I recently started body surging so I could wave-ride while my knee is still healing. In the past, it was only something I did occasionally if I happened to be at a shorebreak spot with no board. This time around I'm swimming out at OBSF without fins or paipo. Just body. It's an incredible workout, but I'm having trouble getting into waves early enough to go down the line.
Can anyone share technique tips for taking off and riding the wave without gear?
Can anyone share technique tips for taking off and riding the wave without gear?