Do you ride the left? I like the midface rock.
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***Official 2022 Community Surf Journal***
- Thread starter Kento
- Start date
found a few lucky ones in the dying swell. (now) overfoamed, beaten, and perfect for the softer days 6'3 bulkley still running strong and delivering goods years later and lbs less
Did a classic surf check yesterday.
Out front, everything looked exactly how it's looked for the last 2 weeks. Overly wedged closeouts at the north end with a thick crowd. Soft, shouldery burgers in the mid-south zone. So I drove south, found much of the same, just farther away from home and in a different county. I got all the way to some more punchy, out of the way beach breaks and got stuck on the 1 with construction traffic. Finally I turned around and parked at the end of my street to paddle out. Got a few low tide straighthanders on the Mini Glider by myself in the sun.
Out front, everything looked exactly how it's looked for the last 2 weeks. Overly wedged closeouts at the north end with a thick crowd. Soft, shouldery burgers in the mid-south zone. So I drove south, found much of the same, just farther away from home and in a different county. I got all the way to some more punchy, out of the way beach breaks and got stuck on the 1 with construction traffic. Finally I turned around and parked at the end of my street to paddle out. Got a few low tide straighthanders on the Mini Glider by myself in the sun.
slow with some softies on the mitsimmons. Board hipsters pretty damn hard.
I’m out of town for a week starting tomorrow on a non surf trip. Hopefully that sends some waves this way for you guys.
had a blast today. thing feels like a shortboar for old men. got a backside end section reo and a couple connect the dots fs waves. left the water with a grin. about 20 waves in 1.25 hrs. thickish crowd but i was uncontested for the most part
Gentlemens hour quickie at reef 2. Saw a couple fun ones, then as I was paddling out, the wind came up, "put some texture" on it as surfline would say. Pack of heavy locals jumped off the rock as I paddled out: 6 grey spotted sea lions. One kept looking back over his shoulder and giving me the stink eye.
when I got outside, there was just a guy and a girl out that were surfing the lefts. Stuck to the right and got a few crumbly WH ones where the 6'4 plasmEgg was able to take off behind the peak, work around the section and out to the shoulder, gutback/slash back to the pocket, and repeat a couple times to connect the dots through the inside. The couple went in after the next set, so had the place to myself for the last 30 min, which was nice. Best wave was the left at the end, as it stood up with some steeper sections and I was a able to get some bside carves in that felt real nice. I tend to cruise on this boar, but it always pleasantly surprises me how well it turns when I consciously get back on the tail. Just an ultimate cheater crutch boar!
Old s/s full (so stretched it’s really a 1mil now) was still wet, so I was overheating in a 2 mil, even with the onshore. Ready or not, gonna switch to a jacket n trunks.
when I got outside, there was just a guy and a girl out that were surfing the lefts. Stuck to the right and got a few crumbly WH ones where the 6'4 plasmEgg was able to take off behind the peak, work around the section and out to the shoulder, gutback/slash back to the pocket, and repeat a couple times to connect the dots through the inside. The couple went in after the next set, so had the place to myself for the last 30 min, which was nice. Best wave was the left at the end, as it stood up with some steeper sections and I was a able to get some bside carves in that felt real nice. I tend to cruise on this boar, but it always pleasantly surprises me how well it turns when I consciously get back on the tail. Just an ultimate cheater crutch boar!
Old s/s full (so stretched it’s really a 1mil now) was still wet, so I was overheating in a 2 mil, even with the onshore. Ready or not, gonna switch to a jacket n trunks.
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8 days of massive onshore mess last week. Lots of snow in the mountains and 150000 lightning strikes.
Towards the end of it a mysto peak formed in a protected corner, and I had two days of getting pummelled and dragged up the coast by a hell sweep. Some fun ones, though.
This week it's been small to tiny with perfect weather. A very nice peak formed, mostly away from prying eyes, and I had three days of great little waves. Chest high, and only 2 or 3 of us out sharing rights and lefts. Not exciting waves, but about as pleasant as surfing gets.
Back on my 6yo Pyzel Nugget. DInged to bits, but somehow still sound. Great little performance almost-groveler.
Edit: And just when things were going well, I finally caught Covid from my wife. Ah well.
Towards the end of it a mysto peak formed in a protected corner, and I had two days of getting pummelled and dragged up the coast by a hell sweep. Some fun ones, though.
This week it's been small to tiny with perfect weather. A very nice peak formed, mostly away from prying eyes, and I had three days of great little waves. Chest high, and only 2 or 3 of us out sharing rights and lefts. Not exciting waves, but about as pleasant as surfing gets.
Back on my 6yo Pyzel Nugget. DInged to bits, but somehow still sound. Great little performance almost-groveler.
Edit: And just when things were going well, I finally caught Covid from my wife. Ah well.
Sorry haven’t been posting daily updates.
Waves have been fun. The QS contest was done a couple of days ago. The last day fired except for a couple of heats that got inconsistent. Couple of neighbor island pros surfed yesterday but today they weren’t out for the dawn patrol. Back to normal, in fact it wasn’t that crowded.
I just sat inside cause I have a sore throat and didn’t want to get endless Covid questions. But it backfired cause everyone was asking why I’m sitting in there. Finally couldn’t take watching some of my friends getting sets without me so I sat outside to get sets.
Still head high. Kinda needed a little more water but got a few nuggets. Got a really good one to go in and after my first top turn saw a guy right in my line but he duck dove deep. I would normally not run him over but that’s what I did. Got another 3 turns in and proned in.
Couple of smaller days over the weekend and a promising forecast to start next week. Cheee
Waves have been fun. The QS contest was done a couple of days ago. The last day fired except for a couple of heats that got inconsistent. Couple of neighbor island pros surfed yesterday but today they weren’t out for the dawn patrol. Back to normal, in fact it wasn’t that crowded.
I just sat inside cause I have a sore throat and didn’t want to get endless Covid questions. But it backfired cause everyone was asking why I’m sitting in there. Finally couldn’t take watching some of my friends getting sets without me so I sat outside to get sets.
Still head high. Kinda needed a little more water but got a few nuggets. Got a really good one to go in and after my first top turn saw a guy right in my line but he duck dove deep. I would normally not run him over but that’s what I did. Got another 3 turns in and proned in.
Couple of smaller days over the weekend and a promising forecast to start next week. Cheee
Sideshore wind already up at gentlemen's hour on the dropping tide with 10-15 guys out. Grabbed the 5'10 mini-asym. Was punchier than I expected and found the upper end of this board. Did fine when I could angle in, but a couple square ones that forced me to drop straight in had the wide square tail lifting a bit... managed to wrangle it and stick the drops, but then was stranded at the trough without momentum so wasn't able to make it around the next section. Aside from those two waves, some fun lil WH wedgy runners with crumbly sections to slice or float.
Ran into a buddy out there. Former local pro in his younger days and the guy still rips hard in his 40's now. He was ridin his cheater boar... a R. Dwart as quad. Seen them around for years, and they always look fun, but never tried one. We took turns on the rights and it was more fun than expected. Maybe I should've given the used MiniGhost its first surf in those conditions.
Ran into a buddy out there. Former local pro in his younger days and the guy still rips hard in his 40's now. He was ridin his cheater boar... a R. Dwart as quad. Seen them around for years, and they always look fun, but never tried one. We took turns on the rights and it was more fun than expected. Maybe I should've given the used MiniGhost its first surf in those conditions.
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Last surf was Tuesday. Hottest day of the year so far. Forecast was high 70s but it rounded out to about mid 80s on the beach and low 90s in the city. Stunning day, no wind for most of the day. didn't get motivated by the cam as it looked like more of the same, so I slow played the day. Did the full family kook trip, loaded the wagon with a tent, beach gear, and a mini glider for the walk in case I lucked into something. The wife and I took the 3 month old down for his first taste of the beach with the intention of just cruising for a sunny midday cruise out front.
We walked up over the sand pile at the mid south zone (they're dragging all the sand off the highway and away from the seawall in 10 foot piles to be redistributed by a dozer) and the conditions were the best I've seen all summer. 3 bars of peaky, shoulder to head high waves right in front of our set up. I was pretty bummed I didn't bring a shortboard, but I sure wasn't going to walk half a mile back to the house to get it. After I set up the new beach tent (I'll be returning it. I don't need poles in my beach life) and getting the wife and lil mans situated, my wife saw I was getting antsy and told me to head out.
Paddled out, nobody on the bar, and got a few of the best waves I've had this summer. They were mostly slopey on the takeoff, allowing for the delayed pop up on the Mini GLider where you load a ton of speed before standing up. Then they would wall up a bit more. I get 3-4 and came in to check on things. Wifey green lit me, so I went out for a few more. I got one, then got stuck on the other side of the rip and got dragged down a block where I got caught in the impact zone of a set that was on a little more intense section. I thought I was going to get destroyed by the first one on my 7'10", but i just got dragged back enough for the far less assuming wave after that to blow my board out of my hands. I didn't have a leash, so a 10 minute swim was on deck. I also let out an audible "Oh sh!t!" when something popped up and swim underneath me. The shark attack in Monterey had me on edge. Luckily, a friendly seal popped up 15 feet away and looked disinterested in me. I called it a day after that.
We walked up over the sand pile at the mid south zone (they're dragging all the sand off the highway and away from the seawall in 10 foot piles to be redistributed by a dozer) and the conditions were the best I've seen all summer. 3 bars of peaky, shoulder to head high waves right in front of our set up. I was pretty bummed I didn't bring a shortboard, but I sure wasn't going to walk half a mile back to the house to get it. After I set up the new beach tent (I'll be returning it. I don't need poles in my beach life) and getting the wife and lil mans situated, my wife saw I was getting antsy and told me to head out.
Paddled out, nobody on the bar, and got a few of the best waves I've had this summer. They were mostly slopey on the takeoff, allowing for the delayed pop up on the Mini GLider where you load a ton of speed before standing up. Then they would wall up a bit more. I get 3-4 and came in to check on things. Wifey green lit me, so I went out for a few more. I got one, then got stuck on the other side of the rip and got dragged down a block where I got caught in the impact zone of a set that was on a little more intense section. I thought I was going to get destroyed by the first one on my 7'10", but i just got dragged back enough for the far less assuming wave after that to blow my board out of my hands. I didn't have a leash, so a 10 minute swim was on deck. I also let out an audible "Oh sh!t!" when something popped up and swim underneath me. The shark attack in Monterey had me on edge. Luckily, a friendly seal popped up 15 feet away and looked disinterested in me. I called it a day after that.
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From a couple weeks ago. Thats is a non set wave. overhead slabby, just a handful of regulars out. absolutely firing for about an hr n a 1/2. Then wind n tide came up, turning it into chest high garbage.
awesome session.
Was outa the water for a week n bagged some racey glas chest high close outs Wednesday, but beautiful morning n peak all to myself.
possibly a solid score this mornin, we’ll see
Had fun the past two mornings on the 6'8" Sakal Sabre twin. Lots of current/rips/funk, but some nugs
to be found if you could snag them. Got a few of those this morning. Kind of a roll-in takeoff that would then
wall up with one or two or three bowly sections to fly across before either kicking out over the back or
doing a fs wrap if it backed off a bit. Good fun. I really like that board...it's coming to Mex on Tues.
to be found if you could snag them. Got a few of those this morning. Kind of a roll-in takeoff that would then
wall up with one or two or three bowly sections to fly across before either kicking out over the back or
doing a fs wrap if it backed off a bit. Good fun. I really like that board...it's coming to Mex on Tues.
I surfed like ass at high tide last night. Walled and there was a side wave reflecting off the pier on the left. A couple of corners.
I drank mead on the way home. It was like a ren fair inside and I felt goonshame.
I drank mead on the way home. It was like a ren fair inside and I felt goonshame.
One big pile of ugh. Right shoulder has been killing me, got referred to physical therapy on Monday. Needed. Left shoulder got tetanus shot. And have a pulled abdominal muscle on left side from who the fuck knows what but exacerbated at this inflatable Splash Zone at Lake Siskiyou last weekend; pushups did not help this.
Anyways, yay, more 7' at 9 secs. Channel let me out relatively unscathed but current was relentless and it was shifty as hell, not just side to side but 100 yards in and out too. It's really fucking up my surfing; I know I can't accelerate paddling quickly wearing 5 mil of rubber (the board literally doesn't matter) and there is almost no time to figure out where next wave is breaking when they're coming every few seconds. Missing a lot of good waves as a result and then taking multiple ones on the head. Got a few OK ones that I surfed mediocrely. But current was horrible; you got caught inside, 5 duck dives later, you were 200 yards inside and behind the sandbar. Did a few laps but was over it quickly.
I need a surf trip with warm water and paddling less than 3 miles per session. SoCal in a few weeks will be nice.
Anyways, yay, more 7' at 9 secs. Channel let me out relatively unscathed but current was relentless and it was shifty as hell, not just side to side but 100 yards in and out too. It's really fucking up my surfing; I know I can't accelerate paddling quickly wearing 5 mil of rubber (the board literally doesn't matter) and there is almost no time to figure out where next wave is breaking when they're coming every few seconds. Missing a lot of good waves as a result and then taking multiple ones on the head. Got a few OK ones that I surfed mediocrely. But current was horrible; you got caught inside, 5 duck dives later, you were 200 yards inside and behind the sandbar. Did a few laps but was over it quickly.
I need a surf trip with warm water and paddling less than 3 miles per session. SoCal in a few weeks will be nice.
Dawned the regular. It was small but clean. Rode the Striker which is a small good wave boar. Got a couple of little nuggets, got left behind on some runners, got a few leftover head high sets.
Almost feel like ordering a true groveller. A fish or a really flat stubby, which would’ve been money today. But riding those types of boars throws me off getting back on more performance thrusters when the waves get just a tad better.
Funny thing happened this past week. First day of the QS I paddled over to Rockpiles just before the comp started. Stayed out too long trying to get a good one in. Finally I sat inside where I know I can pick off a little bowl to go in.
A set rolls in but 2 longboars are just a little too far outside and it rolled under them. In the meantime this guy on a Costco softie is telling me to paddle they’re going to miss it. I looked over to see who was trying to coach me and seeing the donkey on the Costco POS I felt personally insulted. He’s chirping away, get ready they’re going to miss it. Wanted to yell shut the f*ck up I surf circles around you f*cking kook. My sister is just a little outside of me so I’m telling her to go, paddle hard. Costkook is chirping she’s going to miss it. I didn’t want to whip cause I didn’t want my sister to give up. I wait to the last second when it goes under her and I slingshot take off on a little chest high wave. I’m so irritated I smash the first turn and it goes soft but I ride it in. As I was standing up Costkook was saying told you.
It’s funny cause we coach each other at Bowls to get waves. Go deep, paddle in, etc. But I just couldn’t take it from that donkey. I told the Bowls dawn crew and they were just cracking up. Jeannie said I wish I saw that. Hahaha.
Almost feel like ordering a true groveller. A fish or a really flat stubby, which would’ve been money today. But riding those types of boars throws me off getting back on more performance thrusters when the waves get just a tad better.
Funny thing happened this past week. First day of the QS I paddled over to Rockpiles just before the comp started. Stayed out too long trying to get a good one in. Finally I sat inside where I know I can pick off a little bowl to go in.
A set rolls in but 2 longboars are just a little too far outside and it rolled under them. In the meantime this guy on a Costco softie is telling me to paddle they’re going to miss it. I looked over to see who was trying to coach me and seeing the donkey on the Costco POS I felt personally insulted. He’s chirping away, get ready they’re going to miss it. Wanted to yell shut the f*ck up I surf circles around you f*cking kook. My sister is just a little outside of me so I’m telling her to go, paddle hard. Costkook is chirping she’s going to miss it. I didn’t want to whip cause I didn’t want my sister to give up. I wait to the last second when it goes under her and I slingshot take off on a little chest high wave. I’m so irritated I smash the first turn and it goes soft but I ride it in. As I was standing up Costkook was saying told you.
It’s funny cause we coach each other at Bowls to get waves. Go deep, paddle in, etc. But I just couldn’t take it from that donkey. I told the Bowls dawn crew and they were just cracking up. Jeannie said I wish I saw that. Hahaha.