Little bit of leftover south swell. Waist to chest. Inconsistent but there were a few that had some push. Mostly adult learners and a few old man funboarders so got plenty of waves. Put some smaller more upright quads in the board I’ve been tolerating and it went well. Did a few decent turns off the end section.
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*** Official 2024 Community Surf Journal ***
- Thread starter b.r.
- Start date
Crowds have been ultra non competitive my last few sessions. Super odd. not complaining though.
glad (not really) to hear im not alone. water quality was excellent despite the south. that is all
Finally after about four months I ditched the hood and gloves yesterday, thanks to mundus report above. I got cold and flushed a bit but a special day nonetheless. Thanks for the heads up. Waves will likely go to crap but just putting on a wet wetsuit just go a bit quicker.
Was waist to head glassy lumpy beachbreak with adult learners bodyboarders and small group of friendly newer regulars.
Hopefully will get a few weekdays in before carnival season starts in full.
Was waist to head glassy lumpy beachbreak with adult learners bodyboarders and small group of friendly newer regulars.
Hopefully will get a few weekdays in before carnival season starts in full.
I pretty much wrote off surfing this weekend. It looked breezy and unorganized at The Beach, not quite warm enough to convince the fam to make a beach day of it (despite the sunshine), and not worth heading down the coast.
But I got a text when I was 2 beers deep at lunch with the fam that it looked doable.
I drove from the north end on the way home and there was a solid pack around 3:00 in the shorebreak.
I drove down the end of my street and there were a few doable ones and nobody out, but it was bigger and looked like much more paddling. The friend that sent a text was getting out. he and another guy said they found some ok ones so I ran out. There was a left that was consistently running off the top of a big rip current. The guys that just got out said they wern't really able to get to it and mostly surfed 2 blocks down. I got one that I did everything wrong on, then got a fun, bowly left and did a decent turn. I did the walk around to try to give myself a chance at getting out at the peak I saw from the beach but was dispatched a block and a half down before I finally just took a closeout in.
overall, I did a lot of paddling and a lot of trying to wade out to stay in position, but ultimately failed
But I got a text when I was 2 beers deep at lunch with the fam that it looked doable.
I drove from the north end on the way home and there was a solid pack around 3:00 in the shorebreak.
I drove down the end of my street and there were a few doable ones and nobody out, but it was bigger and looked like much more paddling. The friend that sent a text was getting out. he and another guy said they found some ok ones so I ran out. There was a left that was consistently running off the top of a big rip current. The guys that just got out said they wern't really able to get to it and mostly surfed 2 blocks down. I got one that I did everything wrong on, then got a fun, bowly left and did a decent turn. I did the walk around to try to give myself a chance at getting out at the peak I saw from the beach but was dispatched a block and a half down before I finally just took a closeout in.
overall, I did a lot of paddling and a lot of trying to wade out to stay in position, but ultimately failed
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Frigid wind swell slop. Looked like waist to chest high from the parking spot but ended up being bigger with tricky, lurchy take offs. Rode the Cheatcode w/ H4 trusty fins and felt undergunned. Got like two turns in my hour session.
100%
Went winging a few days ago, likely doing it again today.
Was debating the 1-1/2 hour drive north for 2-3' beach break, then saw the cams. Noop. F. Thank God for the cams, though. Done that drive too many times where I've just turned around and driven home.
may drive up to SC for the weekend.... just booked a trip to mexico too 
When I get too close to shore the Cholo struggles to keep up. I'll tell him to pay better attention.
Pretty bleak. Haven’t surfed much last 3 weeks with work and travel. Forced myself to get in the water yesterday afternoon for onshore low tide springtime slop. No one out at reef2 tells you how poor conditions were. Was pretty bumpy for the 7’0 dankness quad but was able to find some corners, connect some mushy sections, and even some short sections that stood up for speed runs.
