Best Glassing?

[rowjimmytour]

I believe it was pureglass who glassed my last two MC bonzers pu blanks with S glass and epoxy. They both have nice glass jobs and color but last had issues with black rails and epoxy/s glass and color. Stocked regardless the rails look purple haze instead of black and kinda look kool with jade green

 

[SlicedFeet]

I always tripped out on this.

Time of year/heat/humidity I think comes into play here a bit. I could be totally off on this though.

Also, how much of the skin on the blank was removed.

So...Does this relate to only 4/4/4 only? Sanded Finish, no sealer.

Are small minor sand throughs majorly deducted here?

To the Point though, my Greg Griffin‘s and other boards from HI, all seem to have stellar finishes...maybe it’s the consistent humidity that they’re relative dialed in a small band of range.

I’ve never had glassing issues with any of myCA boards though I have never had a 4/4/4 so that could be the issue.

 

[doc_flavonoid]

The Lab has been consistent. CI‘s in house glassing is good if you get the ’S’.

Bob Haakenson also.

lab has been good.

last two haakenson's were bad.

waterman's, santa cruz boardbuilders, stixnlogs in slo all highly recommended

 

[mundus]

My off the rack Lost has been good and I am not careful with boards. The last CI I had dinged if you looked at it wrong.

 

[casa_mugrienta]

Being that for outsiders like us it's difficult to tell whether it's the blank or the glass how about some criteria?

Denting of foam and delams can be for a variety of reasons so shouldn't include that.

Good glass = no eggshell effect, no ding for a casual bump in the wall, no tail cancer until the board is well ridden. Can take a few decent bumps without damage. Pressure dents should not turn yellow indicating water absorption. No bubbles, no sandthroughs in critical areas.

So

Sharp Eye - Consistently the best poly hands down. Their standard is 4x5 x 4 and I'm not sure if this has anything to do with it but there is no discernible difference in weight. I don't know what they do but they are leagues above every other glasser for standard shortboards IMO.

PureGlass - Excellent PU/epoxy combo

Roper's, Global - decent, Roper's have seemed a but heavy

Proctor - Excellent PU/epoxy combo but they turn vomit green

XTR - Great quality but turn yellow in seconds - get color

Rusty - consistently poor, shame cause they make some good boards

 

[Duffy LaCoronilla]

lab has been good.

last two haakenson's were bad.

waterman's, santa cruz boardbuilders, stixnlogs in slo all highly recommended

havent had in years.

 

[JBerry]

I've had many good to excelent experiences with both quality, craftsmanship, cutomer service, turnaround, and price,

from both: Watermans Guild and Pure Glass.

It's been a while since I've used anyone really as I tend to glass my own, FWIW, these 2 are my tops!

 

[JBerry]

Beg your glasser to email this guy.

Michael.Pollizi@sternandstern.com

Buy some untreated nylon 66. One layer epoxied against the foam. Cut lap, at the midpoint of the rail. Don't overlap.

One layer of fiberglass over that.

You will never want fiberglass only again.

Can you tell us a little more about this product, how you used it and why, and where did it come from? Thanks!

 

[GromsDad]

Best stock HP boards I've seen have been Superbrand. Lost are very good too. Sharpeye good. The glass jobs on most CI boards are not very good.

 

[everysurfer]

Can you tell us a little more about this product, how you used it and why, and where did it come from? Thanks!

Nylon 6,6
I use it on every board I make. First lam against the foam, then second lam is fiberglass.
The
For all you Coil fans, it's a modification of their first system.

They did non woven nylon epoxies over EPS. Then second lam was fiberglass with resin.

Woven nylon 6,6 is a lot stronger than the non woven. The email address is for the order taker guy from Stern and Stern.

The board will look and ride exactly like any other board. But unless you stab it with a knife, or smash it with a rock, or run it over with a car, it will not ding, stress fracture, delam, get rail cancer or any of that other stuff that light fiberglass boards do.

And you can dye it and get all artsy and sh!t


Follow the link.

 

[everysurfer]

 

[oneula]

how does it wet out?
And can you do both the nylon and the top glass in one lam?
What have you been using on top?
expensive?

I got some stuff from sanded in AU not sure if it is the same.

 

[everysurfer]

I was talking with the Sanded in AU guy, right before he came out. Id try it, but the shipping was crazy from Australia. His is a different fabric

Wet out a bit harder than fiberglass, because it's a really tight weave.

Lam it separately from the fiberglass layer, because you cut lap it different. It's tight weave means it doesn't drape easy. So cut at the rail apex, with no overlap of the other side. Then cap with fiberglass.

 

[everysurfer]

If you go Stern+Stern,

5.61 oz is pattern # A6042-60.

2.51 oz is A5994-39A

It's like $30 a yard for 60" wide, so more than fiberglass, but the board lasts forever.

 

[Sharkbiscuit]

EVERYSURFER!

I've always gotten the glass job I asked for from my local shaper doing it all himself. I ordered a 4/4/4 destructo-HPSB I didn't want to be stiff/heavy, guess what I got - and it didn't feel shitty, just 4/4/4 light + "lively" + fresh. I order a trip board with 4/6/4, the thing holds up. I order all 6oz, US Coast Guard ice breakers are fleeing in terror.

Living in North Florida, I'll also nominate Old City Custom Epoxies, aka Drew (C3/C4/Black Dart etc).

 

[oneula]

I was talking with the Sanded in AU guy, right before he came out. Id try it, but the shipping was crazy from Australia. His is a different fabric

Wet out a bit harder than fiberglass, because it's a really tight weave.

Lam it separately from the fiberglass layer, because you cut lap it different. It's tight weave means it doesn't drape easy. So cut at the rail apex, with no overlap of the other side. Then cap with fiberglass.

Thanks
How's it's flexibility, drape compare to aluminized texalium?
That stuff especially the blue was a bitch

Do I go with the 2.51+4oz cloth way or 5.61+ 2oz/4oz way?
I always thought you'd want the finer weave on the top not underneath?

You ever try those silk screened veils?
How would this compare?
I've used a bunch of those preprinted veils from fiberglast like this

Sorry bout the jack
Waterman's in So Cal

in Hawaii
Obviously Jack if you can afford it and he'll do it
Third Stone/Brian
Thomas Delapina on Maui

 

[JBerry]

If you go Stern+Stern,

5.61 oz is pattern # A6042-60.

2.51 oz is A5994-39A

It's like $30 a yard for 60" wide, so more than fiberglass, but the board lasts forever.

OK.
So, for a standard type shortboard glass schedule, how would you glass using this cloth?2.51/4 x 2.51?
Do you use it specifically on eps or can you use it on a traditional poly blank?
Do you use only with epoxy or can you use it with UV poly?

Also, at 60" wide, does it cut more like cloth or more like kevlar?
(I know those are both totally different and they cut that way too.)
For a 60" wide cut, I'd be interested in halving it to 30" to double your useage on standard shortboard widths.
More info please

 

[everysurfer]

OK.
So, for a standard type shortboard glass schedule, how would you glass using this cloth?2.51/4 x 2.51?
Do you use it specifically on eps or can you use it on a traditional poly blank?
Do you use only with epoxy or can you use it with UV poly?

Also, at 60" wide, does it cut more like cloth or more like kevlar?
(I know those are both totally different and they cut that way too.)
For a 60" wide cut, I'd be interested in halving it to 30" to double your useage on standard shortboard widths.
More info please

For standard short board, deck could be 2.51 x 6 oz or 5.6 nylon and 2 oz fiberglass. The fiberglass is for sanding. If you sand into the nylon, it fuzzes up. I've done boards with only nylon, but you have to be really careful. Same with the bottom. Also, nylon specific gravity is less than 1, so it floats on water, fiberglass is more than 1 so it sinks.

I wouldn't try resin. You have to push resin in, where epoxy soaks itself in. The tight weave would fight polyester. Also, the tight weave takes longer to soak in. It takes longer than 15 minutes that catalized gives. UV might have problems if you dye the cloth a darker color. Lastly, I don't know chemically what styrene and acetone etc. Would do to the nylon.

It cuts like fabric. Like cutting a t shirt. So a bit harder than fiberglass.

And yes, 60" wide splits into 2 at 30". So a board is going to cost about $40 more.

Stern+Stern is an American weaving company, for engineered cloths. You can find cheaper Chinese fabrics, but you don't know what you are really getting. Plus, you don't want any water repellant coatings added. Most fabrics you find have it. That will hurt the bond.

 

[Duffy LaCoronilla]

Best stock HP boards I've seen have been Superbrand. Lost are very good too. Sharpeye good. The glass jobs on most CI boards are not very good.

Do not buy a CI that wasn’t glasses in house or at The Lab.

In house glassed boards have gps coordinates on the tail.

 

[laidback]

tim can make them light and surprisingly strong

I have always had great boards glassed at Tim's & watermans