what board

JLW

Billy Hamilton status
Jul 7, 2004
1,665
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I chose a sub-6' Bonzer stubbie with down rails.

I have a board that's a bonzer. 5'11" x 20 x 2 5/8 (I shoulda gone more like 5'8" though, I only weigh like 140) The wide point is about 2 inches forward. The tail width is about 15-15.5 inches (I havent really checked). Not sure of the nose width, but it's semi-rounded.

It goes well in waves from waist high up to a tad overhead. Needs a pretty hollow wave.

Really fast (it's a bonzer, so obviously will be).

The reason I choose this board for you because to my knowledge, you don't have a bonzer yet, and it's not a bad addition to your quiver. If it's not hollow it won't ride quite as well though. It needs a wall to really get going.

Oh, and before Lee says anything, a bonzer is not the best fin setup/design for every type of wave, but they do work well as stubbies.

Or you could just make a high-performance bonzer shortboard, or just a normal high-performance tri fin. Cuz to my knowledge you don't have either of those?
 

highline rider

Miki Dora status
Jan 31, 2003
4,241
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Orange County
so far im on target for a sub 6' single to double concave thruster.

edit : update, now im in the 6-7' range.

this is what im leaning towards, a 6'8" really good wave board. either quad or bonzer. i have plenty of boards for good regular surf, but nothing really for decently sized hollow surf, everything has too wide of a tail and too short.
 

LeeD

Rabbitt Bartholomew status
Jun 26, 2003
8,203
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Berkeley,CA
For head to DOH, I'd go with a 6'8" x 18.5 tri rounded pin with Breweresqe slight shallow double concave under the feet.
Since you might need more paddle power in bigger surf, go with flat deck to increase volume, but keep it overall thin around 2.45".
Fins slightly less toe-in, maybe barely halfway to the nose, keep a wide cluster for big sweetspot, and you can go with 4.75" tall fins, which means any fin box style.
 

highline rider

Miki Dora status
Jan 31, 2003
4,241
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Orange County
in order from smallest to largest :

5'2" twin fin
5'4" thruster
5'6" keel fish
5'6" quad fish
5'7" quad fish
5'7" single fin
5'10" twin fin fish
6' single fin
9' longboard
 

000

Duke status
Feb 20, 2003
26,250
7,643
113
i say make a board for good overhead surf. like a modern 6'4" rountail thruster
 

highline rider

Miki Dora status
Jan 31, 2003
4,241
0
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Orange County
you guys are disgusting. you epect em to pddle around on one of those thin little toothpicks? how am i supposed to get any waves?

well, heres what im getting tomorrow : a 6'9r.

6'8" x 12"n x 19" x 13"t x ?
shortboard rails, standard rocker
v under front foot, double concave out the back
quad fin, front two single foiled, back double, both canted and toed past the nose.
double 6 on top, sinle 6 on bottom, epoxy glassing.

my dads christmas present to me, that and a 5'11" single fin stinger.
 

LeeD

Rabbitt Bartholomew status
Jun 26, 2003
8,203
0
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Berkeley,CA
Seems awfully narrow tail for a 19" wide 6'8"er.
Wider with slightly bigger fins might be better overall, unless you are tubing it only. Not much wider, maybe 14".
Past the nose is a lotta toe-in. As you know, I have a 6'8"er at 20" that is dead straight all 3 fins, and it's a little stiff, but OK overall.
And 4 extremely toed-in fins will be drag on the initial drop, when all 4 fins are engaged.
I want you to catch tons of big waves, so a straighter fin setup allows for earlier takeoffs and more speed on the drop ins.
My old fart recommend on toe-in is half way to the nose stringer, as it compensates for intended usage of the boards....straighter for bigger waves and longer boards, more toe for shorter boards and small wave use.
 

kane

Michael Peterson status
Sep 30, 2003
3,032
198
63
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Unless you shaped before I wouldn't do a modern shortboard. You'll be expecting high performance and most likely let down.
 

LeeD

Rabbitt Bartholomew status
Jun 26, 2003
8,203
0
0
Berkeley,CA
I think HR can shape good enough, if he sets his mind to it, as he's messed around with quite a few boards and kinda knows what's up.
As for me, ya, a few, thanks. <img src="/forum/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forum/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />
 

JLW

Billy Hamilton status
Jul 7, 2004
1,665
62
48
Highline rider, I would not recommend a quad for a gun. They work, obviously (look at Jeff Clark's Mavs guns)

*preparing for LeeD's wrath*

I would try a bonzer first before you make your decision. If you like the bonzer, make the 6'8" a bonzer.

Bonzers are faster than quads in big waves, and offer a shitload more holding power. If you are a front-footed surfer you will have to adjust a lot though, because you have to have a lot of pressure on your back foot.

Although, with the correct template, quads to work well in big hollow surf.

I rode my quad fish two days ago in shoulder high fast barrels. The thing has a WIDE tail, definitely not the best choice for those waves (looked a lot mellower from the beach). But it actually worked really well, and I made it out of a lot more barrels than I expected. Woulda been better with my bonzer stubbie, though (which has about a 14.5" tail, still pretty wide, but more doable)
 

highline rider

Miki Dora status
Jan 31, 2003
4,241
0
0
Orange County
this board is not a gun!!! The surf it will encounter is not really big. Imagine good peaky wintertime newport on a low tide, newport point on a SE over summer, and maybe a trip south to mexico. it is a good wave board. made for hollow surf, all ridden frontside, and none too big (8-12 ft). over summer i will be putting my order in for a 7'6" bonzer (sorry lee, but i just gotta get one, they look so bitchin). 6'8" is a long board, but itll paddle good and i wont care if im getting barreled and coming out.

i love the way a qaud feels in the barrel and on a wall. heres how i think im gonna go -- 5" fronts single foiled canted 6 degrees and toed in an 1/8" @ standard thruster side placement, rear 3.75" double foiled no cant or tow, 4" from tail.

im just gonna try my best to be as conventional and simple as possible with this one, no wierd ass rails or decks or bottoms.

jlw, i know you love your bonzer, im getting my own via dk. it will be a 6'1" stubbie shortboard 3-fin deal. so relax on the bonzer issue. and i know how a four fin fish rides, i have two of them and they ride well. have you ever tried a four finned shortboard? different feeling.
 

JLW

Billy Hamilton status
Jul 7, 2004
1,665
62
48
For good, high quality hollow waves in the 8-12 foot range, why not try a single-fin?

I have a 7'2" x 19 1/2 x 2 5/8 single fin lightning-bolt style board for the waves you're describing. Very fast in the pocket. They hold in well in the steepest of sections, and they are probably one of the fastest fin setups when going straight down the line.