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Blacks
- Thread starter bluengreen
- Start date
It gets very big(IMO). I don't.
Old 2005 footage:
More recent footage:
Old 2005 footage:
More recent footage:
Ask @Truth , he's been out when it's maxing.
On days like the second video I ride a 7'3.
Once it's head high plus I always want more beef out there
Because on the head high days there's a good chance some sets will be coming through that are significantly bigger, and if you are undergunned you can forget about catching any.
Blacks has been ruined by YouTube kooks. The level of clownery out there should have you on a 7'6"minimum if you want set waves.
I'm not sure there has ever been a spot that has gone downhill (no pun intended) as fast as Blacks. I wish someone would beat the crap out of that SocalSurfer guy that films every single swell.
I'm not sure there has ever been a spot that has gone downhill (no pun intended) as fast as Blacks. I wish someone would beat the crap out of that SocalSurfer guy that films every single swell.
The first time I surfed it, a couple months ago or so, it was head high... except when it was well overhead and breaking thirty yards farther out. It's a big playing field, on my 5'10 chilli RB I was basically relying on waves coming to me. Can only imagine that on maxing days one would need a big @ss blackbird.
didn't see anything much worthy of surfing in the "day of the year" clip
if you like going straight catching closeouts with the odd coverup, maybe
usually the spot isn't worth surfing anything more than 2x overhead
i'd rather drive and surf non closeouts than possibly get a 2-3 second "tube"
Want to shred the gnar? Sit inside on the 5'10" and take sets on the head.
Want to have fun? Sit outside, wait, and catch sets on the 7'6".
I've been out many times (long time ago) when waves had 20 foot faces. It can be perfect. One memorable session, I struggled on a 7'6". Joe Lazar had a 9 footer and was catching sets. Cordon Basil had an 8'6" and did ok. The one successful wave I caught peeled all the way to the shore. SDSurfer's videos often seem to have less than ideal conditions.
The main thing is, the good waves have a serious sideways component. BIgger boards can impedance match much better. Rarely are you just paddling straight to shore to catch one.
Ask yourself, do you want to be under the lip for a sketchy takeoff or do you want to be one with all the water momentum?
For Grom's Dad, So many times on the longboar where I'm bottom turning at speed before any shortboarer has even started paddling.
it's a rarity, most big days are typically walled a crowded with donkeys thinking they're "charging"
How big does it get?? It gets GIANT,
First two photos are the same day, with 1 guy on the peak all afternoon while many claimed they surfed it,
That's our boy @Truth in the foreground WAY WAY on the down the beach Hahah
First two photos are the same day, with 1 guy on the peak all afternoon while many claimed they surfed it,
That's our boy @Truth in the foreground WAY WAY on the down the beach Hahah
Attachments
8'6 does the job on the biggest days - - 7'2 on 2 x 3 x overhead
surf talk
One of the biggest days I have surfed out there was nuts - about 5 years ago - Grey was only one out (Pascuales Madman) late afternoon windy, cloudy and HUGE - not good conditions - I love those days
Walked way down to paddle out - saw him get a beast - 25 ft + face I would say
Then he went in and I was only one out - lifeguard Juan flashed his lights at me as sign they were leaving - was all alone
got a bomb, under the hook into a HUGE HOUSE size barrel - made it out and should have went in but scratched back out for one more
It was getting dark and I realized was a mistake staying out - second guessing myself (not good) ended up paddling back towards Scripps and paddled in with my tail between my legs - walking back to car and saw the largest set I think I have ever seen down there - there was no one but me on the beach - was ENORMOUS
Place gets heavy! I mean 'got" heavy - seems like it was way better in 90's and 2000's -routinely would see guys get insane indoesque tubes at south peak
surf talk
One of the biggest days I have surfed out there was nuts - about 5 years ago - Grey was only one out (Pascuales Madman) late afternoon windy, cloudy and HUGE - not good conditions - I love those days
Walked way down to paddle out - saw him get a beast - 25 ft + face I would say
Then he went in and I was only one out - lifeguard Juan flashed his lights at me as sign they were leaving - was all alone
got a bomb, under the hook into a HUGE HOUSE size barrel - made it out and should have went in but scratched back out for one more
It was getting dark and I realized was a mistake staying out - second guessing myself (not good) ended up paddling back towards Scripps and paddled in with my tail between my legs - walking back to car and saw the largest set I think I have ever seen down there - there was no one but me on the beach - was ENORMOUS
Place gets heavy! I mean 'got" heavy - seems like it was way better in 90's and 2000's -routinely would see guys get insane indoesque tubes at south peak
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Love it. Thanks, guys. Truth, you sound like a gnarly dude. I'm guessing it wants a long interval super west swell. Just asking because there's a chance I'm leaving my beloved OBSF and returning to my ancestral homeland, The Whale's Vagina. -- or as Doc Flavanoid would put it, tucking tranny like a bitch, good riddance. Will have big boards and be looking for juice.
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If this move happens, Swamis my local. I will respectfully work my way back into the lineup for 6 months before sitting way outside everyone to wait for bombs on my 8'6.
South Peak can handle 20'+ faces. Those days are very rare. The crowd component has ruined it. Guys thinking they are WSL pros riding 6'8"s littering the inside making it impossible to take a clean line, bailing boards, etc....
You can still get it with a few guys out on big days from time to time but they are more often like the days Truth described.....
You can still get it with a few guys out on big days from time to time but they are more often like the days Truth described.....
pretty much. another spin of the wheel and whats old is new again.
touch of melancholy knowing ur a better paddler and a worse surfer for it all.
@Truth are you a good enough swimmer that if you lose your board when it's maxing out there, you're cool getting back in?
I think my line of noping out(at any spot) happens any time I think I would drown without my board. Huge beach breaks are scary for that reason. I can't swim indefinitely while taking fifteen second pauses in breathing to get smashed and rolled.
I think my line of noping out(at any spot) happens any time I think I would drown without my board. Huge beach breaks are scary for that reason. I can't swim indefinitely while taking fifteen second pauses in breathing to get smashed and rolled.
One more reason I like kneeboarding. My biggest bodysurfing tubes have been on the swim in after a broken board or leash at big Blacks or Pascuales.