During high school had local shaper Dave Johnson shape me a 6'6" thruster like this. Worked great on mush and barrels and easily caught waves
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Step up for large/mushy waves (north San Diego)
- Thread starter scythemk
- Start date
also FWIW my recent custom ordering experience from Arakawa was pretty awesome all around
felt up some 7’ ish f-rockets at Cardiff pataguccii.
would bang. looked great for out front.
would bang. looked great for out front.
progressive! I used to have a 6'10 for the J from him.During high school had local shaper Dave Johnson shape me a 6'6" thruster like this. Worked great on mush and barrels and easily caught waves
Yep pretty much my 6'6" was shaped and also for Santa C cess river mouth
specifically was looking for them and did not see any in the 6' range. I think the shortest I saw was 7'4... maybe a 7'2.
6'8" Huevo Ranchero Twin — FCD Surfboards
Dims: 6’8” x 20 3/4” 2 5/8” #2230051 Marko Recycled EPS Glass: Deck - 4 x 6 x 4 oz., Bottom - 4 x 4 oz. Fins: Twin, fins are included Shipping: Shipping options are presented at checkout for Surfboards for West Coast US, East Coast US, and Hawaii. We ship to both residential and busine
www.fcdsurfboards.com
just watched that last night and you're right. other than the crowd that looks so much better surf wise
Looks perfect for a mid fish or similar.
That can’t be Swamis. I watched the first 5 waves in that video and there was only one guy on each wave.
I DM'd the OP and never got a response, so I will just leave this here for him.......
Pick a board, any board.....
Pick a board, any board.....
I've heard good things, but haven't been around to try any that my friends own. Do it.
Almost pulled the trigger on a Holi Moly and have felt some up and talked to a couple people about them. A guy I surf with every now and again has one and loves it. The last time I saw him it was like head high and a little weird despite perfect conditions and he was getting wave after wave. Talking to him after the session, he said it handles as big as this beach can hold which is probably about 12' faces with fat to steep sections. Talking with shop kid he was telling me the batches they get can vary and the last batch seemed to be more tuned towards back end than previous despite same noe widths. Also mentioned he thought 6'10" - 7' was kind of the sweet spot as the board does require some input vs. the glide of say a 2+1 mid. I mentioned I thought it would be fast with quads as I love my performance egg with quads. He was not a quad guy so........ he also said he knew a few older guys that were riding them in barreling surf. Couple CI M22s have showed up locally with the stronger glass jobs that I want to check out. Still looking at phots of the 2 outlines in parallel leads me to believe the Holi Moli is slightly more tuned.
I could totes see you getting one. RV surfdawg loves his.
Derrick Disney (twinzer guy) on the first wave and at 00:48, 6:18 ?
Those look like the kind of waves I'm making the Middleman for....but that crowd
To OP- Support your local shaper (and fin foiler- Marlin Bacon)-
7'7" Derrick Disney Midzr
Derrick Disney is another one of those guys that can really do it all. From surfing to shaping to the wonderful wooden sculptures he makes, he seems to excel at it all. Growing up in San Diego, Derrick's been exposed to some of California's best surf where he's been able to dial in many of the...
daydreamsurfshop.com
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which hpsb's work in this kind of wave?
a fuller 80's modern retro foil comes to mind.
a fuller 80's modern retro foil comes to mind.