Entire west coast about to get some action

StuAzole

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Jan 22, 2016
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I keep seeing all these social media headlines ..... Giant surf ... Historic surf .... 20'-30' ... etc etc. But when watching the video clips the best i've seen appears to be solid 6' (Hawaiian) at best. Has it been so long that everyone in SoCal has forgotten what real waves look like? The video clips from the swell that hit New Jersey look way more intense. Just sayin!
I keep seeing all these social media headlines ..... Giant surf ... Historic surf .... 20'-30' ... etc etc. But when watching the video clips the best i've seen appears to be solid 6' (Hawaiian) at best. Has it been so long that everyone in SoCal has forgotten what real waves look like? The video clips from the swell that hit New Jersey look way more intense. Just sayin!
yes, it’s been a long time, but the reality of SoCal is that size is wasted on all but a handful of spots.

If I had to venture a guess, blacks, Oxnard etc were all larger than Jersey. And let’s not forget that was alleged to be the biggest ever in Jersey. don’t think those claims are being made here.
 

casa_mugrienta

Duke status
Apr 13, 2008
43,705
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Petak Island
I keep seeing all these social media headlines ..... Giant surf ... Historic surf .... 20'-30' ... etc etc. But when watching the video clips the best i've seen appears to be solid 6' (Hawaiian) at best. Has it been so long that everyone in SoCal has forgotten what real waves look like? The video clips from the swell that hit New Jersey look way more intense. Just sayin!
It's not been as big as that run last January.
 
Dec 5, 2020
41
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SF
Topanga was so fucking fun today - 2 sessions - super long rides.
THIS.

Was down in LA visiting family for Christmas. Brother-in-law grew up down there. Caught peak of the swell with him and 100+ other friends at Topanga. Sat wide and basically had our pick of set waves that would bowl up, and went when dudes couldn’t connect from the top of the point (maybe 1 per set). Couldn’t have been more fun. BIL said it was the biggest he’s ever surfed Topanga. Saw one guy milk one awfully close to Chart House, which I guess is a big deal down there. Very stoked.

Amazing the difference in power between nearly DOH OB vs SoCal- OB never feels ‘rippable’ to me at that size.
 

hammies

Duke status
Apr 8, 2006
15,614
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I keep seeing all these social media headlines ..... Giant surf ... Historic surf .... 20'-30' ... etc etc. But when watching the video clips the best i've seen appears to be solid 6' (Hawaiian) at best. Has it been so long that everyone in SoCal has forgotten what real waves look like? The video clips from the swell that hit New Jersey look way more intense. Just sayin!
Media hype =/= reality.
It was a nice double-o + swell, with a high tide that caused some damage here and there.
Up north it was really big, though.
 

Surfdog

Duke status
Apr 22, 2001
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South coast OR
When drama queen videos like this go super viral with national news featuring it all over the country, it's no wonder over-drama hype leads in our social media saturated world.

I first watched it with the sound off. Then later after seeing it all over the news, I watched again with the narration, and thought....:foreheadslap:

I guess the guy was later interviewed and he claimed it was "scary and apocalyptic".

Did you see the people still standing only a few feet from the sea-wall after he ran a block inland fearing for his life?:applause2:

video ain't sh!t without some drama screaming and yelling.
 
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$kully

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Feb 27, 2009
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When drama queen videos like this go super viral with national news featuring it all over the country, it's no wonder over-drama hype leads in our social media saturated world.

I first watched it with the sound off. Then later after seeing it all over the news, I watched again with the narration, and thought....:foreheadslap:

I guess the guy was later interviewed and he claimed it was "scary and apocalyptic".

Did you see the people still standing only a few feet from the sea-wall after he ran a block inland fearing for his life?:applause2:

video ain't sh!t without some drama screaming and yelling.
Even Surfermag was sharing it and referring to it as a “rogue wave”. I expect that from local news but the folks at primedia should know the difference between a sneaker set and a rogue wave.
 

$kully

Duke status
Feb 27, 2009
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Just drove by Porto. It was big and unruly. Steady onshore and looked like victory at sea. Zero takers. There were sets breaking further outside than I’ve ever seen there.
 

Surfdog

Duke status
Apr 22, 2001
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South coast OR
Everything is always overhyped now. With that said, there are waves breaking at least 30yds outside of the Del Mar Jetty right now. Not harbor N Jetty, the DMJ jetty. I haven’t seen that before. Saw a vid of waves breaking at the end of the pier a couple days ago. Haven’t seen that either. That’s serious swell.
Ya, just check the O'side harbor cam and sets are breaking way out past the breakwater, and rolling along for a while before it hits the outermost breakwater rocks.

There must a be tons of sand built up around the outside breakwater that have drifted from north of Del Mar Jetty beach on Camp Pendleton. I don't think they've EVER dredged outside the breakwater in the last 50 years? It's also why Del Mar beach on Camp Pendleton is probably the widest beach in most all of North County SD, if not all of SD county itself.

That harbor is what caused all the beaches south of it to dwindle to near nothing (even with bypass dredging). Especially since the big El Nino of '82-'83 that wiped out most beaches from O'side to Carlsbad down into Encinitas and Solana.

Many probably don't remember when there used to be a motel on the beach where the Cardiff parking lot now sits. Another casualty of El Nino 82-83.

I've seen picture of Carlsbad back in the 60's-70's when it had a nice wide beach. Also if you notice the homes along the beach south of Wisconsin in Oceanside that have some sand back yards now surrounded by rip-rap breakwalls. That level of sand along those backyards, is where the beach level USED to be before winter 82-83. Oceanside pier was demolished from that same winter (rebuilt a couple years later), and the beaches have never recovered the same since. They had to install all those rip-rap rocks along the beach south of Wisconsin all the way down to Carlsbad to save those homes.
 
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Surfdog

Duke status
Apr 22, 2001
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BTW, this 2nd swell should be peaking this afternoon in SD area today.

Earlier forecasts had this 2nd swell potentially be the same or even a tad larger than the first bomb swell.

But, after looking at the models and resulting storm size, formation and track, it seems to be a bit less than anticipated, but still a very healthy/worthy storm. 1st large storm was much broader in size and lingered longer off the coast well N and NE of Hawaii gaining more traction on the ocean surface to create large longer period swell. It also had a much longer track of "virtual swell" earlier on, where the storms fetch travels over the swell in the same direction the swell is moving for an extended period of time. A storm that does this for a very extended stretch of ocean makes swells with numerous waves in larger sets (5-8 or more).

2nd storm was good size, drifting a bit more south, with just as strong winds, but a bit more compact in overall fetch length/width than first bomb storm. So, net effect was another large swell, but not quite as potent as the 1st 20-23ft @18-20 second swell on offshore buoys. This one looks to have topped out at 15-18ft, maybe a bit bigger up north, and a very straight west direction (270 +/-5 degrees or so). The earlier thoughts were this 2nd swell would be traveling over an already agitated sea state, and swell would grow larger, faster. Not sure if that happened as anticipated?

Take advantage when you can. Looks like more on the way, but not quite like these last 2. Models show a storm moving into CA coast mid-week, and another stronger one next weekend, but likely weather to go along with it. Every 3 days or so, right behind another. Storm door looks to be finally opening up for CA and even So Cal. El Nino is here.
 

One-Off

Tom Curren status
Jul 28, 2005
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33.8N - 118.4W
For the second time in my life I got a wave from the very top of the point at Malibu all the way past the end of the pit wall. :jamon:The first time was in the late 70's early 80's but I was behind Sarlo the whole way. This time too, some guy dropped in on me. I had enough room behind him to be rollercoastering but every time I passed over his trail I had a moment of instability. Like "whoa sh!t!" before I could reset my edge for the bottom turn. When we got down to First point I was able to pass him. He stayed behind me the rest of the wave and we both milked the last section all the way to the beach. I was so stoked I would have given him a high five but he immediately started walking up the point. Maybe he felt guilty about the burn and thought I would have words. I didn't care. That wave made my day. I got out after that with a permanent grin. No way was I going to get a better wave than that. Watching for while afterwards no other waves made it all the through.

Stocked.

ps the river was running hard and paddling back out against the side shores I gulped water at least a couple times. Ruh Roh.
stress testing the immune system.
 
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StuAzole

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Jan 22, 2016
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For the second time in my life I got a wave from the very top of the point at Malibu all the way past the end of the pit wall. :jamon:The first time was in the late 70's early 80's but I was behind Sarlo the whole way. This time too, some guy dropped in on me. I had enough room behind him to be rollercoastering but every time I passed over his trail I had a moment of instability. Like "whoa sh!t!" before I could reset my edge for the bottom turn. When we got down to First point I was able to pass him. He stayed behind me the rest of the wave and we both milked the last section all the way to the beach. I was so stoked I would have given him a high five but he immediately started walking up the point. Maybe he felt guilty about the burn and thought I would have words. I didn't care. That wave made my day. I got out after that with a permanent grin. No way was I going to get a better wave than that. Watching for while afterwards no other waves made it all the through.

Stocked.

ps the river was running hard and paddling back out against the side shores I gulped water at least a couple times. Ruh Roh.
stress testing the immune system.
Best surf at Malibu I ever had was a really good sized wnw at some point in the 94/95 winter. 6 hours with no more than 10 people out at any given time. I vaguely remember seeing Ricky Schaefer, a young Colin Giles and a few others but nobody expected Malibu to even Be a blip on the radar that day.
 
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