saw a mirage, almost nobody out at the point, grabbed the 5'10 and caught two sets right off the bat, couldn't believe my luck, then no sets for 10 minutes then caught a wave and saw a flotilla of young fit longboarders paddling out, literally like over 20 in a matter of 15 minutes, must have been a club or social media inspired event IDK but it was the greatest 000 i've experienced in years. was totally surrounded, I just turned around and paddled straight in riding a whitewater on my belly.
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***Official 2021 Community Surf Journal***
- Thread starter jkb
- Start date
Kinda junky and I was off my game but good to get in the water.
Took out the RT twin at the tide change. Peaky dumpy chest-high drainers. Feels like Spring. Only 2 regulars out and the paddle was a bitch.
For awhile every wave drained out to pull into a grindy little tuber. Then the tide got high and the sets started pulsing into grindy bigger closeouts. Getting past the gutter w/o getting blasted while paddling back out was the most challenging.
New Hyperfreak is lovely
For awhile every wave drained out to pull into a grindy little tuber. Then the tide got high and the sets started pulsing into grindy bigger closeouts. Getting past the gutter w/o getting blasted while paddling back out was the most challenging.
New Hyperfreak is lovely
Today was an hour and a quarter hit n run and the stars aligned. Friendly line up and lots of waves. Played the opposite of majority, most sitting inside I went outside most went outside I went inside.
Hit a mid morning window trying to shoot the gap between the dawn patrol and salty-unemployed carp crew. Well known spot, but timing was good with most folks exiting while I rolled out. Took a while to get in rhythm but found a couple chest/shoulder peaks, chatted with a few familiar faces, and felt out how the shorter period swell was grabbing the reef. Found a double up insider on the shelf that gave me a pair of turns before a tube and second cover up on the end section. Things were looking up.
then one of everyone’s least favorite locals paddles out - even though we’re on “good terms,” the guy is a colossal numb nuts and manages to burn me twice right off the bat. The only difference is these days (20 years in) he apologizes... but he never stops. And it ain’t worth haggling over so I just accept the sad reality of the world and find waves in between his buffoonish gluttony - which were still fun as. A few more competent regulars paddled out and the lineup still held some order but it got tighter. Then another old carp - and a quite good surfer but absolutely the most entitled ass - joined the peak and proceeded to simply claim priority on anything that moved. And he went and went - regardless of how bad the backpaddle/snake/burn was - on everyone. Some of the most uncouth backpaddles I’ve seen are from this turd. But he wouldn’t do that to me.... right?
of course he would. Quality wave with longer period line comes through (and the lure of ledging on the inside shelf) and I’m out back, having waiting and passed waves to others, and I proceed to go. The guy m-f-ing paddled so hard to shoulder hop on a wave I’d already thrown a turn on and I ended up rail to rail with him having my mind blown at the jackassishness. I was furious and tried to figure out what my reaction was going to be, and the wave gently backed off just enough for him to lose momentum, but I kept planing. So I kept planing, contemplating, as he fell out the back of the wave.
what could motivate this behavior? What the f@&$ bro! Why the obvious, disrespectful, totally uncalled for burn? I am always following ps and qs out there, I knew everyone, and it wasn’t a madhouse - people were holding etiquette. Why! Why!?!??!?! I’m looking back out to sea where he’s collecting his board thinking of all the ..... wait, what’s this?
this burger of a wave was morphing into a nugget, and now it wants to shelf on the ledge?! Yes sir! Pump for speed, come off the high line for a bottom turn, snap/stall into the barrel, clean in and out, and a clean little cutty to wrap it up. Paddling back out I’m shaking my head just thoroughly frustrated by the juxtaposition of the “f*** you!” and “f*** yeah!” experience of that short ride.
decided to start looking for a ride to call it quits, moved wide and found one, 3 to the beach and out.
then one of everyone’s least favorite locals paddles out - even though we’re on “good terms,” the guy is a colossal numb nuts and manages to burn me twice right off the bat. The only difference is these days (20 years in) he apologizes... but he never stops. And it ain’t worth haggling over so I just accept the sad reality of the world and find waves in between his buffoonish gluttony - which were still fun as. A few more competent regulars paddled out and the lineup still held some order but it got tighter. Then another old carp - and a quite good surfer but absolutely the most entitled ass - joined the peak and proceeded to simply claim priority on anything that moved. And he went and went - regardless of how bad the backpaddle/snake/burn was - on everyone. Some of the most uncouth backpaddles I’ve seen are from this turd. But he wouldn’t do that to me.... right?
of course he would. Quality wave with longer period line comes through (and the lure of ledging on the inside shelf) and I’m out back, having waiting and passed waves to others, and I proceed to go. The guy m-f-ing paddled so hard to shoulder hop on a wave I’d already thrown a turn on and I ended up rail to rail with him having my mind blown at the jackassishness. I was furious and tried to figure out what my reaction was going to be, and the wave gently backed off just enough for him to lose momentum, but I kept planing. So I kept planing, contemplating, as he fell out the back of the wave.
what could motivate this behavior? What the f@&$ bro! Why the obvious, disrespectful, totally uncalled for burn? I am always following ps and qs out there, I knew everyone, and it wasn’t a madhouse - people were holding etiquette. Why! Why!?!??!?! I’m looking back out to sea where he’s collecting his board thinking of all the ..... wait, what’s this?
this burger of a wave was morphing into a nugget, and now it wants to shelf on the ledge?! Yes sir! Pump for speed, come off the high line for a bottom turn, snap/stall into the barrel, clean in and out, and a clean little cutty to wrap it up. Paddling back out I’m shaking my head just thoroughly frustrated by the juxtaposition of the “f*** you!” and “f*** yeah!” experience of that short ride.
decided to start looking for a ride to call it quits, moved wide and found one, 3 to the beach and out.
Just time for a quick 30 at reef #3 this afternoon. I just needed to get wet and get some exercise after a brutal few days with work. Crumbly but i caught a few waist-high rights on the Akila contemporary fish groveler. With effortless speed, the board linked sections and carved up any open face offered; it certainly made the most of the meager conditions. If FW has any sense, they would release this model from Akila next.
edit: The Creatures lighting bolt pad was on there when I bought it. Poor guy hadn't ridden it yet when he found out he needed knee surgery and would be out of water for a year. I obviously would've gone with a dank af rasta pad.
edit: The Creatures lighting bolt pad was on there when I bought it. Poor guy hadn't ridden it yet when he found out he needed knee surgery and would be out of water for a year. I obviously would've gone with a dank af rasta pad.
that thing looks so fun, lightning bolts must make it go faster. what're the dims
are you going to get matching bolts on your car? I hope so.
Kidding aside, looks pretty dank
LOL. That guy must've been so stocked when he found bolts that matched the Aipa lam! #winning Surely the hardest part about selling a new board he hadn't even ridden
It flies... gotta be the bolts. 5'11 x 20 1/2 x 2 3/4. it's bigger than the 5'8 one I have on order (who knows when that will come), but honestly the extra beef is not really noticeable because his rails are nicely foiled.
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some charger helmet bolts on my shoulders would look pretty dank over my barbed wire armband tats...
panties would just drop as soon as I start to peel off my wetsuit.
If only some bro would be bold enough to combine bolts AND flames on one board!
That board would be the fastest ever.
and all panties would be on the floor
Boltz, flamez, snakez and skullz!
Also, be careful with that lightning near the ocean...