but ur waterfall is freshwater no?
picturing aruka sipping water from a waterfall while romantically holding a half naked women in his arms lolz
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***Official 2021 Community Surf Journal***
- Thread starter jkb
- Start date
picturing aruka sipping water from a waterfall while romantically holding a half naked women in his arms lolz
Props to Aruka with the electrolyte tip as that worked out well this morning. Washing down a good pound or so of tri-tip with 6-pack and change was a good reset. Complete and total redemption. Hair dry paddle out not in the cards but waves were bigger, a lot cleaner, and the sun was partially shining. 52 degree air and water though.
Paddled out in the right spot this morning, a few non-consequential duckdives and was out the back and then perched on the sandbar I have been liking lately. Still windswelly but instead of backing off horribly, they did the opposite and gave you a prime roll-in either direction and were lining up well. Still plenty of erratic ocean conditions but there were a lot of fun waves rolling through and got a good dozen or so in an hour or so before the fog and wind rolled in, turning it into complete sh!t. That was my cue to get a wave in; actually there were three "last" waves before I was satisfied. Felt bad, one other guy paddled out 100 yards down from me while it was still good, only to deteriorate within 10 minutes. The ocean is cruel. He could definitely surf though and was making most of what was on offer.
No clue what was up with those hip flexor issues yesterday but there is nothing like red meat and beer to cure any and all ills.
Paddled out in the right spot this morning, a few non-consequential duckdives and was out the back and then perched on the sandbar I have been liking lately. Still windswelly but instead of backing off horribly, they did the opposite and gave you a prime roll-in either direction and were lining up well. Still plenty of erratic ocean conditions but there were a lot of fun waves rolling through and got a good dozen or so in an hour or so before the fog and wind rolled in, turning it into complete sh!t. That was my cue to get a wave in; actually there were three "last" waves before I was satisfied. Felt bad, one other guy paddled out 100 yards down from me while it was still good, only to deteriorate within 10 minutes. The ocean is cruel. He could definitely surf though and was making most of what was on offer.
No clue what was up with those hip flexor issues yesterday but there is nothing like red meat and beer to cure any and all ills.
Weekend wrap up. I do computer doing the week, so I tend to go radio silent on the weekend.
Saturday, Dawn patrol at PPP, yuck, flat, go home. Come back late morning to surf my garbage spot. It was garbage, no go. Buddy tells me it's supposed to pick up in the evening. ah what the heck, it's bad now, might as well wait for late afternnoon tide push, couldn't be any worse that what I was looking at.
So, leave the house at 4, and bust a move. I went North and left city limits, up the next reef/point type spot. I will call it Igor's. I never go here, even though it does seem to attract swell. Getting ready to paddle out, and pause. One of Teeroi's 20 wave sets was hiting. At the end of the set, I see a guy and a girl coming in tandem, how cute. Oops. girs had lots of blood coming down here cheek. Get out there, take a gander at the crowd, OMG, had to be perhaps the lowest talent level accumulatively I've ever had the pleasure to surf with.
Tide filled in nicely, and caught lot's of reasonably fast hh peelers. Couple of kids on logs paddled out, thank god they stayed inside. Their wave count was much higher than mine as they had the spot dialed. Waves were pumping, wind was light, surfing in trunks. Great session, so good that I plotted a strike mission for Sunday.
Sunday, leave the house before 5am, I'ma heading to longboar mecca, yep the big San-Onofre. I never go here ether, like once every five yeas. Get in the line of cars waiting for gate to open and take a nap. At the gate, I asked, and nice lady says 240 cars allowed in and you are #61. It was surreal, the convoy of cars heading down to the beach, like a military operation or straight out of a beach blanket bingo movie. Got my parking spot, right next to what passes as the official shack these days. Forget to mention the heartbreak on seeing onshore for your first glimpse of the ocean. That combined with negative tide, waves looked real weak sauce. I put in the effort, got a spot, I'm stayin. Waited almost two hours for tide to do it's thing and paddled out. There were overhead sets, but they just didn't have any build up to them. Super easy to catch, and super extra duper long rides. Fun, but not good.
Of note, tons of wannabe hippy types. I felt like a suckah cuz I didn't have my extra large coffee mug. One chick was walking around with an electric coffee stirrer. Again, the overall surfer talent lever was very low, talent on the beach was nto bad, especially the 6 footer parked next to me
. Lots of strange craft to see. One duu had this scary pintail, with only two bonzer fins.
Cool chit: For both my weekend sessions, kids on logs went out of there way to tell me that they though how I approached riding the waves was rad. I guess they mostly see lamers riding log boards with 0% performance level. I then went out of my way to show them how their zero edged, rolled botttom boards had all control with no acceleration when compared to my flat bottom hard edged giant shortboar.
Saturday, Dawn patrol at PPP, yuck, flat, go home. Come back late morning to surf my garbage spot. It was garbage, no go. Buddy tells me it's supposed to pick up in the evening. ah what the heck, it's bad now, might as well wait for late afternnoon tide push, couldn't be any worse that what I was looking at.
So, leave the house at 4, and bust a move. I went North and left city limits, up the next reef/point type spot. I will call it Igor's. I never go here, even though it does seem to attract swell. Getting ready to paddle out, and pause. One of Teeroi's 20 wave sets was hiting. At the end of the set, I see a guy and a girl coming in tandem, how cute. Oops. girs had lots of blood coming down here cheek. Get out there, take a gander at the crowd, OMG, had to be perhaps the lowest talent level accumulatively I've ever had the pleasure to surf with.
Tide filled in nicely, and caught lot's of reasonably fast hh peelers. Couple of kids on logs paddled out, thank god they stayed inside. Their wave count was much higher than mine as they had the spot dialed. Waves were pumping, wind was light, surfing in trunks. Great session, so good that I plotted a strike mission for Sunday.
Sunday, leave the house before 5am, I'ma heading to longboar mecca, yep the big San-Onofre. I never go here ether, like once every five yeas. Get in the line of cars waiting for gate to open and take a nap. At the gate, I asked, and nice lady says 240 cars allowed in and you are #61. It was surreal, the convoy of cars heading down to the beach, like a military operation or straight out of a beach blanket bingo movie. Got my parking spot, right next to what passes as the official shack these days. Forget to mention the heartbreak on seeing onshore for your first glimpse of the ocean. That combined with negative tide, waves looked real weak sauce. I put in the effort, got a spot, I'm stayin. Waited almost two hours for tide to do it's thing and paddled out. There were overhead sets, but they just didn't have any build up to them. Super easy to catch, and super extra duper long rides. Fun, but not good.
Of note, tons of wannabe hippy types. I felt like a suckah cuz I didn't have my extra large coffee mug. One chick was walking around with an electric coffee stirrer. Again, the overall surfer talent lever was very low, talent on the beach was nto bad, especially the 6 footer parked next to me
. Lots of strange craft to see. One duu had this scary pintail, with only two bonzer fins.Cool chit: For both my weekend sessions, kids on logs went out of there way to tell me that they though how I approached riding the waves was rad. I guess they mostly see lamers riding log boards with 0% performance level. I then went out of my way to show them how their zero edged, rolled botttom boards had all control with no acceleration when compared to my flat bottom hard edged giant shortboar.
Glad you guys are getting some. Went down to the regular knowing it was going to be smaller with the thought might as well surf cause we’re in for a weeklong flat spell. Waves were shoulder high and it looked like there were some corners to be had but it just didn’t motivate me to paddle out.
Ended up just talking crap in the parking lot and on the bench with the old man crew. Les had his van open and I was going to put his boar in the boar rack on the beach. He was sitting around talking with the Rockpile Right crew. I walked up to them with his board under arm and asked how’s the surf? Took him a few seconds to notice it was his boar. He goes you facka always messing with me.
We sat on the bench and talked to all the surfers we knew paddling out and toward the end paddling in. Rocky the Hawaiian monk seal beached himself along the jetty. He kinda blended in perfect. Kyle paddled in a few minutes later. Les was going to warn him but I told him don’t. As Kyle walked by Rocky flailed up and barked. Kyle jumped and we all busted laughing. Should’ve got a vid.
My Eastside friends Brian, Rick and his son Mase were sitting inside at my regular and getting the best waves. I told Rick he won the heat.
Ended up just talking crap in the parking lot and on the bench with the old man crew. Les had his van open and I was going to put his boar in the boar rack on the beach. He was sitting around talking with the Rockpile Right crew. I walked up to them with his board under arm and asked how’s the surf? Took him a few seconds to notice it was his boar. He goes you facka always messing with me.
We sat on the bench and talked to all the surfers we knew paddling out and toward the end paddling in. Rocky the Hawaiian monk seal beached himself along the jetty. He kinda blended in perfect. Kyle paddled in a few minutes later. Les was going to warn him but I told him don’t. As Kyle walked by Rocky flailed up and barked. Kyle jumped and we all busted laughing. Should’ve got a vid.
My Eastside friends Brian, Rick and his son Mase were sitting inside at my regular and getting the best waves. I told Rick he won the heat.
Caught some fun waves at a lonesome sand bar in mission beach and actually got a couple really fun turns. Life session learned that as long as there is a little wave you can have fun anywhere... albeit there is a lot of swell right now and lots of spots breaking really good. But its all good!
aaaaand it finally happened! The wife got me a changing poncho on our mission beach trip. To be honest... its not that bad and I kind of like it. Although it seems easier to change with a towel. The bottom of this poncho kept getting tucked inside my suit. Im much better with a towel, although im sure ill get better at this with time.
aaaaand it finally happened! The wife got me a changing poncho on our mission beach trip. To be honest... its not that bad and I kind of like it. Although it seems easier to change with a towel. The bottom of this poncho kept getting tucked inside my suit. Im much better with a towel, although im sure ill get better at this with time.
some magnesium will do wonders for this too.
First person I’ve heard complain of a learning curve with a changing poncho! LOL. Analyze the video and I’m sure you’ll be able to pinpoint any flaws in your techniqueCaught some fun waves at a lonesome sand bar in mission beach and actually got a couple really fun turns. Life session learned that as long as there is a little wave you can have fun anywhere... albeit there is a lot of swell right now and lots of spots breaking really good. But its all good!
aaaaand it finally happened! The wife got me a changing poncho on our mission beach trip. To be honest... its not that bad and I kind of like it. Although it seems easier to change with a towel. The bottom of this poncho kept getting tucked inside my suit. Im much better with a towel, although im sure ill get better at this with time.
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Welcome to the comfort club!
early Sat am sesh at the main reef with two high school buddies I hadn’t seen since pre-pandemic. Amazing how some people require no effort and you just fall back into old rhythms like not a day has past. Guess I’ve missed that.
It was crowded 25-30 dudes, but HH sets and managed to catch a few fun rights. Bit of a bump on the face, so had a couple wobbles on the Plasmic between turns. Would’ve grabbed the lightblender but I thought it would be smaller.
Really? My wife uses magnesium to fall asleep at night - didn't think about it working for preventing muscle cramps too. The cold does not help with this either. Will give that a go.
9 second swell is bad enough but when mixed with chop from multiple directions, waves were close enough that you'd come up from first duck dive to have second wave right in your face but just far enough part that you couldn't duck dive them both (besides, there was often a third and fourth one right behind too). I am aware of that JJF video of him duckdiving his board 3' down across the pool. I don't think I can do that.
yea, i take it every morning. it can help fall asleep but wont put you to sleep if that makes sense but since i started taking it regularly a few years ago i noticed no more cramps. I hydrate like a mofo and used to get session ending calf cramps almost daily regardless. This stuff worked miracles and its something we should probably be taking anyway since most of us are deficient in it. Also helps with a racy mind (why your wife sleeps well on it), and restless leg syndrome.Really? My wife uses magnesium to fall asleep at night - didn't think about it working for preventing muscle cramps too. The cold does not help with this either. Will give that a go.
9 second swell is bad enough but when mixed with chop from multiple directions, waves were close enough that you'd come up from first duck dive to have second wave right in your face but just far enough part that you couldn't duck dive them both (besides, there was often a third and fourth one right behind too). I am aware of that JJF video of him duckdiving his board 3' down across the pool. I don't think I can do that.
Snuck in an evening session on the inside at a reef that I never surf because it's a zoo of flailing longboarders, but it's much faster to get to than my usual spots. Rode the manta to maxamize the session because it looked like major flat spots. Manta was definitely the call! There were really fun steep sections where I think I could've ridden my DD but it was small enough the Manta could still handle those sections and make it through the super flat ones. Got a ton of fun ones in less than an hour and called it. Manta FTW.
I joke with my wife that magnesium for sleep is like weed-lite. I'll give that a shot before paddling out next time.
Calf cramps are inevitable when you are tensing to prevent getting dragged back over the falls and the place I usually go, the waves have a lot of push behind them and even head high waves will drag you backwards, making the paddle-outs very draining at times. Was funny, yesterday, had a nice lined up left, lots of speed to burn, and perfect oncoming section, which I smashed and just about to arc it down into the flats when I realized, holy crap, just being 20 feet further inside will pin me on that shorebreak sandbar. Tightened that arc and threw myself over the lip in what looked very awkward I'm sure but it did save me about 20 duck-dives.
I really recommend everyone sign up for Noel Salsa's Patreon to gain access to his three part Poncho series. He really breaks down the fundamentals of both putting on AND taking off the towel poncho. There's even slow motion sections so you can really understand the complexities of putting on clothing, something which many of us have never experienced before. He also has reversed videos so that the left handers among us aren't left out (no pun intended).First person I’ve heard complain of a learning curve with a changing poncho! LOL. Analyze the video and I’m sure you’ll be able to pinpoint any flaws in your technique
Welcome to the comfort club!
I didn't think it was possible to keep improving at my age but my parking lot wetsuit changes have never been better.
Personally I find the fundamentals of poncho changing to be the same as towel changing . Speed. Power. Flow. Limit indecent exposure.
You guys are killing me! lol.
The only issue I had was that with a towel its tight around my waist and pretty tight around the legs, so when i stretch out my leg to put it into my wetsuit leg, the towel stays in place. With the changing poncho it wasn't tight around my waist so the wind on the beach was blowing the bottom of the poncho around and when i stretched my leg out to put it into the wetsuit, it took some of the poncho in with it. Then i had to pull the poncho out of the wetsuit and carefully pull up the poncho and then put the other leg in the wetsuit... and it was just odd to have this poncho flying around everywhere while im trying to get a wetsuit on. lol. Much easier with a towel around my waist. But its a cool item - and yes - I would say there is a slight learning curve.
Don't stop with the poncho. A changing pup tent like this is the answer. You can even set up your own private shitter.
Disclaimer: This may not work well in paved parking lots on windy days.
Disclaimer: This may not work well in paved parking lots on windy days.
Solution for windy/paved: Weight the sides down with sawhorses.I saw one yesterday at San-O, not sure about the potty part
(actually, if you're camping at a site with highly questionable shitters, it's a nice amenity!)