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Dave Parmenter on California waves, Australian waves, and localism
- Thread starter casa_mugrienta
- Start date
"Cayucos, bar none, the close out capital of the world"
Finally, someone who feels my pain
I've never been able to wrap my mind around how an east facing coast like OZ has such good waves while most of them tend to suck. Must be topography?
Finally, someone who feels my pain
I've never been able to wrap my mind around how an east facing coast like OZ has such good waves while most of them tend to suck. Must be topography?
I can think of at least 4 waves in that area that are most definitely not closeouts."Cayucos, bar none, the close out capital of the world"
Finally, someone who feels my pain
Wait, no I take that back. All of them are closeouts. Yep, definitely closeouts.
No, wide open swell window."Cayucos, bar none, the close out capital of the world"
Finally, someone who feels my pain
I've never been able to wrap my mind around how an east facing coast like OZ has such good waves while most of them tend to suck. Must be topography?
We get refracted S'ly groundswells, SE tradewind swells, short range S'ly swells from cold fronts, SE windswells from High pressure surges, NE cyclone swells, NE windswells, large E/SE swells from Tasman Sea lows, distant E'ly groundswells from South Pac.
It's an incredibly active swell window for a lee shore.
And there are a sh!t ton of spots, some of them world class. Most of them with steep cupped faces.
There's also a semi-unique sand transport system related to Pleistocene sea levels.
OZ also has Southern and Indian Ocean facing coastlines- which are bombarded with swells.
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For sure- those make sense
I imagine that your setups on the east coast are more well suited to shorter period swells? I've noticed that east facing coasts in general tend to make better use of this type of swell than west facing coasts.
aus has lots of good waves
ca has very few, and cant handle crowds
hence localism was big, until the kooks outnumbered the locals
now its a free for all
personally i'd rather have the localism and uncrowded surf
ca has very few, and cant handle crowds
hence localism was big, until the kooks outnumbered the locals
now its a free for all
personally i'd rather have the localism and uncrowded surf
Also you guys seem to have plenty more nooks and crannies to hold sand while most of the USA has wide open beaches.
Yes and no.For sure- those make sense
I imagine that your setups on the east coast are more well suited to shorter period swells? I've noticed that east facing coasts in general tend to make better use of this type of swell than west facing coasts.
There are a lot of deepwater reefs and slab type waves everywhere that will handle and focus long period swells.
People don't realise how much long period swell travels up the Tasman Sea pipe- until they go to Fiji.
There's a secret spot an hr from me, deepwater reef, that looks like Teahupoo- never been published in media.
The local boys control every vessel movement to it- strictly no cameras.
But I need to shut my fcuking mouth, I've already said too much.
And Parmenter, God bless him, is romanticising the fcuk out of Aus.
Localism here every bit as virulent as California in the 70's.
Localism here every bit as virulent as California in the 70's.
Anybody who moves to central CA thinking they will get endless days of good uncrowded surf is gonna be in for a humongous letdown.I can think of at least 4 waves in that area that are most definitely not closeouts.
Wait, no I take that back. All of them are closeouts. Yep, definitely closeouts.
It's like the people who move to Santa Barbara thinking they will get day after day of uncrowded perfect right point breaks. Or people who move to Oahu thinking they'll just paddle out at Pipeline and start snagging set waves.
Haha joke's on you, dumbasses.
A local lineup nuisance left for Santa Barbara during covid times for better waves. We rejoiced! He came back a year later...way more surf in New York lol.
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While admittdely I have limited knowledge of the zone, I take issue with the author claiming Cayucos as the closeout capital of the world. Instead I will nominate Linda Mar as closeout capital of the world! All hail Linda Mar!
South bay beaches in the running for the title....west swell single wave closeouts from el porto to rat
Is this the same Santa Barbara where "most competent surfers...ride the highest of high performance boards all the time" ?
You must've missed this thread
Beau Foster makes the most beautiful surfboards
Red with white rails looks like my dealio. Love the looks of his boards and they would surf just fine this end of the world. I have seen this shape IRL and in action under the feet of the shaper and can tell you there are way better choices. The board wants point surf and very little input...
forum.surfer.com
El Porto is definitely in the running. I can't speak for the rest of the south bay. Linda Mar however has the uncanny ability to close out at any size, any swell direction, tide..you name it. In fact if a wave at that beach closed out and nobody was there to see it..did it really close out? The answer..YES..because there will always, always, always be somebody in the water at Linda Mar. It's quite impressive actually.
bathymetry bruh"Cayucos, bar none, the close out capital of the world"
Finally, someone who feels my pain
I've never been able to wrap my mind around how an east facing coast like OZ has such good waves while most of them tend to suck. Must be topography?