San Egan twin fin “old man board” board porn within

ULUSURFER

Gerry Lopez status
Jan 2, 2007
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My friend Phil picked this board up from Sam Egan in Newcastle. Custom large MR glass ons made by goran peko on the goldy

Dims:7’0 x 21.5 x 3

phil is a lifelong ripper, former namotu boatman, molokai to Oahu unlimited sup winner and all around eternal grommet! His stories are the stuff of legends
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The Great NEWS about this COVID-19 virus on the Gold Coast is. There’s plenty of parking at the beach & the waves aren’t crowded. Greenmount was only small 2 to 3ft dead low-tide the Greenie bank was just firing/pumping but you had to surf super fast to make the section, it was Bulk Fun. I got this one bomb from Little Marley all the way down into Greenmount I haven’t done a 360 on a wave in a few years so I thought I give one a go on this bomb raced the section came hard of the bottom into the lip & brought my board back around “I did the full roundhouse carving 360” then kept surfing the wave all the way into Greenmount. I paddle back out I see retired WCT surfer Troy Brooks we talked story for a bit, “Troys says that was a nice 360 you pull off on the last wave.” Stoked, I’m so loving my new “Old Man’s Board.”
I did a 4 hour session this morning 5:30am till 9:30am I had to come in my body was hurting got so many waves, I had to put the Gravity Boots on for 10 minutes when I got home to open all the vertebra in my spine.
In 2007 I took a month of Lifeguarding & worked at the Quiksilver PRO, this one day the Quiksilver PRO was on hold waiting for the tide to drop - I put my DaFins on & went for a Bodysurf I’m hanging off Little Marley, I see Troy Brooks take of on this Bomb Set behind the rocks at Snapper. So I’m body surfing this wave I could see Troy Brooks do these huge hacks just behind my head we both surf this wave down into Greenmount the wave finishes I look at Troy Brooks & start laughing, Troy say “I could see your head but couldn’t see your board,” hahahaha.”
 
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ULUSURFER

Gerry Lopez status
Jan 2, 2007
1,200
661
113
Australia
Visit site
This makes me stoked. What a sick board. You gotta get Phil on here to talk story.
hahahah phils days on the forums are over, here is in nias


more stories from the legend

"
How good was the last 12 days from Snapper Rocks down into Greenmount to maybe Coolangatta Beach it was just Pumping Perfection in the 3-6ft range thank you TC Gretel
I was putting in 4-6 hour session everyday, my body coped a punish I felt like Wallaby Ted’s brother Roo Ted after every session; because that little grommet inside me brain was just frothing, (telling me to go catch another wave) I’m lucky I have a chin-up bar in the backyard so I could put the Gravity Boots on to open up all the vertebra’s in my spin. Everyday I’d run into Legendary Glen Delaney we’d be out their everyday trading waves it was Bulk Fun “it’s Groundhog Day again today” Glen would say.
On the 10th day of the swell a few Pro’s where out at Snapper Rocks don’t be surprised if WA surfer Jack Robinson wins a World Title in his first year on the WSL the kid is just mind blowing, even though I have all my money on Julian Wilson."


"
BIG Thanks to Sam Egan for shaping me a “Old Man’s Board”I have been a little; I should say a lot frustrated with my short board surfing the last couple of years. My last real good short board session was on Maui 2017 I’ve always wanted to surf Honolua Bay on Maui it’s been a 40 year bucket list of mine I got Honolua Bay 6ft & Pumping it's like Angourie on steroids. I also got to surf Hookipa in the 6-10ft range you will s@#t when you get a 10ft Hawaiian wave break on your head & you will s@#t even more when your leg-rope breaks in 10ft Hookipa & your 8’2’’ surfboard is getting sucked out into the ripe heading for the lefts over a Mama’s Fish House I swam as hard as I could to retrieve my board before I ended up in the impact zone I was s@#ting “Help Me Please Mr Wizard” I bet the Lifeguards in the Tower where have a good laugh.
Anyway since Maui 2017 I’ve been riding my Longboard to much because if you surf-foil to much it will wreak your shortboard surfing up, you’ll surf worse than a beginner kook. So the longboard became my saviour - I do love riding my longboard BUT the shortboard is better.
I had a big think how can I transfer from surf-foiling to shortboard surfing ASAP as quick as f@#k. without using my Longboard as an excuse.
So my new “Old Man’s Board” was born and has solved the problem!!! just after one session on the “Old Man's Board” I’ll be able to jump on my normal thrusters and surf them with ease.
I went to Angourie Sunday night for a 3 day surf safari it was like 5ft but the wind was like onshore WTF??? I got some bombs, my new “Old Man's Board” felt good under the feet but you had to select the waves. So I said f@#k this & drove back to the Goldie, Greenmount was so good today like Pumping 3-4ft on the lower tide my new “Old Man’s Board” surfed like a dream, I got some bombs. I got this one bomb from Little Marley all the way into Greenmount beach 600m when I flicked off I had no oxygen left in the lungs I was gasping for air the “Old Man’s Board” went unreal - I was just so excited I nearly pulled my pants down and fired a rocket - I love my new “Old Man's Board” I rang Sam Egan & gave him some great feedback on my board, STOKED.
Also Big Thanks to Goran Peko for shaping me those Big MR fins it gives my "Old Man's Board" Drive.
It was great running into Nic Nevin in the surf today I have not seen her for like Bulk already this girl rips on a short board surfs better than most of the blokes in the line-up. I got to know Nic Nevin & her best friend Jackie from my Surfing Queensland days these two girls “Rock.”
One time when I was working for Surfing Queensland they had the Australian Titles down at Yorke Peninsula, South Australia 2004. I’m the Judge representing Queensland - So here comes Jackie walking down the beach, surfboard under one arm and her new born baby in the other arm sucking on her tit Jackie gives her baby to Nic Nevin Jackie paddles out surfs her heat blows her 3 competitors out of the water winning her heat, comes in grabs her baby of Nic Nevin puts the baby back on the tit & walks off the beach with her surfboard under her other arm (now that is just GOLD) Jackie is a weapon of a sheila (one word RESPECT) I just love this women. Jackies got like half a dozen children already so I'll have to say; Jackie loves rolling around in the sand."
 

ULUSURFER

Gerry Lopez status
Jan 2, 2007
1,200
661
113
Australia
Visit site
Tell him I'll take the McCabe in the corner when he gets sick of it :)
hahah that’s not his but I should have him take a photo of his 20 plus board quiver.

It includes 1970s MR twins & singles, thrusters, longboards, SUPs, standamarans, prone paddleboards,foils etc...
 
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