Entire west coast about to get some action

grg

Phil Edwards status
Mar 11, 2006
5,912
1,230
113
Tuna Town/Baja
:roflmao:

I never surfed there with more than the guys I went with. The road was challenging. Things change.
Many good nights camping there and scoring back in the day. Before people went there on boats. Had some scary moments exiting the water when it was so fogged in you couldn't see anything and just getting worked on the rocks
 
  • Like
Reactions: npsp and keenfish

Bayview

Billy Hamilton status
Dec 21, 2009
1,698
1,130
113
NJ

doc_flavonoid

Michael Peterson status
Dec 27, 2019
1,804
3,331
113
Are you not entertained?!

That inside section is deadly on super big days.

was going to say all the socal vids been making my eyes hurt. just so many dudes down there with straight up bad big board style. call it bitterness over the north coast projectile vomiting all over itself with every xxl swell, but the eye test don't lie and the video evidence is ugly.

and yes btw i was amused. sort of surprised no one was making an attempt to paddle it
 

PRCD

Tom Curren status
Feb 25, 2020
12,863
8,908
113
was going to say all the socal vids been making my eyes hurt. just so many dudes down there with straight up bad big board style. call it bitterness over the north coast projectile vomiting all over itself with every xxl swell, but the eye test don't lie and the video evidence is ugly.

and yes btw i was amused. sort of surprised no one was making an attempt to paddle it
watching video of SoCal boys in bigger surf makes John John's carves on big walls that much more impressive.
 

Surfdog

Duke status
Apr 22, 2001
21,817
2,033
113
South coast OR
I have. I’m guessing most So Cal people on this board have.

Is this where you break out your “back in the good ol days” stuff to show Surfdog he was wrong about the swell direction quip?

Did you surf today?
What?

You do know the outer waters buoys/charts showed this swell no less than 280, which is pretty close to straight west, but not quite. The size and period is what enabled it to power in to many more south facing spots than typical.

Show your sources, if I'm wrong. Gladly want to see otherwise.
 
  • Like
Reactions: trevorbc

Surfdog

Duke status
Apr 22, 2001
21,817
2,033
113
South coast OR
Shot this one today........... :cheers:


That's like my favorite size/condition for that spot. 2x-3x o'head with maybe some pluses to keep you on your toes. When it gets 4x +, it gets a bit hectic dodging clean-ups.

Looks like the nasty out to sea rips have been kept to a minimum this swell? Must be the more west direction? NWer's move a lot of water down the beach and up from the canyon corner making for a lot of rips.