Yeah... I have zero interest in going through stuff like that. The enjoyment I get out of surfing has zero to do with facing risks. The moment there's fear involved my enjoyment is sucked out of it. I know, I'm a pussy.
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Cloudbreak what the fvck
- Thread starter stringcheese
- Start date
It’s just a little blood. Rather spend all day navigating a reef than any amount of time trying to figure out where the surface is
Depends how bad you get held down. I think having to hold your breath a bit longer is better than stitches any day. The stitches will end a trip if you hit the reef hard enough. Also depends how long of a hold down we are talking about. Probably rather get scraped up than get a 2 wave hold down
No.
Two wave hold down, you come up, shake it off and get right back at it. Or maybe rest a bit, have a banana and get right back at it.
Scraped on the reef you’re probably done for the trip. Even if you get back to surfing it’s going to hurt, it’s going to affect your decisions. Then you have weeks to heal, reef growing under your skin, infections…
I’ll take twenty seconds of spin cycle over reef rash every time.
I prefer not to worry about either. Is it too much too ask for perpetually perfect head high sandy point break? Ok, I'll take cobblestones too.
hitting reef sucks but if you want to surf the majority of the worlds really good barreling waves better accept it.
Agree that hold downs are a million times better than reef battles, except for giant walls of frigid norcal water. FUCK YOU OCEAN BEACH
Agree that hold downs are a million times better than reef battles, except for giant walls of frigid norcal water. FUCK YOU OCEAN BEACH
Yeah, I'm fine not surfing any of those world class barrels, ever. It's the way it's going too so it'a good thing I don't mind this. All I want is a wave like Lowers for myself, forever and ever, nobody out. I don't see why that's asking too much...hitting reef sucks but if you want to surf the majority of the worlds really good barreling waves better accept it.
Agree that hold downs are a million times better than reef battles, except for giant walls of frigid norcal water. FUCK YOU OCEAN BEACH
The reef at Restaurants hates me. Left more skin and bits trunk there in 3 surfs than a dozen at Cloudbreak. When glassy though, the reef is mesmerizing when in the tube.
Always wanted to go to Tavarua but never really happened. Oh well. Cook Islands reefs were a little more dead due to that evil crown of thorns but absolutely that shallow tropical reef barrel view. I got mesmerized on my backhand parked on the foam ball for god knows how long and didn't snap out of it until I was in less than a foot of water and wave started to run. Tried to pump out of the pocket and high-jump over the top of it before getting drydocked- failed badly. Dragged headfiirst backwards right through the reef. I had the instinct to tuck my head up but got lots of slices all up and down my back, none of them super deep. So, so damn lucky - IIRC stayed out for a while but sat out a day after. Some scrapes to the deck but no dings or missing fins either.
I dry docked on the inside of a super fun right on my first indo trip. Such a rookie move. Dinged board and a ton of cuts. Got back on boat dripping blood everywhere .
everyone laughing at my dumbass for basically riding into the reef and not kicking out.
cuts were not bad just bled bad. They got me patched up and I was good to go.
Those fiji reefs look very very alive. Merciless!
everyone laughing at my dumbass for basically riding into the reef and not kicking out.
cuts were not bad just bled bad. They got me patched up and I was good to go.
Those fiji reefs look very very alive. Merciless!
Thats why I travel with Fire and EMTsAfter I did that, my friend there said I was too stupid to travel anywhere that doesn't have immediate on-hand medical attention.
Reef cuts don't bother me- as long as your wound management game is on point it's no drama.
A really hectic hold down at CB will deffo rattle you for the day though- seeing stars. Especially if you have a hangover from attempting to drink the bar dry.
A really hectic hold down at CB will deffo rattle you for the day though- seeing stars. Especially if you have a hangover from attempting to drink the bar dry.
id rather hit the reef all day than a 2 wave hold down. Ive hit the reef plenty of times, got stitched and back out the same day. Its instant - it barely hurts besides the lime juice nonsense. Its quick and happens in an instant, A 2 wave holddown on the other hand which ive had happen to me twice was terrifing, and left me contemplating if I wanted to surf waves like that ever again. For ref - this wasnt mavericks or anything. Just solid beachbreak.
Lost somewhere in a sea of bankers boxes in my attic is a DVD that has video of several of my great mishaps from a Ments trip years back. The commentary from the peanut gallery is priceless. If I can find it, I will post it for you to laugh at my misfortunes.
Any time I've ever traveled with firefighters/EMT's they were the type that were more inclined to laugh at you and hand you a bottle of Chinese red cap, then laugh at you as you jump around in pain.
My second to last day on Tavarua- cloud break got really big. Considerably bigger than the photo I posted. No crowd. I got a few medium set waves got cocky sitting way up the reef. Horizon went dark. No 2 wave hold downs but I took every wave of the set on the head. Easily 20 waves, a few of which were the biggest waves I’ve ever been in the water with, let alone wore the head. Terrifying and exciting and for a split second even thought “oh so this could be how I die”
Pushed all the way into the tower but did eventually manage to paddle off the side of the reef avoiding the walk. My adrenaline was spiked for hours. Or at least until we got back to the island
really need to get back. That kind of rush is addictive
Pushed all the way into the tower but did eventually manage to paddle off the side of the reef avoiding the walk. My adrenaline was spiked for hours. Or at least until we got back to the island
really need to get back. That kind of rush is addictive
Chinese red sauce and I are best buds haha.
Yea they are classic, they will patch up while laughing at you. .
These guys and I have traveled a bunch now and are like brothers, absolutely no mercy.
Oh it hurts bad? what you need to do is take some try-actin...
huh?...try-actin??
yea try acting like a man you sissy