Blacks

EntropyFletch

Gerry Lopez status
Sep 20, 2006
1,100
362
83
San Diego
Some of the best, biggest, longest barrels of my life out there...

Now its so crowded I rarely go. When I do, I'm generally pissed I went becasue of said crowd.

Having said that, hard to beat the effort to barrel ratio out there most days...
 
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oeste858

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2017
7,022
17,486
113
San Diego, CA
I used to surf blacks a bit as a grom and 20's, down the ho chi minh or sometimes walked over from scripps at low tide. It always felt like an adventure. Like others have said, can be feast (barrels) or famine (beatdowns, wrong positioning). I admit I've never surfed it giant. Even HH days have humbled me with some memorable hold-downs.
But I have not surfed it since I moved back to town as a married adult with kids. Can't deal with the crowds, plus I usually have less than an hour to surf on a weekday between work commitments... so the walk is a dealbreaker.

That guy in Mission Beach, Ho Stevie, has a drone there anytime there is a decent swell and posts the best waves to Insta. I can't imagine how nuts the crowd has gotten due to BS like that, especially during the great SD covid sarfer explosion of 2020-2021.
 
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sdsrfr

Phil Edwards status
Jul 13, 2020
5,975
11,468
113
San Diego
The crowd can be unbelievable some days.

same story as everywhere else, green on surfline and you’re sure to have heaps of people.

pleased to say I’ve still had it near empty around HH and epic conditions while Surfline claimed poor to fair the whole week.

IYKYK, or just go every day like many otherwise do. Lol.

only place I thought I’d drown just trying to belly in on an otherwise fairly small day. those rips…
 

stringcheese

Miki Dora status
Jun 21, 2017
4,038
3,829
113
Glad to hear that I'm not a unique type of wuss for feeling like that place kinda gave it to me at simple overhead size. Interesting beach. Imagine if it had a reef under there...
 
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Chee-to

Michael Peterson status
Jan 11, 2002
2,428
975
113
You kneeboarders quietly dominated back in the day - respect

Except Tom - I will kick him in the balls if I ever see him :cursing:
Considering he was "Old Tom" 20 years ago, aim for his ankles.

What is this 8'4" you want to get rid of?
 
Oct 13, 2019
91
52
18
CenCoast
Had a drunkenstudent diet when I lived down there..I got rolled by a set. sh!t my shorts when I got pancaked/steamrolled on the bottom then picked back up and flipped for whiplash. Luckily no fullsuit.
 

Muscles

Michael Peterson status
Jun 1, 2013
2,599
3,607
113
California/Hawaii
Surfed Blacks for the first time a few weeks ago. It lived up to the hype.

While it is crowded it isn't anymore crowded than most breaks in Hawaii. The difference is the spots in Hawaii are filled with pros, former pros, uncles who rip, and people who surfed since they could walk. Blacks is filled with not those types...Don't get me wrong, there's rippers out there. But there's also a bunch of people who have no business being out there and they don't know how to position themselves for waves.

I managed to get a decent amount of waves but I only surf dawn patrol. I'm sure it is a sh!t show mid day on weekends like everywhere else on the planet.
 

hammies

Duke status
Apr 8, 2006
15,611
14,264
113
I surfed Blacks several times in the '80s. I remember it was crowded a lot. Got some great waves, also got my ass handed to me by the ocean a few times. Never surfed it real big. It's a time commitment, getting there takes a while.
 

Bob Dobbalina

Miki Dora status
Feb 23, 2016
4,361
4,771
113
You get some Canyon sets yet @bluengreen ?

I haven't surfed Blacks much. When I was probably 12 I surfed it on a biggish West swell. My dad was a kneeboarder in SD County that was a bit of a tube hound. I got super rattled and wanted to go in. My dad told me to paddle in and a canyon set swung through right as I took a few strokes. I spun to sprint back out the back whie I watched my friend, his dad, and half the lineup get smoked. My buddy's dad (RIP) broke his board bailing under it, my friend got washed in. I almost cussed my dad out. Then I sprinted in.