No Carter is a lawyer. Was a federal agent until mandatory retirement and now works for the state attorney. Right age, not sure what college he went to but Kaiser HS grad.
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***Official 2022 Community Surf Journal***
- Thread starter Kento
- Start date
Yesterday we had a guy in a fullsuit, boots and gloves with the mouth mount GoPro. It was 3/2 weather with neither boots or gloves even remotely needed. Guessing he was trying to get a jump on his cold weather footage for the Instagram in the coming months. Strangest thing.Seeing a huge uptick in the number of dudes surfing with ball gags, errr I mean go pros, in their mouths. I'm sure your footage of these head high waves is so sick brew, but I still think you're a kook
I was ripping like Yuri today on my 7'4 midlength. My head even got barreled.
First surf since ear tube surgery. Wore the surfears, hope they keep water out and infections away. Put on a bit of weight in the last 6 months, luckily all muscle - I joined a CrossFit gym while on surfing hiatus.
Waves were HH, clean but banks were pretty terrible with an outside section into dead water with the odd one linking up or running on. Rode the MOTE to cover distance and make it easy. Handled a few lateish takeoffs. Had some fun but not as surf fit as I need to be. Good to be back out there.
Waves were HH, clean but banks were pretty terrible with an outside section into dead water with the odd one linking up or running on. Rode the MOTE to cover distance and make it easy. Handled a few lateish takeoffs. Had some fun but not as surf fit as I need to be. Good to be back out there.
Visited the local swell magnet today, a spot I affectionately call the bone doctor. It was maximum reckless. Barely enough tide on the reef, oh to 1.5 oh slabs breaking in 5 foot of water and completely fucking blown out. No sets, it was an incessant onslaught of waves. I'm not a timid surfer but I was seriously considering going in after 15 minutes.
About 12 guys out, a few pro surfers and their friends. I was the worst surfer by a country mile. These guys were operating on a whole different level. They could see waves forming, understood the dynamics of what was happening on a level I couldn't even grasp. One of them did a full on fucking backflip and at that point I decided it was time to just go in.
About 12 guys out, a few pro surfers and their friends. I was the worst surfer by a country mile. These guys were operating on a whole different level. They could see waves forming, understood the dynamics of what was happening on a level I couldn't even grasp. One of them did a full on fucking backflip and at that point I decided it was time to just go in.
I think that these people spend so much time thinking about their sweet footage that they've forgotten to think about the actual surfing.
They love doing their Nathan Florence cosplay, minus the competence
Surfed the town regular on Saturday and the NS regular on Sunday. HH on the sets with town being really clean but lully and the NS crossed up with a mix of two swells. Both days were fun. NS was a lot better in the water than it looked. Double ups, some with roll ins some dredgers. Didn’t have any pop up drama until the end of the sessions when I tire.
Had to hurdle a teenage girl in town. Saw her when I took off and got a pump in and could of easily high lined her but she kept paddling up the face of the wave. Jumped over her and somehow our boars didn’t hit. Came up and yelled WTF and she immediately said sorry. After calming down I felt bad and told her what she did wrong. She looked like she was about to cry. Minutes later she got in Keoni’s way and he lost his boar. He couldn’t scold her after teasing me for my outburst. Luckily she went in. It amazes me that beginners will come out to Bowls on a HH day or bigger and be totally clueless.
Had to hurdle a teenage girl in town. Saw her when I took off and got a pump in and could of easily high lined her but she kept paddling up the face of the wave. Jumped over her and somehow our boars didn’t hit. Came up and yelled WTF and she immediately said sorry. After calming down I felt bad and told her what she did wrong. She looked like she was about to cry. Minutes later she got in Keoni’s way and he lost his boar. He couldn’t scold her after teasing me for my outburst. Luckily she went in. It amazes me that beginners will come out to Bowls on a HH day or bigger and be totally clueless.
Man. I wrote off the weekend for Daddy Duty and made the mistake of riding my bike with my 4 year old past the beach and up to Sutro Park overlook, on the way to GG park playground. The South end in front of the house looked as expected. Rideable, but slow and mushy. But from 4-sunset, midbeach to the North end looked so damn fun. The not so secret Safeway bar had 10-12 guys and looked really fun and I saw one of the old crusty locdogs from around the corner clock a little tube at Kellys from up above.
The sun even came out!
Blew it. Going to pray for evening glass offs now
The sun even came out!
Blew it. Going to pray for evening glass offs now
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Bob, it's been fun the past two days. Sand bars are good and south swell is delivering some fun-sized set waves.
I took the Plasmic out today amid a sea of longboarders. Wanted to remember what it was like to pump a board and maybe even do a turn. Ended up getting my first little snap in 5 months. Stocked.
I took the Plasmic out today amid a sea of longboarders. Wanted to remember what it was like to pump a board and maybe even do a turn. Ended up getting my first little snap in 5 months. Stocked.
Today was gorgeous. Longboarders were getting some really nice ones. That SMB would have been 
today. Sorry, just had to rub it in a little more.
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fark waves have been horrendous in the past two weeks. made myself paddle at a barely breaking reef. lucked out on two that allowed decent turns on the spark plug. felt good to get a rinse.
Yeah, that's about what it looked like.
Walked out to my car this morning and the first offshore wind of the season hit me. I thought it would never happen
tiny desperation lefthanded peelers at a lil rock jetty on the moonstone. air and water feel crisp like fall. broke out the 3/2 and was comfortable to mildly warm. we need real waves
What’re the water temps like in central SD? I think my shoulder has finally recovered and it’s time to test it out.
Probably 65-66 at your zone and 67-69 in LJ.
Boat read 66 at Mission Bay channel entrance last Friday.
edit: that was a boat flex
Boat read 66 at Mission Bay channel entrance last Friday.
edit: that was a boat flex
Past two weeks?
Try past months.
Sand has been pretty bad everywhere, crappy period and directions too, and not enough energy to make most of the reefs any good.
season opener at the kelpy reef. my knee was feeling decent so I braced up and took the plasmid out. t-knox twins. overhead sets. sort of shifty but plenty of fun, lined up waves. a little wind but the kelp kept the lineup's surface pretty glassy. never in my life seen as much kelp as there is there right now. the best part of the wave is still fairly clear but the inside section is plugged. hit a few chunky heads but no damage to fins or board. good vibes with just a few locs out. plasmid felt perfectly suited to the mushy walls.