I’ve been unwell the last 24 hours. As I’ve shared. But I snagged a few out of the pack at lido Escondido just now (manbearpig was that you in the suburban? There was a guy wearing a tree service company t shirt) and got a few fun ones at sunrise This morning somewhere between home and lido . while I am trying to steer myself away from my dependence on surfing as a cure all for everything that ails my aching mind, it was still a lot of fun to pull into closeouts, Get pitched, and even made a couple of clean exits. also vainly satisfying to realize none of the regulars (and sometimes obnoxious regulators) at Lido even recognize me after all the weight I’ve shed since last fall. Unsound crew, flip, etc. they didn’t drop in but I got plenty of side eye for staking a claim on the peak despite not appearing to be a local. I got about 6 waves in an hour, even made a couple lol. This morning was probably the better session. Unmarked stretch of beach, nobody for at least 100 yards in either direction, made a looong left hand barrel all the way to the end section and got that coveted fist pump from some non surfing couple walking the beach enjoying the sunrise. i was also pleased to learn that mrs subway GOT the insurance on our latest phones, because I totaled mine last night when it somehow flew from my hand into the wall with surprising velocity.
oh, after I surfaced from a closeout my board was still airborne and despite covering my head, it managed to land on the left side of my head and put a nice dent in my skull, but luckily did not break the skin (cold wet scalps bleed like a MFer, I know from experience )