^THIS^Never knew there was any debate over this.
As a grom you learn quickly gunning for the shoulder will result in a grown man verbally abusing you; as you progress and become a victim yourself you understand you deserved the abuse.
I've never heard any lifelong surfer say otherwise because adults tend to know you don't play in oncoming traffic because sometimes it's too hard to stop.
I don't know how any lifelong hardcore surfer could think this because at some point they'd end up seriously injured or at odds with a local who isn't fvcking around.
On the East Coast, the West Coast at any of the better waves, and anywhere on the planet I've ever traveled the paddler's responsibility is to paddle out of the way, even if it means taking it on the head.
That's the rule, and the only rule.
Try that paddling to the shoulder stuff at any break anywhere in the world and you will get verbally abused. Not sure how a pro Doesn't react or at least paddle to the whitewater, and looks like he's sitting really far on the inside, when you do that you should be ultra aware cause bad stuff happens when you sit inside like that.
to quote the great turtle:
"when it breaks here, don't be there"