Is surfing ONLY about harnessing the power of gravity and nothing to do with the power of waves/water?

[JJJJS]

I once read a comment on a YouTube video of pipe saying something along the lines of "I love how the surfers use the power of the waves."

Now I believe this raises an interesting question: is the energy produced by a breaking wave only caused by gravity (and the toppling of the wave peak), or is there another origin of the energy involved?

Thoughts?

 

[LifeOnMars]

you may want to consult with Poseidon King of the Sea, he'll steer you in the right direction

 

[Kento]

Lateral push is a major factor. I'd venture even more so than gravity. Speed of the waves, slope of the bottom surface, etc. Think about it when you turn and spin for a wave late. It's a lot harder to do that on waves with more of that lateral push.

Compare, say, a 6' wave at Del Mar and a 2' wave in Hawaii. The wave in Hawaii will have more power by far.

 

[TeamScam]

You the surfer can potentially put in a lot too. Cycling is a super efficient example of force applied, fuel/carlories propels you. Compare to running fast, (which is less efficient). Surfing you are adding to it at ever changing levels of efficiency, like trimming vs racing along clean wall, you can put in very little sometimes and really fly, or you can frantically hop to make the inside, but either way you are tapping into both those previously mentioned, latteral and gravitational you utilize those with your own. Sorry im just rambling on.
I feel trolled.

 

[JJJJS]

Lateral push is a major factor. I'd venture even more so than gravity. Speed of the waves, slope of the bottom surface, etc. Think about it when you turn and spin for a wave late. It's a lot harder to do that on waves with more of that lateral push.

Compare, say, a 6' wave at Del Mar and a 2' wave in Hawaii. The wave in Hawaii will have more power by far.

I didn't really consider lateral push/force. Something to look into.

 

[JJJJS]

You the surfer can potentially put in a lot too. Cycling is a super efficient example of force applied, fuel/carlories propels you. Compare to running fast, (which is less efficient). Surfing you are adding to it at ever changing levels of efficiency, like trimming vs racing along clean wall, you can put in very little sometimes and really fly, or you can frantically hop to make the inside, but either way you are tapping into both those previously mentioned, latteral and gravitational you utilize those with your own. Sorry im just rambling on.
I feel trolled.

Don't worry I'm not trolling - it was just something I was mulling over in the lineup today.

 

[JJJJS]

you may want to consult with Poseidon King of the Sea, he'll steer you in the right direction

I was thinking more modern physics than hellenic esotericism, but both are interesting.

 

[potato-nator]

Zuckerburg might know...

 

[kelpcutter]

In dealing with problems connected with gravity waves, scientists and engineers frequently find it necessary to make lengthy theoretical calculations involving such wave characteristics as wave height, wave length, period, and water depth. Several approximate theoretical expressions have been derived relating the above parameters. Airy, for instance, contributed a very valuable and complete theory for waves traveling over a horizontal bottom in any depth of water. Due to the simplicity of the Airy theory, it is frequently used by engineers. This theory, however, was developed for waves of very small heights and is inaccurate for waves of finite height. Stokes presented a similar solution for waves of finite height by use of trigonometric series. Using five terms in the series, this solution will extend the range covered by the Airy theory to waves of greater steepness. ...

 

[sickdog]

Foil surfing has greatly diminished the perceived effects of gravity in propelling surfboards. When, on a wave, you go up to the crest, then turn back down with a heavy "push", (like on a swing), then more so.

 

[kidfury]

skiing/snowboarding is all gravity. You lose speed going uphill. You can gain speed going up the face of an ocean wave.

 

[SFKneelo]

skiing/snowboarding is all gravity. You lose speed going uphill. You can gain speed going up the face of an ocean wave.

and apply the slope fall line of skiing to surfing...

 

[SurfFuerteventura]

Wind, period.

/thread.

 

[LelandCuz]

Yes, all gravity. Except when you make a top turn right in the lip and use the throwing lip to push you back down into the wave. At that moment you are using the wave's energy. The rest of the time you're using the wave's energy to go up the face during pumps and mid-face bottom turns but it's gravity pulling you back down that generates speed. Even pumping a foil on a 1 1/2 foot roller, it's gravity doing the work. 1 1/2' is plenty to get speed, so long as you can get back up to the top without losing all the speed. Skateboards and bikes do that by pumping. Surfboards and foils do it by pumping and the lifting force of the wave. A more powerful wave feels faster because it's steeper (less drag interfering with gravity trying to pull you down).