What is needed for a beachbreak to be good?

casa_mugrienta

Duke status
Apr 13, 2008
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Petak Island
Then what's the right answer, retard?
Did a detailed post on this a while back but the search feature sucks, so in brief:

a) Long term: something to hold sand - meaning headlands, scattered reef below the sand, piers or jetties

b) Short term: sand movement - rivermouths, sand pumps, unusually heavy swell activity at side angles

c) Swell angle - typically you don't want a beach that is mostly steep angled swell, it's more prone to producing walled closeouts. Canyons can be good for refracting swell. Exposure to combinations of opposite direction swells can make a typically crappy beachbreak excellent and peaky.
 

kidfury

Duke status
Oct 14, 2017
25,144
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Did a detailed post on this a while back but the search feature sucks, so in brief:

a) Long term: something to hold sand - meaning headlands, scattered reef below the sand, piers or jetties

b) Short term: sand movement - rivermouths, sand pumps, unusually heavy swell activity at side angles

c) Swell angle - typically you don't want a beach that is mostly steep angled swell, it's more prone to producing walled closeouts. Canyons can be good for refracting swell. Exposure to combinations of opposite direction swells can make a typically crappy beachbreak excellent and peaky.
This is all wrong. It's all offshore canyons. For beachhbreaks and for all surf breaks
 

paunch23

Billy Hamilton status
Jun 27, 2011
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Rep. of Panama, La Barqueta, David, Chiriquí
The beauty of a good beach break is it's ever changing nature. One day it can be absolute cr@p, another day A-frame peaks up and down the beach, another day reeling down the line barrels, and then on your day off, thumping close outs. You don't just show up and get served the goods every time. You keep coming back and learn to love all the different personalities because one day ...
fck. ☝that paragraph sums up all my surfing life right there

Do you also live at a shitty beachbreak that’ll actually get good 1 session out of 10?

happy new years
 
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Northern_Shores

Miki Dora status
Mar 30, 2009
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Did a detailed post on this a while back but the search feature sucks, so in brief:

a) Long term: something to hold sand - meaning headlands, scattered reef below the sand, piers or jetties

b) Short term: sand movement - rivermouths, BIG TIDE, sand pumps, unusually heavy swell activity at side angles

c) Swell angle - typically you don't want a beach that is mostly steep angled swell, it's more prone to producing walled closeouts. Canyons can be good for refracting swell. Exposure to combinations of opposite direction swells can make a typically crappy beachbreak excellent and peaky.


I agree :)




 
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TeamScam

Miki Dora status
Jan 14, 2002
5,535
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Mid-Atlantic
'Been surfing a spot that's rarely if ever good by high falootin standards but it's been fun a few times lately because of the high tide and steeper beach/backwash factor. Angled short-med period swells(by our scale, today's 10 seconds was getting in that window).
I noticed as the tide continued coming in, the back wash was making for some fun racers and started looking for it a bit. An hour later the resulting dump was unleashing too quickly to tap into perfectly and tried to get some regular ones without too much backwash, but it wouldn't happen any longer. The tide was too high and without the perfect backwash the rides were not much..
As I was leaving, the last few waves I saw through the fog, gave me hope for tomorrow.
Sometimes the spot working the best is the spot you need to work, at all. Like the surfer having the most fun.
I miss the jetties. Mostly a romanticized notion.
 

mundus

Duke status
Feb 26, 2018
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My personal shiity beach break looked so fun, until I paddled out. Closeouts, very inconsistent,when the sets came 90% were closed out and I was always in wrong spot for the makeable shoulder:violin:
 
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casa_mugrienta

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Apr 13, 2008
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Petak Island
My personal shiity beach break looked so fun, until I paddled out. Closeouts, very inconsistent,when the sets came 90% were closed out and I was always in wrong spot for the makeable shoulder:violin:
Some beachbreaks are like anal sex.

Harder to get in than you would imagine and never as fun as you thought it would be.

- Autoprax, out!
 

Drumsurf

Billy Hamilton status
Nov 4, 2012
1,398
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Beach
Bogue Banks. It's a South facing island in Central NC with Atlantic Beach on the east end and Emerald Isle to the West.

As others said about their locations we do best on a shorter period swell. 4ft @ 9 sec is probably our best size/period for true beach break. Bigger than that it's all on the outside bars
I
Bogue Banks. It's a South facing island in Central NC with Atlantic Beach on the east end and Emerald Isle to the West.

As others said about their locations we do best on a shorter period swell. 4ft @ 9 sec is probably our best size/period for true beach break. Bigger than that it's all on the outside bars
I know it well. My dad moved to Emerald Isle when I was 10. Split my time growing up between there and So Cal with my mom. Cool spot but definitely lacking in good surf.
 

20W-50 and blood

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Feb 4, 2004
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lack of time, cpnsiderbale family/work committments, hangovers, er'bb members out of state and/or seriously injured, car issues, seriously disfigured boards. one insurmountable factor is enough...2-3 issues bring serious peaky hope...get four together and its a wave orgy
 
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