Entire west coast about to get some action

Lance Mannion

Duke status
Mar 7, 2009
26,592
2,439
113
In Gods Country
I'd like to hear what he had to say about paddling back out after that wave. If that's where I think it is, there's nothing resembling a channel where he's going!
 
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StuAzole

Duke status
Jan 22, 2016
28,670
9,923
113
Exactly! Now that that’s cleared up where did you surf today? What board? Any pictures?
oside pier. 6’2” lost step driver. No pics. Almost as fun as sitting on the porch.

 
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encladd

Legend (inyourownmind)
Oct 8, 2019
362
530
93
Watched the O'side harbor cam just before sunset and into dark. Sets were breaking WAY outside the harbor breakwater entrance. The recent dredge took out the channel sand, so most waves backed off there. But there's still a bar just outside the end of the breakwater and waves breaking many yards out past the end before hitting the end rocks. That's a sign of a very big swell there (10-15 ft)
Say goodbye to the sand at the harbor.
IMG_5285.jpeg
 

casa_mugrienta

Duke status
Apr 13, 2008
43,833
18,402
113
Petak Island
That place is hard to surf.
When the swell is coming from the right direction it can be pretty perfect for a goofy. I will never touch it on those days. My backside tube skills/balls are not up to snuff for how bowly and pitchy it can get. But most days, yeah.

Have seen Chris Ward and Damien H out there alone on really hairy winter days, fearless. A snapped leash on a those days can mean you might need a rescue if the current is moving south fast enough. Have seen it happen x 1 and heard it has happened enough times before..
 
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sh3

Michael Peterson status
Dec 1, 2008
2,548
3,414
113
I had a quick back-and-forth with Mike Parsons today. And asked him if anybody he knew of went out to Cortes bank. He said he had not heard of anyone going, but yesterday might’ve been the best day there ever. If a tree falls in the forest!
❤❤❤
 

flyinraptr

Michael Peterson status
Dec 18, 2008
2,850
1,537
113
San Juan del Sur, Nicaragua
I keep seeing all these social media headlines ..... Giant surf ... Historic surf .... 20'-30' ... etc etc. But when watching the video clips the best i've seen appears to be solid 6' (Hawaiian) at best. Has it been so long that everyone in SoCal has forgotten what real waves look like? The video clips from the swell that hit New Jersey look way more intense. Just sayin!
 
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stringcheese

Miki Dora status
Jun 21, 2017
4,073
3,909
113
I keep seeing all these social media headlines ..... Giant surf ... Historic surf .... 20'-30' ... etc etc. But when watching the video clips the best i've seen appears to be solid 6' (Hawaiian) at best. Has it been so long that everyone in SoCal has forgotten what real waves look like? The video clips from the swell that hit New Jersey look way more intense. Just sayin!
There are people on here in SD who surf blacks bigger than the clips. Our OBSF guys wouldn’t even ride anything bigger than an 11’6 out there