...and some of the “normals” as well!
this place was pretty reliable for a few/many laughs (and some solid info too...) over the years.
the eulogies here for the mag (& it used to be great!), and the mentions of the big soggy mess* that a lot of the “surf experience” has become, made me think of something christopher hitchens (rip) wrote a ways back.
he was railing on in a mag about something (maybe xenophobia? or price gouging for top quality gin?), i’ve forgotten.
but the bit i remember was at the end of the piece, he wrote, that the biggest “lie” that “they“ would ever tell you was that “you will be overrun”.
if you live in hawaii, if you live in ca., if you live at the beach, if you’ve been surfing for 10, 20, 30 years, wasn’t he absolutely full of sh*t? or just wrong.
kudos to the ones that pull off an escape!
* miki dora’s description, from a long time ago...
this place was pretty reliable for a few/many laughs (and some solid info too...) over the years.
the eulogies here for the mag (& it used to be great!), and the mentions of the big soggy mess* that a lot of the “surf experience” has become, made me think of something christopher hitchens (rip) wrote a ways back.
he was railing on in a mag about something (maybe xenophobia? or price gouging for top quality gin?), i’ve forgotten.
but the bit i remember was at the end of the piece, he wrote, that the biggest “lie” that “they“ would ever tell you was that “you will be overrun”.
if you live in hawaii, if you live in ca., if you live at the beach, if you’ve been surfing for 10, 20, 30 years, wasn’t he absolutely full of sh*t? or just wrong.
kudos to the ones that pull off an escape!
* miki dora’s description, from a long time ago...