Surfing....done

ringer

Tom Curren status
Aug 2, 2002
11,353
633
113
Huntington Beach, California
I spent about 3 hours this morning surfing waist high, imperfect, glassy, fun little peaks with my two oldest friends, not another soul for miles. Then lobster rolls. Then another surf and now a half-nap in the AC looking out into the oak forest surrounding this dumpy but charming AF little air BnB suite in the woods. The world may be burning, but, even the mightiest forests need a good burn every few generations. From hardship and struggle comes innovation and dare I say it, human advancement; just wake me when the latter begins k TIA
You had me at Lobster Rolls.
 
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Reactions: Subway

hal9000

Duke status
Jan 30, 2016
56,359
16,807
113
Urbana, Illinois
I spent about 3 hours this morning surfing waist high, imperfect, glassy, fun little peaks with my two oldest friends, not another soul for miles. Then lobster rolls. Then another surf and now a half-nap in the AC looking out into the oak forest surrounding this dumpy but charming AF little air BnB suite in the woods. The world may be burning, but, even the mightiest forests need a good burn every few generations. From hardship and struggle comes innovation and dare I say it, human advancement; just wake me when the latter begins k TIA

Mega :shaka: :shaka: :shaka: for this post.

This is the correct approach, or at least ONE OF the correct approaches, to surfing and probably life in general.
 

Subway

Administrator
Staff member
Dec 31, 2008
13,539
10,208
113
LBNY
I wish more people would retreat FROM surfing. Yoga/surf retreats can fcuk right off.
I agree and I will also freely admit it’s just such a set up that may bring my wife and I into that mythical land of semi retirement in some exotic surfy yoga locale. I promise not to do any surf lessons. I would outsource those. My wife teaches the yoga. I would just surf and manage the biz and our finances etc. but there is real money to be made hosting Those things. my Wife has become an outstanding teacher, and between us we could put together a handful of high end retreats per year. Again, focus on the yoga. Not pimping the surfing. Dominical