Mines One ;-)

griffinsurfboard

Duke status
Oct 31, 2004
25,653
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Palm Coast , Florida
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Why not 6 fins?
Can be

If you look at the foil you will notice its very thinned out in the nose with rocker
The current trend is flat with extra foam forward .
I add a slight bit of more rocker + less foam so the board does not resist being pushed down the face and is out of the way in smaller surf
Flat and thick make it more work to get in and ride longer
 

caramel_Sea

Michael Peterson status
May 29, 2008
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love your thinner nose and nose rocker concepts
I have been implementing similar or slightly less nose rocker 12" from tip with less nose flip and working really well
 
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One-Off

Tom Curren status
Jul 28, 2005
14,265
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33.8N - 118.4W
Can be

If you look at the foil you will notice its very thinned out in the nose with rocker
The current trend is flat with extra foam forward .
I add a slight bit of more rocker + less foam so the board does not resist being pushed down the face and is out of the way in smaller surf
Flat and thick make it more work to get in and ride longer
Yeah. I never understood what good extra foam does in the first 12-18 inches of a board. It does not add to paddle power, makes it hard to duck dive.
 

silentbutdeadly

Duke status
Sep 26, 2005
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Tower 13
Yeah. I never understood what good extra foam does in the first 12-18 inches of a board. It does not add to paddle power, makes it hard to duck dive.
If your board is really short you need it so you can move up and plane better paddling. But you lose the ability to do what greg is talking about above. I think he can get away with it easily since he has 8 foot of board as a backing. On a smaller board (sub 6ft you will haev different results unless you keep the changes very minimal.

What I do notice is that if the waves are fat and slow, the extra volume in the nose helps but if they're small and punchy/steeper it's actually easier getting in the wave on a lower volume board with more rocker than the fat ones that will just hang you in the lip.

Either way it would be really sick to feel something while surfing, then implement the change you want when making yourself a board.
 
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