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Becoming an older surfer
- Thread starter pastel
- Start date
i thought u were in ur 40's not ur 80's subway???
I actually learned to surf on a 5'6" Crozier slab single fin kneelo. 10 years ago when my spondy in my back was getting really bad I tried riding a kneeboard again. As soon as I popped up, onto my knees my hips would cramp up and if they didn't I'd end up with a really sore back anyway.
So I tried bodyboarding but the flex of the bodyboard combined with the hyperextension of my back when riding them also hurt.
Found that I could ride a fibreglass version of a bodyboard shaped for me with no problem. Didn't need to arch my back as much as on the bodyboard.
Only mentioning this in case someone reading this has tried one or two other alternatives to riding stand up boards and had no joy with their particular bodily roadblocks. Try different stuff if you have an open mind. One thing about riding prone is its pretty much always overhead.
My back pain became so bad at one point several years ago I quit surfing for a year.
For me loose boards are the answer. Thrusters cripple me. The torque on my lower back from the thruster's centre fin is the culprit.
My friend Jarrett Liu still charges on his paipo board. I'm guessing guarans in his mid 60s.
My whole body hurts when I think about where you put yourself for our enjoyment. As you’ve already figured out it can go from good to very bad in a heartbeat. You’re the classic adrenaline junkie, although smart enough to unwillingly hang up your gear when the time comes. As I’ve said before I’ve never been to the 808 but you gift me the essence of it every day and for that I’m most grateful.
Having said that, pickleball sounds @$kully level gayee.
nttawwt. Just sayin.
Thank’s for the Jocko photo, my all time favorite. I could re read the night at Waimea story a thousand times.
I remember way back OT posted a list of things by Jock’s mom that she considered essential in life. I was surprised to find out that outside of the sailing skills I had most of them covered to some degree. She was a teacher, right?
I remember that list...if anyone can find that post I would be stocked
I got to the point where i realized that i needed to take a break from social media ... not just the erbb but Instagram, FB, etc. It didn't take long for the stress levels to drop ... i had no idea how much it creates until i walked away. The longer i stayed away the better i felt. I've found that the best thing about getting older is that you finally figure out that you don't have to prove anything, need attention or have to give a f*ck about what other people think to be happy. Mrs. Flyinraptr and I are on our own journey .... we've been through some intense sh!t and now just living our lives in peace. I hope all is well with you.I was wondering what happened to you.
My tolerance for poor surfing manners is at an all-time low. After this last run of waves and a series of interactions with the unwashed masses, I may have to quit surfing again.
There are two types of back-paddlers - the entitled advanced or older surfer and the adult learner. The solution with the former is to hassle him - sit on him, get in his way when he paddles through everyone else, back-paddle him too. You might be able to have a friendly conversation with the latter about his manners. If that fails, burn him.
There's the broader question about whether it's worth it. Most of us are surfing garbage anyways, so you have to weigh whether it's all worth it.
getting rag dolled takes way more out of me than it used toGood advice for probably all of us, putting it into practice is the hard part. kudos