small wave longboard

GDaddy

Duke status
Jan 17, 2006
29,238
2,056
113
Carlsbad
I have an extremely injured back.

I can’t paddle shortboards without extreme pain for days on end afterwards.

I have to go to physical therapy and constantly see doctors for my back.

You think everyone on a longboard is using it as a crutch?

Why so judgmental?
Sorry for you troubles. I'm old and edging toward a retirement board myself, which means I sit to the side and wait for the scraps because that's my place in the pecking order. That's not the same thing as a perfectly fit kid sitting in the middle of the bait ball in overhead conditions and using a longboard as a WMC (Weapon of Mass Wavecount) because they're too lazy to compete for a wave.

I'm sure you know this. I shouldn't even have to explain the difference to you.
 
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GDaddy

Duke status
Jan 17, 2006
29,238
2,056
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Carlsbad
This vid was posted on the other forum today. No air reverses, but these surfers are still actively surfing the wave in junky conditions. It's obviously not for everyone but boards like this are one alternative.

<iframe src="https://player.vimeo.com/video/173788188" width="640" height="360" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; fullscreen" allowfullscreen></iframe>
<p><a href="
">Colapintail x Cj Nelson Designs</a> from <a href="https://vimeo.com/kookapinto">Corey Colapinto</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>
 

bluemarlin04

Michael Peterson status
Aug 13, 2015
2,565
2,383
113
Sorry for you troubles. I'm old and edging toward a retirement board myself, which means I sit to the side and wait for the scraps because that's my place in the pecking order. That's not the same thing as a perfectly fit kid sitting in the middle of the bait ball in overhead conditions and using a longboard as a WMC (Weapon of Mass Wavecount) because they're too lazy to compete for a wave.

I'm sure you know this. I shouldn't even have to explain the difference to you.
All good

Funny thing is I’m in my mid thirties. Hurt my back in the military.

I don’t go into packs and up my wavecount. I grew up in Hawaii where if you did that you’d get put in your place very quickly
 

retodd

Duke status
Feb 23, 2009
16,757
2,177
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That flat tracker is NICE! I have a 7’6 I’ve been using but leaning toward a glider for max early entry and linkage.

For all those that worry I’m surfing a longboard like a short board using it as a crutch Or infringing on someone elses waves, I surf at most wtih 4 neighbors, one LB, one SUP, one guy who rides a barn door and gets barreled more than anyone.

Had a chance to talk with this shaper last year at the boardroom show
Think he came in second place on the shape off
Anyways his boards felt reall nice and his all around skill will foam is top notch . I would reach out to him and let him know your ideas

Could be your new favorite shaper
 
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VaB

Michael Peterson status
Nov 14, 2004
3,078
688
113
Virginia Beach, VA

Had a chance to talk with this shaper last year at the boardroom show
Think he came in second place on the shape off
Anyways his boards felt reall nice and his all around skill will foam is top notch . I would reach out to him and let him know your ideas

Could be your new favorite shaper

wow. definitely a possibility and price would be good.
 

ciscojaws

Michael Peterson status
Jul 28, 2008
2,480
658
113
Kook City, VA

Had a chance to talk with this shaper last year at the boardroom show
Think he came in second place on the shape off
Anyways his boards felt reall nice and his all around skill will foam is top notch . I would reach out to him and let him know your ideas

Could be your new favorite shaper
He's on my list for a midlength channelled twin and a twin keel.
 

kool-aid

Michael Peterson status
Aug 28, 2003
3,038
2,637
113
San Francisco
This vid was posted on the other forum today. No air reverses, but these surfers are still actively surfing the wave in junky conditions. It's obviously not for everyone but boards like this are one alternative.

<iframe src="https://player.vimeo.com/video/173788188" width="640" height="360" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; fullscreen" allowfullscreen></iframe>
<p><a href="
">Colapintail x Cj Nelson Designs</a> from <a href="https://vimeo.com/kookapinto">Corey Colapinto</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>
Sick moves
 

Senor Sopa

Billy Hamilton status
Mar 11, 2015
1,386
2,212
113
Ponto
This vid was posted on the other forum today. No air reverses, but these surfers are still actively surfing the wave in junky conditions. It's obviously not for everyone but boards like this are one alternative.

<iframe src="https://player.vimeo.com/video/173788188" width="640" height="360" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; fullscreen" allowfullscreen></iframe>
<p><a href="
">Colapintail x Cj Nelson Designs</a> from <a href="https://vimeo.com/kookapinto">Corey Colapinto</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>
What I saw in the first half of that video (got too artsy at that point) was a guy that would have been shredding on a LB like the ones you deride, but was held back by the pure logginess of his boar.

OP says his buddy gets barreled on a door. I suggest he get something that will allow similar rides.

OP, gliders are good when you have a potentially long ride, not so great for shorepound.
 
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VaB

Michael Peterson status
Nov 14, 2004
3,078
688
113
Virginia Beach, VA
I think that barn door idea is an option. He rides a foamier and is by far the best surfer. Probably spent some time on travel, no way he got that good here.

Just got news of second cut to my hours so all spending on hold. That WRV looks great though. Good option down the road. At least I am working and have steady income. Many people don't.
 

Billy Ocean

Duke status
Jan 7, 2017
19,330
2,636
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Thanks for the input.

-- Small wave is 1-2 ft. That is knee to thigh. it's small, normally too small for anything else. 3 foot opens options

--most days I surf alone. MAYBE 4 people total, so wave count or longboarder vs shortboarder isn't an issue at all.

at 2 feet not really sure I can "rip" a longboard. Mostly trim, walk front to back an occasional turn. So glider vs standard nose rider is I think the question.

Mostly this is just to get in the water on the small warm summer days. Quarantine may go to mid june or longer so beaches may be pretty empty here for some time.
if I was going to have just 1 longboard i wouldn’t make it a noserider

I’d go wide point back, Sam type shape, in the low 9’ range

I have two longboards, 9’2 wide point back pintail and a 9’6” takayama model T noserider, both glassed heavy

The Sam shape is way better for just hopping on once in a while in almost any conditions

noserider needs more perfect longboarding type waves to really do its thing and it’s a commitment if you want to get good
 

Billy Ocean

Duke status
Jan 7, 2017
19,330
2,636
113
This vid was posted on the other forum today. No air reverses, but these surfers are still actively surfing the wave in junky conditions. It's obviously not for everyone but boards like this are one alternative.

<iframe src="https://player.vimeo.com/video/173788188" width="640" height="360" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; fullscreen" allowfullscreen></iframe>
<p><a href="
">Colapintail x Cj Nelson Designs</a> from <a href="https://vimeo.com/kookapinto">Corey Colapinto</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>
I have board similar to that- very versatile and fun
 

Retropete

Phil Edwards status
Jan 20, 2006
6,051
4,595
113
Sunny Coast Qld Australia
I'm going to be a dissenter and say while it looked sweet on the eyes the Christenson 8' flat tracker I owned was such an ordinary board compared to many other midlengths I've owned. It was a handshape by Chris while he was in Australia in the stock 8' dims which were fine for my size.
It felt too retro (even for me) in its performance and had no gas pedal underfoot. It's narrow tail in smaller waves made it more of a point and trimmer.
 

Maz

Michael Peterson status
May 18, 2004
3,130
4,728
113
Innzid
I'm going to be a dissenter and say while it looked sweet on the eyes the Christenson 8' flat tracker I owned was such an ordinary board compared to many other midlengths I've owned. It was a handshape by Chris while he was in Australia in the stock 8' dims which were fine for my size.
It felt too retro (even for me) in its performance and had no gas pedal underfoot. It's narrow tail in smaller waves made it more of a point and trimmer.
Which mid lengths of yours have had that gas pedal, and felt spritzy?
 

rgruber

Miki Dora status
May 30, 2004
3,631
1,376
113
I had a board made based on a Takayama Howard Mini and had the shaper add some double concave toward the fins to give it a little more squirt. Worked great. I think this is similar to what they've done with the new CI Midlength.

In addition, I started running a 6.5 inch Bonzer center fin along with some Futures grom fins as the side bites. This combo really made the thing light up.

Works for me, I haven't picked up my longboard much in the last few years since I got it. Only time I really drag out my 9'4 is on very small clean days without a lot of push. If the wave has any sort of umph to it, I'd rather ride my 7'0 Mockayama.

Which mid lengths of yours have had that gas pedal, and felt spritzy?
 
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