Should most of us be riding a 7'0 thruster?

Mar 13, 2019
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Foam is your friend until you're surfing steep, pitching waves and find yourself getting hung up in the lip. Then it's a liability.

I have a 6'10 thruster that does just about anything I ask of it, except when I'm in peaky or pitchy waves. Then it's either a shortboard or an embarrassment (sometimes both).
 
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Retropete

Phil Edwards status
Jan 20, 2006
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As Dick Van Straalen said to me when I was taking delivery of a custom eps/full carbon board, "When you're paddling into a wave, take an extra 2 paddles before you get to your feet." This can really help with not getting hung up in the lip with floatier boards. Takes a bit of adjustment when switching in-between boards.Then it's up to fitting it into the curve of the wave face which is another subset of potential embarassment.
 

santacruzin

Kelly Slater status
Oct 17, 2007
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As Dick Van Straalen said to me when I was taking delivery of a custom eps/full carbon board, "When you're paddling into a wave, take an extra 2 paddles before you get to your feet." This can really help with not getting hung up in the lip with floatier boards. Takes a bit of adjustment when switching in-between boards.Then it's up to fitting it into the curve of the wave face which is another subset of potential embarassment.
yup there is a balance to it all, too much of anything is a bad thing.
 

teeroi

Miki Dora status
Oct 21, 2007
5,137
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eastside oahu
Sorry for talking crap but it’s funny.

Dddean came out on a retro inspired 6’10 mid length this morning. 50/50 rails, bladey nose and tail. Single fin with side bites. He surfed horribly on it. It caught waves and rode straight fine but as soon as he tried to sink the rail. Oh no.

I told him boar design has improved greatly over the last 60 years compared to that. Rippers make it look fun but they rip on anything. I pointed to Malcolm on a modern 7’4 fun boar type thing. Said look how easy that boar is to ride even with no surfing talent Malcolm can ride it. Haha.

The lineup laughed and we came to the conclusion that surf spots weren’t crowded back in the day cause those old boars and logs were heavy and hard to ride. Surfing was a lot harder to learn.
 
Mar 13, 2019
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I need the no talent boards :roflmao:
Speaking of 'no talent boards' whatever happened to 'hybrids'? I feel like ~10-15 years ago all the hype was around hybrids like the Rusty piranha or Webber Afterburner. And now it's all midlengths or shortboards with not much in between unless it's a step-up. Are hybrids a thing of the past at this point? Or just re-branded?
 

i_ride_spinnaz

Legend (inyourownmind)
Aug 19, 2020
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For years my go to travel board was a 7’0x18 1/2x2 1/2. Did fine in waist to chest high with some push. Eventually kept ordering them more and more refined as the waves I was chasing were steeper and sitting deeper. Still worked fine in smaller surf. The length certainly paddles against current and around a lineup better than todays shorter packages, and length+narrow+thin certainly more prone to snappage.

Pulled a few out today - so bladey compared to recent norm…

View attachment 153724
How did no one comment on this Maybach flex?
 

Retropete

Phil Edwards status
Jan 20, 2006
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Speaking of 'no talent boards' whatever happened to 'hybrids'? I feel like ~10-15 years ago all the hype was around hybrids like the Rusty piranha or Webber Afterburner. And now it's all midlengths or shortboards with not much in between unless it's a step-up. Are hybrids a thing of the past at this point? Or just re-branded?
Off the top of my head: CI M23, Lost crowd killer, DHD Black diamond.
 
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Mar 13, 2019
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Off the top of my head: CI M23, Lost crowd killer, DHD Black diamond.
DH's BD seems like it fits that category. I haven't put hands on the M23 or the Mayhem, but they seem like standard mids, no? The M13 kinda held that hybrid category a bit, but the M23 looks a bit like a fattened up and beefier version of the CI Mid.

The description on the Lost site sure make the Crowd Killer sound appealing, but interesting that the 2021 updated version relaxed the tail rocker and nose flip. Makes sense of you're trying to sell it as a transition board for average surf, but I wonder how it performs in a wave with some curve to it. Almost seems to contradict the original design hype.
 

Retropete

Phil Edwards status
Jan 20, 2006
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The M23 my mate has feels much more like a hybrid under the arm and to my eye compared to a CI mid. If you want to go closer to a shortboard then: CI OG flyer.
 
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chilly1

Nep status
Jan 4, 2010
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DH's BD seems like it fits that category. I haven't put hands on the M23 or the Mayhem, but they seem like standard mids, no? The M13 kinda held that hybrid category a bit, but the M23 looks a bit like a fattened up and beefier version of the CI Mid.

The description on the Lost site sure make the Crowd Killer sound appealing, but interesting that the 2021 updated version relaxed the tail rocker and nose flip. Makes sense of you're trying to sell it as a transition board for average surf, but I wonder how it performs in a wave with some curve to it. Almost seems to contradict the original design hype.
killer is more like big guy shortboard than mid length, the updated version is round pin so which normally have less rocker due to reduced area, nose is more pulled in as well.
 
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SixtyGrit

Gerry Lopez status
Oct 3, 2015
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I think this belongs here
 
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parkiteric

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Jul 3, 2010
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Off the top of my head: CI M23, Lost crowd killer, DHD Black diamond.
FCD Huevo Ranchero. surfed it a few days ago at chest-head high Kaisers. Lots of speed/drive + very forgiving + high quality glassing. Overall, very fun
 
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