I once read a comment on a YouTube video of pipe saying something along the lines of "I love how the surfers use the power of the waves."
Now I believe this raises an interesting question: is the energy produced by a breaking wave only caused by gravity (and the toppling of the wave peak), or is there another origin of the energy involved?
Thoughts?
Now I believe this raises an interesting question: is the energy produced by a breaking wave only caused by gravity (and the toppling of the wave peak), or is there another origin of the energy involved?
Thoughts?