
b) Short term: sand movement - rivermouths, sand pumps, unusually heavy swell activity at side angles
c) Swell angle - typically you don't want a beach that is mostly steep angled swell, it's more prone to producing walled closeouts. Canyons can be good for refracting swell. Exposure to combinations of opposite direction swells can make a typically crappy beachbreak excellent and peaky.
fck. ☝that paragraph sums up all my surfing life right thereThe beauty of a good beach break is it's ever changing nature. One day it can be absolute cr@p, another day A-frame peaks up and down the beach, another day reeling down the line barrels, and then on your day off, thumping close outs. You don't just show up and get served the goods every time. You keep coming back and learn to love all the different personalities because one day ...
Did a detailed post on this a while back but the search feature sucks, so in brief:
a) Long term: something to hold sand - meaning headlands, scattered reef below the sand, piers or jetties
b) Short term: sand movement - rivermouths, BIG TIDE, sand pumps, unusually heavy swell activity at side angles
c) Swell angle - typically you don't want a beach that is mostly steep angled swell, it's more prone to producing walled closeouts. Canyons can be good for refracting swell. Exposure to combinations of opposite direction swells can make a typically crappy beachbreak excellent and peaky.
They surf in groups.Didn't you say the beach breaks were sharky?
Some beachbreaks are like anal sex.My personal shiity beach break looked so fun, until I paddled out. Closeouts, very inconsistent,when the sets came 90% were closed out and I was always in wrong spot for the makeable shoulder
I love when groups of surfers are attacked by sharks at beach breaks.They surf in groups.
I always thought groups of surfers were the sharks at beachbreaksI love when groups of surfers are attacked by sharks at beach breaks.
My friend says he imagines a giant coming along with giant can of insect spray and spraying them and killing them all.I always thought groups of surfers were the sharks at beachbreaks
IBogue Banks. It's a South facing island in Central NC with Atlantic Beach on the east end and Emerald Isle to the West.
As others said about their locations we do best on a shorter period swell. 4ft @ 9 sec is probably our best size/period for true beach break. Bigger than that it's all on the outside bars
I know it well. My dad moved to Emerald Isle when I was 10. Split my time growing up between there and So Cal with my mom. Cool spot but definitely lacking in good surf.Bogue Banks. It's a South facing island in Central NC with Atlantic Beach on the east end and Emerald Isle to the West.
As others said about their locations we do best on a shorter period swell. 4ft @ 9 sec is probably our best size/period for true beach break. Bigger than that it's all on the outside bars
you forgot one thing - it needs me not to be thereWhat makes a beachbreak have decent waves? Bathymetry, tide, natural and/or man-made structures?