How many surfs before you ditch a board?

[PRCD]

LIke freeride said, the board is fine.

I would take the quad setup out and put in a thruster.

I think the problem here is the board looks like it has more speed than you're utilizing. A lot of times on your forehand you're out on the shoulder instead of in the pocket and your right arm is not engaged. You're surfing linear on the thing. I think the board could be surfed aggressively as a quad in those conditions well but it's outside the skill level of surfers who are not effortlessly linking turns...i.e. the guys putting in 3 turns for the average recreational surfer's 1 turn.

Not trying to be a dick (I am far from a ripper) I'm just telling you exactly what's going on in that clip.

Backside looks fine as a quad, but just take it for a spin as a thruster and see if it improves all round.

Lastly, as @Duffy LaCoronilla said, start playing around on a midlength, I think it would benefit your surfing bigly and give you a more rewarding experience on your shortboard.

Surfing out on the shoulder instead of the pocket has nothing to do with the board - it's the lines you're drawing and where you're looking. Better surfers stay with the pocket to surf top-to-bottom unless the section is really fat and they can project out onto the shoulder for a big cutback.



Advanced surfers also tend to stay on rail either as they're bottom turning or shifting to the opposite rail on the the snap or cutback. For this - well - the Tomos have 3-6" less rail line. There's a reason you don't see Tomos on tour.

The midlength suggestion is one I've made to myself and never taken myself up on it haha.


Full disclosure: ReForest surfs better than me.

 

[OsideBum]

I guess it depends on how much I want the board to work. I spent the better part of a year surfing a board off and on and finally gave up on it. It was a custom, and I knew as soon as I picked it up it didn't have that magic.

 

[ReForest]

put in normal fins, get low off the bottom and then smash the lip, repeat.

you’re thinking too much

How about these fins?

 

[ReForest]

Actually, I think those fins only work in …Lost boards.

 

[billypilgrim]

How about these fins?
View attachment 176127

Looks to me like they will provide a lot of squirt out of turns.

 

[ReForest]

LIke freeride said, the board is fine.

I would take the quad setup out and put in a thruster.

I think the problem here is the board looks like it has more speed than you're utilizing. A lot of times on your forehand you're out on the shoulder instead of in the pocket and your right arm is not engaged. You're surfing linear on the thing. I think the board could be surfed aggressively as a quad in those conditions well but it's outside the skill level of surfers who are not effortlessly linking turns...i.e. the guys putting in 3 turns for the average recreational surfer's 1 turn.

Not trying to be a dick (I am far from a ripper) I'm just telling you exactly what's going on in that clip.

Backside looks fine as a quad, but just take it for a spin as a thruster and see if it improves all round.

Lastly, as @Duffy LaCoronilla said, start playing around on a midlength, I think it would benefit your surfing bigly and give you a more rewarding experience on your shortboard.

I appreciate the feedback. I'm gonna give it a try as a thruster and see what happens. I'll also work on the broken wrist, going top to bottom more and staying more in the pocket.

Dont know about the midlength though. I think that would jack up my surfing? I've never seen you on a mid.

 

[PRCD]

I appreciate the feedback. I'm gonna give it a try as a thruster and see what happens. I'll also work on the broken wrist, going top to bottom more and staying more in the pocket.

Dont know about the midlength though. I think that would jack up my surfing? I've never seen you on a mid.

I think the advice to try a midlength is that they force you to draw out your turns and use more of the wave rather than make short, stabby turns. Look at Ewing at small Balls. He comes from behind the breaking section to make vertical re-entries but spends a lot of time working from the pocket out to the shoulder and back with long, drawn-out turns in those fat sections.

This is all easier said than done.

 

[ReForest]

I think the advice to try a midlength is that they force you to draw out your turns and use more of the wave rather than make short, stabby turns. Look at Ewing at small Balls. He comes from behind the breaking section to make vertical re-entries but spends a lot of time working from the pocket out to the shoulder and back with long, drawn-out turns in those fat sections.

This is all easier said than done.

That looks like a step up not a midlength though?

 

[tedshred5]

That looks like a step up not a midlength though?

think his point is, try something with more rail line than a 5'2

 

[PRCD]

think his point is, try something with more rail line than a 5'2

Right. We want to draw out our turns like Ewing but since we're not Ewing, we can't learn to do it on our thrusters or chippy Tomos. This is why people recommend we get a midlength.

 

[Duffy LaCoronilla]

I’m seeing RF’s torso following his legs. Should be the inverse of that.

 

[ciscojaws]

Board looks good. I think you might need to start using your back leg, though.

As for the dick fins, I can confirm they work great in my Mini Driver

 

[oeste858]

I appreciate the feedback. I'm gonna give it a try as a thruster and see what happens. I'll also work on the broken wrist, going top to bottom more and staying more in the pocket.

Dont know about the midlength though. I think that would jack up my surfing? I've never seen you on a mid.

didn't Tomo say it should be ridden a quad tho? Maybe you already have, but I'd try a more conventional quad set... there's already so much going on with the boar no need to add more unnecessary variables like your tiny trailer quad rear fins.
Maybe reach out to him directly. I'm sure he has time for his #1 Fan to help make this boar work for ya.
edit: FWIW, I agree with others, your turns are kinda swivel-y/flicky with the lower body, while the upper body stiff/not as engaged. Did you ever do any coaching with that Barr guy?
Also agree your surfing has improved a lot the past few years! Stupid soloshot!

 

[ReForest]

didn't Tomo say it should be ridden a quad tho? Maybe you already have, but I'd try a more conventional quad set... there's already so much going on with the boar no need to add more unnecessary variables like your tiny trailer quad rear fins.
Maybe reach out to him directly. I'm sure he has time for his #1 Fan to help make this boar work for ya.
edit: FWIW, I agree you're surfing has improved a lot the past few years. Stupid soloshot!

Haha. The cholo strikes again.

I did ask him about it and he told me to ditch the tiny trailer and twin front fins, and get a set of Endorfins. He said that the size and shape of the Endorfins work best in the Vader V2. He did also tell me that the board is a little fin sensitive.

 

[oeste858]

Haha. The cholo strikes again.

I did ask him about it and he told me to ditch the tiny trailer and twin front fins, and get a set of Endorfins. He said that the size and shape of the Endorfins work best in the Vader V2. He did also tell me that the board is a little fin sensitive.

FWIW, I agree with others, your turns are kinda swivel-y/flicky with the lower body, while the upper body stiff/not as engaged. Did you ever do any coaching with that Barr guy?

 

[ReForest]

FWIW, I agree with others, your turns are kinda swivel-y/flicky with the lower body, while the upper body stiff/not as engaged. Did you ever do any coaching with that Barr guy?

No. Duran Barr is his name and I did not. John Daniels from LTR has offered to give me some tips but felt kinda weird hitting him up about it. Now that Case and Teeroi and others on here have pointed some things out maybe i'll start with that and see what he says.

Its weird to ask for surfing advice in your 40's. But I think it's just pride and the ego getting in the way of progress.

 

[sdsrfr]

Its weird to ask for surfing advice in your 40's. But I think it's just pride and the ego getting in the way of progress.

 

[oeste858]

No. Duran Barr is his name and I did not. John Daniels from LTR has offered to give me some tips but felt kinda weird hitting him up about it. Now that Case and Teeroi and others on here have pointed some things out maybe i'll start with that and see what he says.

Its weird to ask for surfing advice in your 40's. But I think it's just pride and the ego getting in the way of progress.

totally fair. that's probably why most of us dont wanna see video. LOL. Anytime I surf at a surfline cam spot, the camera angle certainly distorts the wave height and the radical quality of my surfing on that one wave I thought might've been worth checking out.

You're so into solo shot analysis, I figured that wouldn't be a hurdle for you tho.

 

[Aruka]

Man, I really need to get a cholo shot so I can have freeride critique my wrist form on a public forum

 

[silentbutdeadly]

Man, I really need to get a cholo shot so I can have freeride critique my wrist form on a public forum

You should equip the cholo shot with a CA flag