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Legendary Surfers -- Reposts

sponge

sponge

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I've been putting up some posts on Facebooks Legendary Surfers. Nothing I haven't put up here before, but thought it was worth reposting.

Rabbit Kekai poster. Got to know Rabbit when I helped out at amateur and pro surfing contests. He had lots of tall tales and dirty jokes to share. Loved to compete and entered contests well into his 60s. When kids used to pester him about their heats, he used to yell at them, "Eh, go play on the freeway!" In 2014 he entered a hospice, so I made this poster for him from pictures I'd taken through the decades. Honored that the family kept the poster with him to the end. Rabbit passed on May 13, 2016 at 95. Aloha Rabbit!

Rabbit_poster_12x18_s.jpg
 
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sickdog

Legend (inyourownmind)
Aug 5, 2006
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The Help Pat Curren thread got long, so here is another legend feature.

PAT CURREN: King of The Bay

PAT CURREN, King of The Bay By Malcolm Gault-Williams Updated: July 2011 “I think the best period for surfing ...
www.legendarysurfers.com www.legendarysurfers.com

I enjoyed it.
 
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sponge

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Randy Rarick and Sunny Garcia during their induction into the Hawaii Sports Hall of Fame, Honolulu International Country Club, 5/5/2015. I was trying to get some emotion on this shot so I told Randy, "Give me your look when Sunny comes running up to you late for his heat." This is what I got.

150505_08.jpg
 
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Beerbelly

Michael Peterson status
May 14, 2010
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Coolest was Bob Mctavish. Just your normal Aussie. Made him a couple big Martinis and talked story. Both of us know Gene Hall. Seems they both claim to have introduced Mexican food to Australia.
 
PPK96754

PPK96754

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Kauai's north shore ~
Gene's son Aaron, and his wife lives a few doors down from me. Gene and his wife live a block over.
Drove my 40 Ford coupe from Venice to Santa Cruz with another Hawaiian friend, Vernon Keawe. Gene opened the gates for the two of us. We had a good time in Santa Cruz. 45 years later, I'm standing on the Hanalei Pier watching the surf. Guy walks up, asks if I'm PPK and I nod and Gene introduces himself. Cracked me the phugg-up. Shapes his own boards and rides them at the Bay. Summer time flatness, Gene's out on his windsurfer. Same for his son. Not sure about Gene's claim to Mexican food but he had a pizza parlor joint in Margaret River for years I believe.

Mctavish ~ 1999 Greg Noll's Surf Legends at Noosa Head, Australia
Greg brings a big crew from California and Hawaii. Beach ceremonies, Clubs and folks from California and Hawaii are introduced at this Aussie Surf Club on the beach. On shore winds, surf 2 to 3 feet.
"The call" is to get folks in the ocean grab a few waves, get some press photos. Group circle jerk, guys yapping. We paddle up to a group and introductions going around, gets to me, I nod, "PPK, from Hawaii'' and this guy on the other side of this loose circle say's, " I know you mate. Your house was down from ours. You were the junior men's winner with our mate, Midget, won the seniors mens at Makaha. 35 phuggin years, since I've seen Mctavish and he paddles over and shakes my hand. "Nice to see ya mate. Are you having a good time?" My street creds went up a few notches from his kind words. We were living in a little 2b 1ba summer cottage right in front of Pipeline and the Aussie crew was down about 7 houses from ours on the north shore of Oahu. January, 1963.
Aussie! Aussie! Aussie! Great hosts ~
 
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ElOgro

ElOgro

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PPK96754 said:
Gene's son Aaron, and his wife lives a few doors down from me. Gene and his wife live a block over.
Drove my 40 Ford coupe from Venice to Santa Cruz with another Hawaiian friend, Vernon Keawe. Gene opened the gates for the two of us. We had a good time in Santa Cruz. 45 years later, I'm standing on the Hanalei Pier watching the surf. Guy walks up, asks if I'm PPK and I nod and Gene introduces himself. Cracked me the phugg-up. Shapes his own boards and rides them at the Bay. Summer time flatness, Gene's out on his windsurfer. Same for his son. Not sure about Gene's claim to Mexican food but he had a pizza parlor joint in Margaret River for years I believe.

Mctavish ~ 1999 Greg Noll's Legends at Noosa Head, Australia
Greg brings a big crew from California and Hawaii. Beach ceremonies, Clubs and folks from California and Hawaii are introduced at this Aussie Surf Club on the beach. On shore winds, surf 2 to 3 feet.
"The call" is to get folks in the ocean grab a few waves, get some press photos. Group circle jerk, guys yapping. We paddle up to a group and introductions going around, gets to me, I nod, "PPK, from Hawaii'' and this guy on the other side or this loose circle say's, " I know you mate. Your house was down from ours. You were the junior men's winner with our mate, Midget, won the seniors mens at Makaha. 35 phuggin years, since I've seen Mctavish and he paddles over and shakes my hand. "Nice to see ya mate. Are you having a good time?" My street creds went up a few notches from his kind words. We were living in a little 2b 1ba summer cottage right in front of Pipeline and the Aussie crew was down about 7 houses from ours on the north shore of Oahu. January, 1963.
Aussie! Aussie! Aussie! Great hosts ~
Click to expand...
6547AC28-B91D-49B4-8880-620C7E832E3A.jpeg
Worth the read.
 
B

Beerbelly

Michael Peterson status
May 14, 2010
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Yeah PPK! Met Aaron when he came over with his pops to Tom Hickenbottom’s bachelor party and wedding. We were both around 16. Cool dude.
 
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PPK96754

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Kauai's north shore ~
ElOgro said:
View attachment 96598
Worth the read.
Click to expand...
That's the turn around at T-Tree's to unload your boards and Noosa. You can take the walkway just off to the right of photo and maybe walk out another half mile and hit up 3 more point breaks from there. To the left of the photo, the beach rolls down along an incredible long, white sandy beach with some of the most Fun longboard waves that I've ever ridden. The Aussie hospitality was superb.
 
ElOgro

ElOgro

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His first round trip to Hawaii was as a stowaway on a ship with the return flight free after being deported. There are some crazy stories in the book. Plenty of road trips.
 
sponge

sponge

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Bill Andrews (1944-2017), WindanSea, taken a while ago. Met him on the alt.surfing newsgroup in the 90s. He's one of the funniest guys I have ever known, always ready with humorous stories. Whenever I went to San Diego he'd always offer a board to use. Such a good person. La Jolla legend. Throughout his life he did go through lots of physical trauma including broken bones, cancer, and ultimately ALS. In the end he went out on his own terms. Would have been his 76th birthday a few days ago. Love you brother.

_08_Bill_lineup_900x600.jpg

Bill_Poster_170918_s.jpg
 
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sponge

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Kelly Slater and his #1 Fan, 2011 Pipe Masters, 12/10/11. After Kelly's loss in the semi's he graciously signed a few autographs, then took a break and talked story with some friends in the spare board tent. This kid who apparently was hoping to meet him yelled out in a semi-slurred pre-schooler voice, "Kelly Slater, could you sign my arm?... please!" Being the great guy that he is, the 11-time world champ walked over, signed his arm, then "pounded fists" with him. GOAT!

111210_Kelly_signature.jpg
 
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Legends past, present and future salute the photog. Michael Ho, along with Nathan, Herbie, Christian, and Greyson Fletcher; Surfer Poll 2011; Turtle Bay Resort; 12/6/2011.

111206_37.jpg
 
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