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What surfing has become.

One-Off

One-Off

Tom Curren status
Jul 28, 2005
14,240
10,439
113
33.8N - 118.4W
Chocki said:
Preach bro. The trick for me was
A) mindfulness, I tried very hard to simply be thankful for being healthy enough etc to be able to go surfing in the first place

2) again mindfulness, I also tried very hard to be aware of/look for the moments of beauty and joy that occur when one is surfing and to appreciate how lucky I was to be there at that moment in time to experience it. A dank pelican squadron fly by for example or dolphins surfing as you paddle back out, the list is endless
Click to expand...
As Mickey Munoz once said, all it takes is one good turn to make my day.
 
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Chocki

Chocki

Phil Edwards status
Feb 18, 2007
6,555
7,111
113
Planet Earth
One-Off said:
As Mickey Munoz once said, all it takes is one good turn to make my day.
Click to expand...
That’s how I tried to teach myself how to surf. One good turn at a time. To start I concentrated on bottom turns. You ain’t got one of those both ways you ain’t got sh!t. Then cutbacks. It worked with varying degrees of success but I always had fun trying
 
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E

expotatonator

Feb 5, 2024
123
65
28
my last sesh 4ft clean...sort of...wind went offshore...got good 'uns...turned sideshore; i sat...switched back offshore...
more good stuff...switched again...then i took twenty on the head paddling out...which turned my attitude bad...:socrazy:
 
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One-Off

One-Off

Tom Curren status
Jul 28, 2005
14,240
10,439
113
33.8N - 118.4W
PRCD

PRCD

Tom Curren status
Feb 25, 2020
12,810
8,831
113
M

menobrah

Gerry Lopez status
Feb 28, 2021
1,059
2,155
113
I and the entire surf population of ny state are headed to gromsdads general location tomorrow - granted Im surfing a fair bit north of his local, but I surf a spot that takes about a 10 minute walk to get to and is absolutely empty even on the best best days....I have never shared it with more than two or three peeps. The stairs down from the lot end on one of the most crowded spots in nj, but walk just a bit down the beach and its empty. I am a believer that we can all still score, wherever we are, if we put just a little bit of effort into going past the marquee spots...
 
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~rwright~

~rwright~

Michael Peterson status
Apr 14, 2015
2,539
967
113
Los Angeles~California!
surfin' is still soo fun!
woo~woo...
:waving:
rw

ps~ here'z a few ol' pics from my own, rw's collection,
from over thee yearz, ridin' goofy or that other, weird way:
hitin' it.jpg
+
Still Surfin'-003.JPG
+
Still surfin'-002.JPG
+
hi.jpg

hahahahaha...
go + surf, it's fun!!!

by the way,
i hope that you all, yep, you all, have you great up~coming day,
+ please, DO NOT FORGET to change your clocks ~ forward!
hehehe...
randy
:shaka:
 
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