FxdI am pretty sure thats If it was [USER=50316]@Havoc trunks with pockets would be worn on outside of springsuit
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***Official 2022 Community Surf Journal***
- Thread starter Kento
- Start date
Dawned regular with the 5’10 Tokoro 4X again. Waves in the couple feet overhead range. Started out real south which isn’t ideal for Big Bowl. But there were some sets with a little west. Just barrel hunting all morning. Got a quick coverup and last wave got a quick cover and backdoored the end section. Found it on the rewind cam and it didn’t look as good as it felt.
Neal was out shooting. Got a couple of tubes to clamp in front of him. Got a nugget and went for the stand up barrel pose and got lipped on the head and pearled right by Neal. Popped up and asked if he was ok. Neal said yeah. Told him I was trying to get too fancy.
After getting hit by the lip paddled over to Middles to hit a lip back. Got a nice open one and hit the lip twice and took a bunch of closeouts on the head. Paddled back to the Bowl and got the tube to go in.
Last few days have been really fun.
Neal was out shooting. Got a couple of tubes to clamp in front of him. Got a nugget and went for the stand up barrel pose and got lipped on the head and pearled right by Neal. Popped up and asked if he was ok. Neal said yeah. Told him I was trying to get too fancy.
After getting hit by the lip paddled over to Middles to hit a lip back. Got a nice open one and hit the lip twice and took a bunch of closeouts on the head. Paddled back to the Bowl and got the tube to go in.
Last few days have been really fun.
It’s just the next phase of our evolution. First the kook hat, then the spring booties.
Back in the water after a little over a week off for a trip out of town. If I had surfed more recently I wouldn‘t have bothered but it was Pretty bleak conditions with occasional walled sets. Despite that I was stoked to be back in the water. Three waves and I called it before I ran out of stoke.
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geezus duus. i wore regular booties today. water was 60 this morning during dp. couple guys had hooded fullsuits on lol. this aint south sd.
But were you sporting sunnies?
i am looking forward to the return of surf accessories.
need to dig up my webbed globes from my parents shed.
Not gonna lie, I would love some surf shades but at this time, the shame is too high. I wear sun glasses any other time I'm outside so it feels so wrong to expose my soi boi WFH adult learner eyes to all that sun, ya know?
Late post but last weekend a certain reef point at very low tide sucked up pretty nicely, not barrels but kind of airdrops too down the line burners. Took out a new board for the second time, Cannard quad fish with wooden glass ons. Airdropping down with the lip to instant rocket speed down the line was so much fun, kind of a belly (hull?) upfront, not sure about the rest probably some double concave to V out The tail. Was super Duper stoked, with low crowds and a lot of waves just flying down the line, put in 2, 3 1/2 hour DPs. Could not get a smooth turn going on that thing which is a little frustrating (not for lack of trying), because with all that speed there were some nice carve opportunities gone begging so I ended up just going with the flow down the line which kind of worked out well as I scored way more waves than my average so was pretty bushed at the tail ends of the seshes.
All in all a stand-out summer weekend!
All in all a stand-out summer weekend!
First surf in a while. The wind was up early and I had very low expectations but I went out to look anyways. I headed to an exposed beachbreak up North with the hope of finding some windswell peaks. I was pleasantly surprised by what I saw when I pulled up to the spot with my buddy. Didn't sit and watch it just suited up. Rode the Disco Cheater w/ Fanning twin/trailer for the first time and it felt just about perfect once I was actually able to figure out the bar and chip into a few. The waves were chest high or so on the sets with decently steep faces. Mostly rights but my best wave was probably a chunky left that allowed for a good slash. It's hard to overstate how great it felt to surf again. Just myself and my good friend paddling in circles chasing peaks for about two hours. I feel pretty out of paddling shape and my cardio is not great but otherwise I felt pretty good on my feet. Hoping for more of the same tomorrow.
Still on the smaller side today but significantly warmer water. Got a couple fun tiny ones on the plasmic.
Dawned the regular. Still solid with some slightly OH sets. Rode the 4X again. Today was the worst day of the swell. South-southeast direction so lot of waves were breaking out to sea. With the strong easterly trades there was a bump on the waves too.
Got a couple of fun ones though. Got a really long one from Middles to the shallow reef by the channel. For some reason I heard in my head finish strong so I hit the closeout and rode out. Then proceeded to get ten or so waist high top to bottom closeouts on the head. That spot on the reef the waves converge and it’s way more powerful for its size than it looks. Don’t know if the beating was worth it. Haha.
We’re working by Racer’s spots and it’s pumping with the incoming tide and a swell direction it favors.
Got a couple of fun ones though. Got a really long one from Middles to the shallow reef by the channel. For some reason I heard in my head finish strong so I hit the closeout and rode out. Then proceeded to get ten or so waist high top to bottom closeouts on the head. That spot on the reef the waves converge and it’s way more powerful for its size than it looks. Don’t know if the beating was worth it. Haha.
We’re working by Racer’s spots and it’s pumping with the incoming tide and a swell direction it favors.
Tried t knox twins in my spark plug. At first felt a little stiff and drivey but ended up kinda liking them. They make the board feel pretty thruster like and could possibly take the place of EN's in that board when I need more hold.
Few fun ones but lot's of sitting. Had a @Tanner spotting too.
Few fun ones but lot's of sitting. Had a @Tanner spotting too.
T knox felt stiffer than EN's?
No surfing for me today. Other things got in the way. Forecast looks pretty dismal so who knows when my next chance will be. On the plus side the knee feels no worse for yesterdays session.
Water warmed up and I surfed 2 hours on the Kenson pleasure pig. Lulls, but sets were super fun and got tons of waves.
A few fun lefts but would be cool if the wind would take a vacation
anybody else noticing all the groups of 3 surfers that sit together in the lineup like its the new trend?
anybody else noticing all the groups of 3 surfers that sit together in the lineup like its the new trend?
Wife took the day off work for an impromptu beach day with the kids. Sadly, it’s Lake Pacific out here.
5’4 foamie finally getting some use on family beach days, which is what I intended when i got it 50% off sale a couple yrs ago… and then have only used it 3x since. Embraced my inner kook: I wore a hat, no leash. Quasi-finless / pseudo-boogie boar…
5’4 foamie finally getting some use on family beach days, which is what I intended when i got it 50% off sale a couple yrs ago… and then have only used it 3x since. Embraced my inner kook: I wore a hat, no leash. Quasi-finless / pseudo-boogie boar…
Practically flat today. spinners mo fun without. I got a white plastic quad set for it too. Could try the rears as fronts some time
Not stiffer at all, but nearly the same as the ones Tim modified for me. So I'd still put stick EN's as stiffer than t Knox fins.