I like the color coordination between your board and avatar. That's some high level erbbing.
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***Official 2022 Community Surf Journal***
- Thread starter Kento
- Start date
Took the new whip out to the dawn patrol regular. Boar is a Tokoro Project3, Pro3 for short. Dims are 5’ 10 x 20 1/8 x 2 3/4. Vol. 33.5 L. Glassed 4oz e on the bottom, single 4oz s cloth on the deck with tail and front foot patches. It’s a DD stubby for good waves up to a little overhead. It has a relaxed tail and entry rocker but there’s a noticeable flip in the nose about 12in. back. It’s a double in a single concave and it’s deeper than the Pro2. I’m not gonna put a level over the bottom so use your imagination. Rode the trusty FCS2H4 larges.
Got a wave in the dark and made it to the inside but boar felt slow. Probably cause I rode the grovel twin yesterday. Second wave took off too deep and with the low tide it ran away from me. Third wave after all the dp crew got a wave I took off on a sick one. Teepee’s usually don’t have a wall and bowl but this one was a roll-in to bottom turn, one pump right into an open barrel. Yew!!!
Did fall or went over the back on some off the lips mostly cause there’s a lot of south in the swell and those don’t bowl and the lip doesn’t push the boar back to you. Kinda found the gas peddle, it’s foot over the fins.
Neal swam out and was shooting. I don’t think I got any good turns in front of him. But I told Neal he swam out 15 minutes too late. He missed my barrel and a good wrap on the outside. Neal laughed and said then you woke up. Getting roasted by the photog. Hahaha.
Avoided disaster. Went down to Machado Reef with wife, son and daughter in law. We left the house at 1:00 pm on a Sunday. Yes, I was stressing out, "we won't be able to park" and stuff like that. Phew, we actually found two spots, next to each other. Cool, we made it, stress levels are dropping fast. Get to the sand, abulully packed, I see a couple leaving, wife says "I don't like that spot", stress level rising fast again. We find a spot, I start checking the surf. It looks fun. Go grab boar out of car and paddle out, first trunks sess of the year. Long, long HH sets, long lulls, typical. Caught a handful that I milked to the shore, lot's of back and forth type turns. Son paddles out, catches two, he's stocked. Last time he paddled was prolly 5 years ago, he don't surf.
At home, we laughed at how lobsterized we all were.
At home, we laughed at how lobsterized we all were.
Nice 4 day camping trip with the kids and i heard I didn't miss much.
1st sesh at desperation bar this morning. Felt good to get wet but it was terrible. Even the mitsimmons felt gutless.
1st sesh at desperation bar this morning. Felt good to get wet but it was terrible. Even the mitsimmons felt gutless.
left the house Saturday morning figuring it would be pretty meager - conditions did not disappoint.
spent about an hour waiting for the “right“ one. finally it came, I got the cutback I was waiting for and then ignorantly paddled back out thinking id get another.
eventually got bored and paddled into a closeout and bellied in.
spent Sunday repairing my old CI of the “hybrid 00’s“ era from my parents board shed. the outline is not surprisingly dissimilar to some of the neo-alt-retro shapes coming out this summer. pretty amped to get it wet. I think I need a farmer John wetsuit fieat. Lol.
spent about an hour waiting for the “right“ one. finally it came, I got the cutback I was waiting for and then ignorantly paddled back out thinking id get another.
eventually got bored and paddled into a closeout and bellied in.
spent Sunday repairing my old CI of the “hybrid 00’s“ era from my parents board shed. the outline is not surprisingly dissimilar to some of the neo-alt-retro shapes coming out this summer. pretty amped to get it wet. I think I need a farmer John wetsuit fieat. Lol.
these 2 have been fun. inconsistent south swell peaks but when they came, felt like a skatepark. fs and bs roundies and a couple nice fs end section reos to keep this old kook stocked. came home to find a baby lizard stuck in a sticky trap in the garage. lil duu looked stressed. I added vegetable oil and waited 10 mins, then voila! lil duuu slithered free unscathed. "live free young one!" I said as he stockedly ran into the bush.
Dawned the regular. It was pumping yesterday afternoon and into the evening so brought the 5’10 and 6’2 4Xs. Looked like it peaked overnight so I paddled the 5’10 out. Sets were slow while I sat at Middles. Got a couple of closeouts and paddled over to Big Bowl. Waves were a few feet overhead with a couple of doh bombs.
It was a good size for Big Bowl but lots of south in the swell. There were still barrels to be had on the inside Bowl. Got a quick round one on my second wave. Mostly just worked on taking off a little deep and doing turns in the steep sections that didn’t tube.
Crowd was light and surfed with Mike Ho for a couple of hours. He gets a lot of waves but he’ll call you into waves and cheer if you get a good one. Love surfing with him. I got a really good carve on a section but the white wash swatted me. Mike told me don’t come all the way around just bring the nose to point at the beach then bottom turn into the next section and turn. Solid coaching for the waves today.
It was a good size for Big Bowl but lots of south in the swell. There were still barrels to be had on the inside Bowl. Got a quick round one on my second wave. Mostly just worked on taking off a little deep and doing turns in the steep sections that didn’t tube.
Crowd was light and surfed with Mike Ho for a couple of hours. He gets a lot of waves but he’ll call you into waves and cheer if you get a good one. Love surfing with him. I got a really good carve on a section but the white wash swatted me. Mike told me don’t come all the way around just bring the nose to point at the beach then bottom turn into the next section and turn. Solid coaching for the waves today.
South shore is pumping. Getting bigger all day. Dawned the regular on the 5’10 Tokoro 4X. Light crowd but it was slower than after the tide and new swell filled in.
Surfed with a bunch of body boarders including world champs Jeff and Dave Hubbard. After Gregg and another surfer went in they told me I’m surrounded. Got a really good one, set up the barrel and was getting spit out but fell on the foam ball.
Told the Hubbards that if I keep falling in those barrels going switch to a 5 channel Hubbard body board. They said I’m always welcome in the club.
Waited my turn and even let a couple of bombs go by that didn’t look like the right one. Paddled into an overhead wave bottom turn to project down the line and got spit out of a nugget all smiles.
Former pro football player Chad Owens was out. The boys were asking how was that one? I told them it hit my head on the way out but I just thought Chad Owens Chad Owens! Chad goes yeah break that tackle.
I paddled over to Middles to go in. I went by the Hubbards and told them sorry Hubbards after I made that barrel going to stick with my Tokoro’s for now. They cracked up. Haha.
Surfed with a bunch of body boarders including world champs Jeff and Dave Hubbard. After Gregg and another surfer went in they told me I’m surrounded. Got a really good one, set up the barrel and was getting spit out but fell on the foam ball.
Told the Hubbards that if I keep falling in those barrels going switch to a 5 channel Hubbard body board. They said I’m always welcome in the club.
Waited my turn and even let a couple of bombs go by that didn’t look like the right one. Paddled into an overhead wave bottom turn to project down the line and got spit out of a nugget all smiles.
Former pro football player Chad Owens was out. The boys were asking how was that one? I told them it hit my head on the way out but I just thought Chad Owens Chad Owens! Chad goes yeah break that tackle.
I paddled over to Middles to go in. I went by the Hubbards and told them sorry Hubbards after I made that barrel going to stick with my Tokoro’s for now. They cracked up. Haha.
Had low expectations when I paddled out this morning….but not low enough….small and cold. Hopefully next time.
I’m In Kauai for a bit. The south swell exceeded expectations. I bet ur entire zone was lit up today. Bigger here today than yesterday.
super inconsistent s swell funky monkey waves on the flare.
Ended up being way better than it looked. The board seriously fvcks... like a porn star
Ended up being way better than it looked. The board seriously fvcks... like a porn star
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fun! skatepark again. best roundy all summer. old man caves, hits, slashes. surfed with couple well behaved groms that were shredding the inside waves. I told them they were shredding and they lit up. one of them even talked some smack to me when i missed a wave lol. there's some hope for the next generation of surfers. 20+ waves later i'm spent. crowd got thick as i left but that south started showing a lot more.
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I may need to bring this to leash string thread but I think I been doing wrong for 42 years
I always tuck the knot inside rail saver loop. I always figured helps protect knot from coming undone 
springsuit and reef booties for the low tide. left the hood on the beach. at my age idgaf.
I am pretty sure thats @INDTUBE looking for @casa_mugrienta riding a griffin at lowers
If it was @Havoc trunks would be worn on outside of springsuit