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Retiring In Centro
- Thread starter Ranga
- Start date
I got pulled over several times. Got out of it each time. First time, guy was nice, saw the family unit and warned us that we'd see plenty of cops. 2nd time was coming down the long hill entering Chiriqui. After following the slow truck for miles and miles, finally passed. Cop said I illegally crossed the yellow lines. I got out of my car and in my broken spanglish, looked down and said give me a break, there's no yellow line here. He let us go too. Interestingly on the way back to the City, the road was newly striped. Third time, we were in a known speed trap just east of David. The guy already had a motorcycle pulled over before me. My friend who lives in CR challenged the cop, asked to see calibration records, cop was pissed, we got let go there too. Motorcycle duu just paid the 20$ and split.
In David, I saw dozens of cops on motorcycles. One driver, one guy in back with the automatic. I felt pretty safe.
How are the waves in Las Lajas? That's within wave runner sight of Negrito isn't it?
I usually just say “infraccion? No infraccio…necessita una, una, que es la palabra…..Propina! Si? Necessita su Propina? Then I laugh and say “oh lo siento la tarifa!“ smile and hand him $20 and I smile just long enough to see him either chuckle or sometimes they even look sheepish as they take the $20 and wander back to their moped or if they’re lucky their police car
granted this is tico and Nica land. When I had to bribe a cop near k38 several years ago I was far more grave and acted/pretended like I was “paying the fine on the spot” and kept my smart ass shut and didn’t even let on that I speak passable travel Spanish
centAm cops in nica and tico just don’t seem as scary as Mexican cops.
the only state police I ever met who seemed honest and like they truly wanted to reclaim their country were the cops I spent time with one afternoon in a rented mansion above Punta Flores. You know that old cliff top multi level mansion right next to “miraflores” on the bluff way up that staircase above the beach, maybe 500 yards from the point itself?
anyway I had that to myself for 4 days, and one day about 10 cops showed up to check on the place for the owner…Scared the chit out of me at first until I realized they were just there as a courtesy check For the owner…not even checking on me, I was just as much a surprise for them. They were just there to check on the place, and maybe soak in the face melting views
They were led by a knock out of a female sergeant or whatever,- they all deferred to her, and she did most of the chatting with me. in fact a few of her crew were women. All fit, uniforms worn with pride and Bristol fashion even in el sal. Everyone civil and polite…
a few of the young guys were somewhat shocked and impressed that I was sitting on one of the 5 patios with a bottle of 12 year old and a tumbler lol. They even smelled the rum like teenagers and wrinkled their noses and laughed and looked at me with a mixture of awe of probably a degree of catholic judgment. For the amount of poor country drunks rolling around the wash at El Cuco itself, it was crazy how different and innocent these young cops were. The head lady knew I was a drunk But did not seem to hold it against me. She just probably assumed that’s what all rich American surfers were like
anyway, they were there to say hello to the beloved surgeon who owns the place, they look in on her often, as she spends a lot of time there with her big extended family and she seems to be a national treasure. So we spent a pleasant hour together chatting, roaming the grounds and levels and enjoying the views
the cops were super legit. Interested to learn what New York and “surf life” was like, they spoke about their jobs and the gang problems with honesty and remarkable eloquence (I speak Spanish, but this lady and her crew were getting profundo and I had been drinking flor de Cana since probably 11 am. I kept up as best I could)
in these little resort towns like el Cuco, the cops are authorized and instructed to shoot on sight any person showing gang tats or are found to be armed. No arrest, nothing. There used to be (maybe still there) a big sign welcoming you to Playa El Cuco , and also a big warning that any gang member will be shot on sight. Seemed to be a successful deterrent. Never saw a single face tat just hundreds of poor, hammered Salvadorans on their version of vacation. Whole family sleeps in a rented grass shack the size of a closet. Dad stays hammered on rotgut the whole time while the kids run around and the mothers sleep.
But these cops- they were true believers, and if Poor beautiful little El Salvador has a chance, its cops like that, and other decent public servants ,etc looking out for the good people in society…the gangs are pretty powerful I guess, but they are not unopposed. The place is just so poor, and banged up after decades of brutal civil war
I met the surgeon and part of her family on my last night, they all arrived in a maelstrom of laughter and chaos…and they invited me to their big raucous family dinner. One of the great memories of my life….she is everyone’s favorite Salvadoran grandma, except she is also a famous heart surgeon. Her extended family another fragile hope for el sal’s future….
Many (not all of course) cops I’ve come across or even exchanged pleasantries with in other countries have seemed suspect if not outright criminal. Sometimes even right here in New York <cough Gilgo murders cough>
these Salvadoran cops were Gunslingers. the boss lady and other veterans anyway.
none of them would even accept a shot or a thank you gift or anything. They thanked me as they left. Lol. Like I was their host
granted this is tico and Nica land. When I had to bribe a cop near k38 several years ago I was far more grave and acted/pretended like I was “paying the fine on the spot” and kept my smart ass shut and didn’t even let on that I speak passable travel Spanish
centAm cops in nica and tico just don’t seem as scary as Mexican cops.
the only state police I ever met who seemed honest and like they truly wanted to reclaim their country were the cops I spent time with one afternoon in a rented mansion above Punta Flores. You know that old cliff top multi level mansion right next to “miraflores” on the bluff way up that staircase above the beach, maybe 500 yards from the point itself?
anyway I had that to myself for 4 days, and one day about 10 cops showed up to check on the place for the owner…Scared the chit out of me at first until I realized they were just there as a courtesy check For the owner…not even checking on me, I was just as much a surprise for them. They were just there to check on the place, and maybe soak in the face melting views
They were led by a knock out of a female sergeant or whatever,- they all deferred to her, and she did most of the chatting with me. in fact a few of her crew were women. All fit, uniforms worn with pride and Bristol fashion even in el sal. Everyone civil and polite…
a few of the young guys were somewhat shocked and impressed that I was sitting on one of the 5 patios with a bottle of 12 year old and a tumbler lol. They even smelled the rum like teenagers and wrinkled their noses and laughed and looked at me with a mixture of awe of probably a degree of catholic judgment. For the amount of poor country drunks rolling around the wash at El Cuco itself, it was crazy how different and innocent these young cops were. The head lady knew I was a drunk But did not seem to hold it against me. She just probably assumed that’s what all rich American surfers were like
anyway, they were there to say hello to the beloved surgeon who owns the place, they look in on her often, as she spends a lot of time there with her big extended family and she seems to be a national treasure. So we spent a pleasant hour together chatting, roaming the grounds and levels and enjoying the views
the cops were super legit. Interested to learn what New York and “surf life” was like, they spoke about their jobs and the gang problems with honesty and remarkable eloquence (I speak Spanish, but this lady and her crew were getting profundo and I had been drinking flor de Cana since probably 11 am. I kept up as best I could)
in these little resort towns like el Cuco, the cops are authorized and instructed to shoot on sight any person showing gang tats or are found to be armed. No arrest, nothing. There used to be (maybe still there) a big sign welcoming you to Playa El Cuco , and also a big warning that any gang member will be shot on sight. Seemed to be a successful deterrent. Never saw a single face tat just hundreds of poor, hammered Salvadorans on their version of vacation. Whole family sleeps in a rented grass shack the size of a closet. Dad stays hammered on rotgut the whole time while the kids run around and the mothers sleep.
But these cops- they were true believers, and if Poor beautiful little El Salvador has a chance, its cops like that, and other decent public servants ,etc looking out for the good people in society…the gangs are pretty powerful I guess, but they are not unopposed. The place is just so poor, and banged up after decades of brutal civil war
I met the surgeon and part of her family on my last night, they all arrived in a maelstrom of laughter and chaos…and they invited me to their big raucous family dinner. One of the great memories of my life….she is everyone’s favorite Salvadoran grandma, except she is also a famous heart surgeon. Her extended family another fragile hope for el sal’s future….
Many (not all of course) cops I’ve come across or even exchanged pleasantries with in other countries have seemed suspect if not outright criminal. Sometimes even right here in New York <cough Gilgo murders cough>
these Salvadoran cops were Gunslingers. the boss lady and other veterans anyway.
none of them would even accept a shot or a thank you gift or anything. They thanked me as they left. Lol. Like I was their host
$20?? Fck see. You guys drive these prices up!! We gotta get tigether and agreeon these hehe.
Las Lajas sux. And yes Silvas Islands (m Negrito) you can see is right in front. I wonder Did any of you guys actually got to surf silva afuera? I have been to some spots in other countries, and I’d say those waves at silvas islands are pretty good guys.
Anyway any of you wanna come by I l’d help you out. Of course for free.
i don’t usually posts any pics of silvas. All i post is usually barqueta and the beachbreaks around puerto armuelles area (close to the costa rican border).
Surf is NOT world class but is really uncrowded. I get bored surfing by myself guys.
Las Lajas sux. And yes Silvas Islands (m Negrito) you can see is right in front. I wonder Did any of you guys actually got to surf silva afuera? I have been to some spots in other countries, and I’d say those waves at silvas islands are pretty good guys.
Anyway any of you wanna come by I l’d help you out. Of course for free.
i don’t usually posts any pics of silvas. All i post is usually barqueta and the beachbreaks around puerto armuelles area (close to the costa rican border).
Surf is NOT world class but is really uncrowded. I get bored surfing by myself guys.
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That’s what led me a ramblin in the first place
$20 seems reasonable to me, for gringos anyway. Sliding scale perhaps for locals and expats on a fixed income?
my lawyers and prop manager in CR tell me a lot of cops now demand $100 on the random traffic stops. More if you are drunk or have an open container etc. Nicaragua is far more reasonable.
Last guy I bribed in Nica even went through the motions of “being insulted” by my offer but I just kept that smile on my face, as open and innocent as I can muster, and he finally conceded that he did in fact want the cash (because he took it), and told me to drive safer (I was doing about 20 when he pulled me over lol). It was at that bridge/check point thing just south of Managua, so I was quite literally crawling along politely and safely through the check point area. They were pulling everyone over. I saw plenty of locals arguing heatedly with the cops.
that’s why I just laughed when he said “infraccion” and in Spanish I replied “infraction? There was no infraction. I was going 15 kph”
[QUOTE="paunch23, post: 3777484, member: 35658" And yes Silvas Islands (m Negrito) you can see is right in front. I wonder Did any of you guys actually got to surf silva afuera?
[/QUOTE]
yeah, we surfed outside silva quite a few times, 2-4‘overhead was biggest, had fun but it’s far from perfect, kinda sketchy if I remember correctly as it was nearly 25 years ago.
[/QUOTE]
yeah, we surfed outside silva quite a few times, 2-4‘overhead was biggest, had fun but it’s far from perfect, kinda sketchy if I remember correctly as it was nearly 25 years ago.
I'll be in CR (Playa Grande/Tamarindo) with my family for a month over the summer. Will have a rented full sized 4x4...curious what I should expect as far as police and tickets/bribes in that zone. Should I argue and ask for the ticket? Or just try and slide them $20? I sure aint paying $100 bribes...
I haven’t been back to costa since the bribes went up. I would think you just keep $40 folded in your passport and hand him that if he pulls you over and asks for your passport
might not even happen that often in the gringo Rica Parts of the country. The police are getting more and more heat for doing absolutely nothing to even pretend to go after rapists and ladrones violentas so maybe even the Highway shake downs have faded.
might not even happen that often in the gringo Rica Parts of the country. The police are getting more and more heat for doing absolutely nothing to even pretend to go after rapists and ladrones violentas so maybe even the Highway shake downs have faded.
got pulled over driving back to the airport after a week in northern nica, just me in the shuttle - shuttle driver told me these guys were serious and not to offer to bribe em, they went through everything, boards - clothes - bars of wax - unpacked all my stuff on the side of the road and were genuinely bummed I wasnt smuggling any drugs. Sucked to repack it all right there in a rush to make my plane.
ive been to CR like 15 times and never once had a run in with the popo. i always rent a car - drive like a normal human being and do my best to blend in. you should be fine.
Yeah my first half dozen times were drunk and highly irresponsible and I got away with it. Bribes booze cocaine and all. Cannot recommend such behavior but, this was 10-20 years ago (the drunk trips), so now as a sober Spanish speaking gringo with nothing to hide? (other than a few vapes but it’s not like it’s Russia) it’s a piece of cake driving around down there. Way easier overall than most of Mexico, I think it’s safe to say. you really don’t even see many cops except on the pan am highway and the occasional check point.
Of course there are sketchy parts of certain cities you wouldn’t want to get lost in, but otherwise, cruising around the countryside is a pleasure. Especially in NW Guanacaste. And with Waze being so accurate there now? You don’t even need to make sense of a poorly made inaccurate map of the dirt roads criss crossing the Nicoya peninsula. Waze will guide you right to your eco spa near Playa Grande
I’ve said it here before, years ago, and it holds true today: As annoying as certain towns and aspects have become, You gotta try REAL hard to fu*k up a trip to Costa Rica. It’s still a surfers and nature lovers paradise.
i hear local real estate sales have gone dead again after the buying frenzy of the late pandemic era…might be some more buying ops coming up soon for tropical dirt in epic places
Im personally over Santa Teresa but there are plenty of other cool towns that haven’t lost their charm and have consistent to sometimes great surf on tap
Of course there are sketchy parts of certain cities you wouldn’t want to get lost in, but otherwise, cruising around the countryside is a pleasure. Especially in NW Guanacaste. And with Waze being so accurate there now? You don’t even need to make sense of a poorly made inaccurate map of the dirt roads criss crossing the Nicoya peninsula. Waze will guide you right to your eco spa near Playa Grande
I’ve said it here before, years ago, and it holds true today: As annoying as certain towns and aspects have become, You gotta try REAL hard to fu*k up a trip to Costa Rica. It’s still a surfers and nature lovers paradise.
i hear local real estate sales have gone dead again after the buying frenzy of the late pandemic era…might be some more buying ops coming up soon for tropical dirt in epic places
Im personally over Santa Teresa but there are plenty of other cool towns that haven’t lost their charm and have consistent to sometimes great surf on tap
I've been to CR over 30 times. Been going every year since '91 and really haven't seen any popo but the place where I go has had a new police presence since they opened the new marina but still haven't had any issues and still have never been pulled over while driving. "Be good and you're good" ?
My buddy that lives there says it is illegal to drive without an open beer so I guess that is the key to success.?
In my case it was a bottle of flor de Cana but yes I believe it is some sort of requirement
“an American surfer driving a rental car, sober and no booze in his console or cup holder???”
Tico cop immediately says
yes this is my new favorite old meme. I will be using it regularly to regulate
“an American surfer driving a rental car, sober and no booze in his console or cup holder???”
Tico cop immediately says
yes this is my new favorite old meme. I will be using it regularly to regulate
Ya I've had about a half dozen of those kinds of trips to Costa and all over Mex 15-20 years ago...haven't been down that way in a while and will have the whole family unit this time, not too worried about it. Thanks for the input!Yeah my first half dozen times were drunk and highly irresponsible and I got away with it. Bribes booze cocaine and all. Cannot recommend such behavior but, this was 10-20 years ago (the drunk trips), so now as a sober Spanish speaking gringo with nothing to hide? (other than a few vapes but it’s not like it’s Russia) it’s a piece of cake driving around down there. Way easier overall than most of Mexico, I think it’s safe to say. you really don’t even see many cops except on the pan am highway and the occasional check point.
Of course there are sketchy parts of certain cities you wouldn’t want to get lost in, but otherwise, cruising around the countryside is a pleasure. Especially in NW Guanacaste. And with Waze being so accurate there now? You don’t even need to make sense of a poorly made inaccurate map of the dirt roads criss crossing the Nicoya peninsula. Waze will guide you right to your eco spa near Playa Grande
I’ve said it here before, years ago, and it holds true today: As annoying as certain towns and aspects have become, You gotta try REAL hard to fu*k up a trip to Costa Rica. It’s still a surfers and nature lovers paradise.
i hear local real estate sales have gone dead again after the buying frenzy of the late pandemic era…might be some more buying ops coming up soon for tropical dirt in epic places
Im personally over Santa Teresa but there are plenty of other cool towns that haven’t lost their charm and have consistent to sometimes great surf on tap
Follow up question, I am finally in a place in my life financially that purchasing some dirt in Centro is actually possible...best places to look these days?
Think seriously about long term rental or lease unless you’re planning to spend the majority of your time (10 months/year) there and are a diy Spanish speaker.