For those TSJ subscribers, you'll be able to stream this video between, November 10-14. Here's the trailer. Looks interesting.
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Did you see it? I don’t have a subscription for tsj but I’d watch if I did.Sounds like a piece of bland hero worship.
The only area they tried to show another face of him was during his king of the pipeline days. They showed him stuffing a bunch of guys because he had a ruthless side too. The narrater was saying you cant be the best pipe surfer in the world on yoga and style alone. You need to have the other side. Then they showed his alpha side charging non makes and stuffing haoles. I say all this as a fan. I just wanted some more yang vs the all in yin.Sounds like a piece of bland hero worship.
Sounds like a piece of bland hero worship.
Didn't see the documentary, but always got the impression he was a cocky asshole who became a little less cocky asshole in his older years...but always has it simmering beneath the surface of a phony nice-guy yoga+granola image. "The safest place on the wave is in the tube" and "When in doubt paddle out"In all fairness if the entire hero lauding surf world is sucking your pepis as the GOAT it'd be hard not to be a cocky mf'er. Reading some of his more obscure magazine interviews from the 70's kinda reinforced that impression he was just another superstar living up his fame - I was never surprised to see his name pop up on the Costco boards.The only area they tried to show another face of him was during his king of the pipeline days. They showed him stuffing a bunch of guys because he had a ruthless side too. The narrater was saying you cant be the best pipe surfer in the world on yoga and style alone. You need to have the other side. Then they showed his alpha side charging non makes and stuffing haoles. I say all this as a fan. I just wanted some more yang vs the all in yin.
Wow. Bend is spendy.Looks like he took his house in Bend off the market last year. Horrible sense of decor:
This one is absurd.Wow. Bend is spendy.
enjoyed the movie - thanks for sharing!Now available on YouTube. Check it out!
Never bothered me. Someone’s going to do it.
Somebody should have asked him about Lightning Bolt Colitas, and why he had to leave Hawaii. It's a great story that many would like to forget.The only area they tried to show another face of him was during his king of the pipeline days. They showed him stuffing a bunch of guys because he had a ruthless side too. The narrater was saying you cant be the best pipe surfer in the world on yoga and style alone. You need to have the other side. Then they showed his alpha side charging non makes and stuffing haoles. I say all this as a fan. I just wanted some more yang vs the all in yin.