What's you'r preferred method?
Last winter, when it got big I remember ditching my board. I was thinking of what a friend who surfs OBSF told me, "At a certain size you can't hold on." For me it was at that size. So I ditched and came up pretty easily. Did it again. no problem. Well, that works. Then (the third time's a charm) do it again and I got held down for a long, long time. Fuk.
So the next set I turtled ( I was on a 8-3 at a deep water wave), wrapped my arms and legs around the board. I got bounced around a bit but popped up pretty quick. Well that works. I'll do that. Then the next time, same procedure and I just get rolled, over and over and it wouldn't let go, until finally I panicked, pushed the board away and started stroking for the surface.
This past week at the beach a big set came. The first one was sucking out and going to land on my head. The last two boards I've snapped have been this exact scenario- trying to duck right under a big lip. So this time I push the board away from the lip and curl up. I get held down a long, long time and finally did the four strokes to get to the surface routine. Fuk.
The next one's coming but is smaller and frothy so I duck dive it. I get tossled a bit and pushed down. At a certain point it seems to let up and I'm waiting for the board to carry me to the surface, but it just stays down there, submerged. What the fuk? Finally, it really slowly rose to the surface. It was really weird how it just stayed down there. I've never experienced that before. Maybe there were swirls and currents above me I was not aware of, still pushing me down, even though where I was it felt calm.
Everytime I come up I say, "Fuk! Yeah! Winter!"
Last winter, when it got big I remember ditching my board. I was thinking of what a friend who surfs OBSF told me, "At a certain size you can't hold on." For me it was at that size. So I ditched and came up pretty easily. Did it again. no problem. Well, that works. Then (the third time's a charm) do it again and I got held down for a long, long time. Fuk.
So the next set I turtled ( I was on a 8-3 at a deep water wave), wrapped my arms and legs around the board. I got bounced around a bit but popped up pretty quick. Well that works. I'll do that. Then the next time, same procedure and I just get rolled, over and over and it wouldn't let go, until finally I panicked, pushed the board away and started stroking for the surface.
This past week at the beach a big set came. The first one was sucking out and going to land on my head. The last two boards I've snapped have been this exact scenario- trying to duck right under a big lip. So this time I push the board away from the lip and curl up. I get held down a long, long time and finally did the four strokes to get to the surface routine. Fuk.
The next one's coming but is smaller and frothy so I duck dive it. I get tossled a bit and pushed down. At a certain point it seems to let up and I'm waiting for the board to carry me to the surface, but it just stays down there, submerged. What the fuk? Finally, it really slowly rose to the surface. It was really weird how it just stayed down there. I've never experienced that before. Maybe there were swirls and currents above me I was not aware of, still pushing me down, even though where I was it felt calm.
Everytime I come up I say, "Fuk! Yeah! Winter!"