***Official 2021 Community Surf Journal***

[oeste858]

reef #2
Tide: dropping
Surf: clean knee to waist high runners.
Crowd: 15-20
Didn’t know what they’re doing: 80%

Scoreboard:
6’7 Townsend crowdkiller: 1…
Kooks: 0

Suck it, Kooks!
Caught every wave I paddled for. Easy speed and trim but still turns well from the tail. Impressed.

 

[santacruzin]

surfed the super shallow rocky place at low tide. pulled into one micro drainer and got one wave that allowed a turn.
for today that was a win.

 

[ReForest]

surfed the super shallow rocky place at low tide. pulled into one micro drainer and got one wave that allowed a turn.
for today that was a win.

Your spot has been looking gooood.

 

[silentbutdeadly]

buddy in hb said beach was packed with hs surf teams and they had a contest going on. jerseys, heat timers on the beach, announcers, parents watching, the whole nine yards. all this one a school day. i was in south oc same thing. i asked the lifeguard and he said they don't have a permit so u can surf in their contest if u want lol. it's bad enough that instead of the usual 20-30 ppl out at dawn, we now have 60-70 bc of their surf team. we also now have contests on a school day. nutz. wish localism would return. dark days ahead.

There should be tickets issued for the fvckfoolery bullshart

 

[Mr J]

Here on Oahu we have sooooo many surf schools, surf coaches and surf guides that at the first mention of coaching is cringe. But you aren’t on Oahu. So I think it’s great you want to improve and are willing to invest time, money and energy into making that happen.
... .

yeah Teeroi, no problem here with me signing up for some lessons. The local surf industry all seem to know each other and get along fine in a cooperating/competing ecosystem. Yes I do have the time, the budget and interest to pursue a self improvement program. I got the camera, the boar and the surf too. My capacity to learn is going to be the main limiter. What I don't have much of is "spare time". Between my keyboard job and all the surfing I'm doing there isn't much time to say watch TV (which is why I don't have one).

I went to the skatepark twice this week too - normal skateboard, but I do have some surf skate homework to do from the lesson. I did watch the IG vid of you - ripping man! From the advice you gave me and the way you described your approach to your attempts on the blow tail snap it seems like you do put some thought into your surfing and you have got there from growing up and surfing in the your local Oahu environment. In contrast I think some structured tuition is going to help me, learning good technique has not come naturally for me. The lesson technique adjustment is not feeling natural. On one of my lesson waves yesterday I managed 3 turns putting into practice the body rotation and arm movement to one direction correctly, but it wasn't until the 3rd turn that I remembered what my instructor called the "recovery position". It feels like I am learning to conduct an orchestra rather than surf. However I can feel potential when I was practicing putting it together on yesterday's solo arvo session.

I've also realised that it can actually be fun to get some instruction, some of that comes down to the instructor.

 

[teeroi]

@ Mr J. F*ck yeah duu

When you have to think about your technique while surfing it’s uncomfortable. But you build up muscle memory and it’ll come together when turns comes without thinking about it. You got all the building blocks.

Been watching @ReForest clips on his gram and he’s been surfing better. The solo shot vids looks like they’ve been helping him too. He just gotta put those little boars away for the winter and get shredding on a pintail thruster step up when the north swells roll in. Haha

 

[santacruzin]

There should be tickets issued for the fvckfoolery bullshart

I did have one fucktard moment today. Longboard guy is sitting wide and taking almost every wide set. I wasnt mad because the better ones were inside over the boil anyway. The wide ones looked bigger but would shoulder off and burger.

So after a lot of waiting one is comin right to me, didnt even have to move and only took a few paddles. meanwhile I am watching this Idiot sprint paddling over to burn me.
Of course he shoulder hops and crushes it right where I wanted to turn.


I paddle back out:
Longboard guy "Hey man I am sorry"
Me "yea that was pretty lame especially since you are sitting outside taking every wide set.
LB guy: I didnt think you would make it

I went full Kenny Powers " Listen buddy I make every wave out here" hahahaha
Old guy next to me started cracking up.
Then I dedicated the rest of my session to taking off deeper on every wave longboard guy wanted. Petty as sh!t but oh so satisfying, he also sucked which made it easy. Old man was doing it to the guy as well.

Fucking adult learners

 

[santacruzin]

When you have to think about your technique while surfing it’s uncomfortable. But you build up muscle memory and it’ll come together when turns comes without thinking about it. You got all the building blocks.

I struggle so much with this. Makes it hard to improve. I cant think about anything when surfing its all reactive. wish I could slow my mind down more.

 

[griffinsurfboard]

I did have one fucktard moment today. Longboard guy is sitting wide and taking almost every wide set. I wasnt mad because the better ones were inside over the boil anyway. The wide ones looked bigger but would shoulder off and burger.

So after a lot of waiting one is comin right to me, didnt even have to move and only took a few paddles. meanwhile I am watching this Idiot sprint paddling over to burn me.
Of course he shoulder hops and crushes it right where I wanted to turn.


I paddle back out:
Longboard guy "Hey man I am sorry"
Me "yea that was pretty lame especially since you are sitting outside taking every wide set.
LB guy: I didnt think you would make it

I went full Kenny Powers " Listen buddy I make every wave out here" hahahaha
Old guy next to me started cracking up.
Then I dedicated the rest of my session to taking off deeper on every wave longboard guy wanted. Petty as sh!t but oh so satisfying, he also sucked which made it easy. Old man was doing it to the guy as well.

Fucking adult learners

Welcome to Cowell's ;-)

 

[need 4 speed]

Couple barrels in between the walled South swell, not much NW help. Made a nice one, got clipped on another try to cheat a second barrel section ( makeables were few and far between). Super clean not excessively crowded. My arms need to surf more. Should be a $#!t show tomorrow

 

[bluengreen]

Got some crossed up inside bar yesterday. Not great, but still fun. Two kinda-but-not-really head-dips, a random assortment of ok turns, and one flailing air attempt.

FOMOd hard today watching the cams.

Fuck everyone that's gonna paddle out tomorrow, especially the assholes who are gassing up their vans and driving north tonight. Fuck me, too, cuz I'll be out there.

 

[000]

end of the session began to suck, took at least 20 minutes to get a decent wave in, right as i caught it some dickbag was paddling out... right to where i had been sitting, all alone, not getting shiit for 20 minutes

 

[Aruka]

Session 1: solid lefts at the reef. 6-10 blackbird felt perfect. started off strong with a bunch of fun set waves in a row but then lost the plot for a bit and couldn't buy a good wave in. still, really good session.

Session 2: local crossed up peaks. nothing special but it was clean and not closing out. tons of random faces which i guess is the new normal. it was random enough that it wasn't a huge issue. rode the Hydra and got a few fun ones. felt tired so I didn't surf for too long. beautiful sunset and some beers around the fire with a few friends.

 

[oeste858]

Session 1
…Session 2
…beautiful sunset and some beers around the fire with a few friends.

Dude, you are livin the dream!

edit: you went from 6’10 Blackbeard to Hydra groveler in the same day? That’s quite a drop in swell

 

[Havoc]

end of the session began to suck, took at least 20 minutes to get a decent wave in, right as i caught it some dickbag was paddling out... right to where i had been sitting, all alone, not getting shiit for 20 minutes

at least u didn’t have a fkn hs surf contest in the middle of ur dawn patrol

 

[Aruka]

Dude, you are livin the dream!

edit: you went from 6’10 Blackbeard to Hydra groveler in the same day? That’s quite a drop in swell

Different spots. The reef i surfed in the morning picks up a lot more swell than the beach out front here in the bay.

Living the dream until the rains start in a few days.

 

[teeroi]

I struggle so much with this. Makes it hard to improve. I cant think about anything when surfing its all reactive. wish I could slow my mind down more.

Been thinking about a good response to your post before I just post something out of the side of my neck.

When I use to go to 12 step meetings a long timer shared something that I noticed coaches use too. Instead of telling someone don’t do something give instruction on a do something. I think his exact example was instead of telling your kid don’t put your feet on the table tell them please keep your feet on the ground. Positive instead of negative. On some of the bigger waves at my regular it’ll break in front of you. You can hit that section as hard as you want and sometimes get projection and a reform. If you hit it high a lot of times you’ll go over the top of the wave. If you hit it soft like a foam climb you won’t get the projection to the reform. If you hit it hard mid face not only will you get the projection it feels so good. Instead of telling myself don’t do this don’t do that when I see that section I tell myself punch that f*cker in the stomach.

Another thing I use is something like shadow boxing. I remember when I use to learn tricks skating I would bed skate. I’d just get an old or new deck no wheels and go through the motions of an air I’d like to learn. Or do streetplants before trying inverts on a ramp. Recently I been doing layback hacks. While waiting for a wave I do the body motions for the layback so my muscles will know what to do when that opportunity arises.
YMMV.

 

[bluengreen]

Teeroi dropping knowledge.

 

[Havoc]

Been thinking about a good response to your post before I just post something out of the side of my neck.

When I use to go to 12 step meetings a long timer shared something that I noticed coaches use too. Instead of telling someone don’t do something give instruction on a do something. I think his exact example was instead of telling your kid don’t put your feet on the table tell them please keep your feet on the ground. Positive instead of negative. On some of the bigger waves at my regular it’ll break in front of you. You can hit that section as hard as you want and sometimes get projection and a reform. If you hit it high a lot of times you’ll go over the top of the wave. If you hit it soft like a foam climb you won’t get the projection to the reform. If you hit it hard mid face not only will you get the projection it feels so good. Instead of telling myself don’t do this don’t do that when I see that section I tell myself punch that f*cker in the stomach.

Another thing I use is something like shadow boxing. I remember when I use to learn tricks skating I would bed skate. I’d just get an old or new deck no wheels and go through the motions of an air I’d like to learn. Or do streetplants before trying inverts on a ramp. Recently I been doing layback hacks. While waiting for a wave I do the body motions for the layback so my muscles will know what to do when that opportunity arises.
YMMV.

damn yo, real world child rearing and surf advice in a single post.

 

[santacruzin]

Thanks @teeroi that makes a lot of sense. I can relate to that from skating.
my buddy rips so hard but is a great teacher, he always tells me one simple to do , instead of the 15 things I am doing wrong.

I need to do the same surfing.Just focus on one good thing.

also I loved “punch that mofo in the stomach” waaaaaapaaaaahhhh