I wish I could be there for swell. Feel like I miss out on life.
Monster barrel at 2.35
Monster barrel at 2.35
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Huge Ulu
- Thread starter QuadFin
- Start date
how epic that Felipe Pomar was out there at 66!! not sure what day though.
"When I arrived there where 2 surfers in the water. By the time I paddled out they were gone. I surfed alone for 2 hours. When I walked back up through the cave the Balinese clapped and cheered! To make it better, when I had walked down the stairs, at age 66, with my old style board, they had looked at me funny, like what is this guy thinking ? "
.
"When I arrived there where 2 surfers in the water. By the time I paddled out they were gone. I surfed alone for 2 hours. When I walked back up through the cave the Balinese clapped and cheered! To make it better, when I had walked down the stairs, at age 66, with my old style board, they had looked at me funny, like what is this guy thinking ? "
.