Good thing about most beach breaks is you end up on shore pretty quick while getiting worked. My worst beating yet also my best barreling beach break took place at pascuales during my prime
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Blacks
- Thread starter bluengreen
- Start date
Pool workouts usually 3000+ yards and I reached a point at Blacks and a few other spots where I feel abnormally comfortable in large surf and a swim/tumble to the shore turns into a fun adventure - unless stuck in the inside whirlpool near the wetspots and crack - that is frightening
Yep, diving deep to avoid white water just tires you out. Blacks you can swim around the corner towards Scripps and make you way in if afraid of taking the big hit.Good thing about most beach breaks is you end up on shore pretty quick while getiting worked. My worst beating yet also my best barreling beach break took place at pascuales during my prime
That's a lot of yards, damn...
blacks is a large beach and I'm not sure where I was at, about half way between the glider park and the scrips peir, maybe closer to the glider park, but getting in was a mofraka even though it was small. Two yards forward two yards to the side two yards back...I would have been scared if I lost my board, and it was like three foot
Definitely true around here in SLO county. If shell beach could get 80 feet, it still wouldn't be scary because nothing happens but getting pushed back to shore. Blacks felt different.Good thing about most beach breaks is you end up on shore pretty quick while getiting worked. My worst beating yet also my best barreling beach break took place at pascuales during my prime
Score some good comfortable fins and next time pismo is big go out and bodysurf and get used to surfing with out a board.That's a lot of yards, damn...
blacks is a large beach and I'm not sure where I was at, about half way between the glider park and the scrips peir, maybe closer to the glider park, but getting in was a mofraka even though it was small. Two yards forward two yards to the side two yards back...I would have been scared if I lost my board, and it was like three foot
The crowds there are just too much. I dunno how anyone could have fun in a crowd like that.
I like to do this, haven't done it with fins though. Pismo is never scary because the shore is so regular. To drown there you'd have to hit your head on the pier or something. I'll Jose angel it there and dive off my board into closeouts and try to go as far under water as possible.
The bummer is my head gets so full of sand and stuff that it hurts for days after. Water randomly draining from my nose at work making people think I have some crazy sickness.
I guess it's a comfort with the spot thing.
Want a good workout, swim downwind as long as you would like, and run back up wind to the original starting point. Works g good paddling as well, ride waves as you go, but then you have to leave a car.
That hasn't happened in a very long time. Next time it does, I hope it blows the stupid new bullshlt pier into sawdust. IKEA pier.Not sure how often it happens lately but I meant breaking over the pier big
The mid-beach rip death zone is no fun. Some of my worst beatings have come from that pocket of horror.
You have to be prepared mentally and physically for the consequences of riding that part of the beach when it's really pumping. If you like to charge, are fit and surfing a lot, it's not too bad. If not, it can be really scary.
Well the super hot naked girl I chose to paddle out in front of(because, you know, unfamiliar spot, I needed a marker) should have said something
I wouldn't wait till it's too big to put on a pair of flippers. Last time I swam with flippers on a larger day, my legs went crampy. I attribute that to being older now and those muscles are rarely used that way. But ocean swimming is a great feat to practice.
Saw 90's Aussie pro Rob Bain get a triple -o 10 second barrel in like 92. Never saw it that good again.
When it's big, I like the reefs better -- there are some really good outer reef spots that (thankfully) are too much of a hassle for most, and none are Insta-friendly.
I moved to SD just for Blacks. Surfed there alot through the 90s. So crowded now. Rarely worth the hassle of surfing with 200 people.
It's all subjective/experience/etc.
Blacks is my home break (even though I'm in OC), surfed there more than anywhere over the last 35 plus years, and have spent time/hard earned money on traveling/staying in many other spots around the globe. Blacks holds size, but if you truly charge/like heavy water/put in time in challenging/irresponsible conditions/enjoy the craft of entries, and have knife game then you know the entries at Blacks are not extra technical and are super fun at maxing size, yes bigger boards are nice to navigate/current/paddle/etc but you can enter on smaller shapes depending on comfort level. In 2016 (El Nino) Blacks had over 30 days easy of dub to trip plus, water up to the cliffs, paved road at the bottom non existent, we traversed down the rocks on the south end and jumped in for months, and got out the same way...Blacks is my baby man and I love her and have professed that many times everywhere...but she's not going to kill you, not going to scare you like an outer reef NS or foggy Triple over OB (when you and a few others paddle out and only your dumbass makes it out and has to deal with it), don't get me wrong, you can get tested and worked/potentially drowned, but if you're dedicated, in shape and have sought out for years heavy water experiences (and the constant upkeep of your body), respect the ocean and know it's capabilities/power, then Blacks at maxing size or just SOLID can be so friggin fun (the cliffs, the marine life, the water color, the walk down/up, the swell angles it pulls in to keep you honed year round, the canyon sets, it's the best!!!) But, if you're giving it a go on a solid day and your experience/surfing level is limited it can seem a bit intimidating. It's a great training ground, even cardio wise when you've already surfed or it's flat/garbage conditions, all the trails down/up, such a beautiful place man!
Peace to ALL
Blacks is my home break (even though I'm in OC), surfed there more than anywhere over the last 35 plus years, and have spent time/hard earned money on traveling/staying in many other spots around the globe. Blacks holds size, but if you truly charge/like heavy water/put in time in challenging/irresponsible conditions/enjoy the craft of entries, and have knife game then you know the entries at Blacks are not extra technical and are super fun at maxing size, yes bigger boards are nice to navigate/current/paddle/etc but you can enter on smaller shapes depending on comfort level. In 2016 (El Nino) Blacks had over 30 days easy of dub to trip plus, water up to the cliffs, paved road at the bottom non existent, we traversed down the rocks on the south end and jumped in for months, and got out the same way...Blacks is my baby man and I love her and have professed that many times everywhere...but she's not going to kill you, not going to scare you like an outer reef NS or foggy Triple over OB (when you and a few others paddle out and only your dumbass makes it out and has to deal with it), don't get me wrong, you can get tested and worked/potentially drowned, but if you're dedicated, in shape and have sought out for years heavy water experiences (and the constant upkeep of your body), respect the ocean and know it's capabilities/power, then Blacks at maxing size or just SOLID can be so friggin fun (the cliffs, the marine life, the water color, the walk down/up, the swell angles it pulls in to keep you honed year round, the canyon sets, it's the best!!!) But, if you're giving it a go on a solid day and your experience/surfing level is limited it can seem a bit intimidating. It's a great training ground, even cardio wise when you've already surfed or it's flat/garbage conditions, all the trails down/up, such a beautiful place man!
Peace to ALL
I used to surf central coast spot that has a similar underwater structure. If I lost myr board when it was big I didn’t swim in during the sets. You just try to hold your ground, then when the big sets are over move in slowly and then make a little headway. Worst thing is to try rush right in and put yourself in a bad/worse spot than you already are. I surfed blacks a few times since moving down here. Easier just to surf b waves in front of my office with some work friend for a quick session than dealing with the donkey show. I’m too out of shape to surf it big anyways.