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Can we talk about HAWAIIAN BIG WAVE SURFERS?

PPK96754

PPK96754

Miki Dora status
Apr 15, 2015
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Kauai's north shore ~
From a recent PM to me this A.M. about the photo.

Today at 6:50 AM
Wow , Sam Hawk, Turk from Country , looks like OWL in the bottom left too. I was lucky to experience Hawaii in the late 60 s to 70s era. I lived with Ed Searforce, at Sunset who bought the Country label before moving in with Phil Irons at Vland. Phil and I named Freddieland for an east coast guy who only surfed there. We had these redwood shacks in the scrub , courtesy of Phils brother Bill . We built one for Fred Grosskreutz who preaching the gospel in those days. He passed recently from styrene poisoning, catching waves on the other side now , Rick H.20190925_150332.jpg
 
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Peter1

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Jul 29, 2005
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Strange as it sounds, it's probably easier to be accepted into Hawaiian society than, say, if you're a brown-skinned immigrant from Mexico moving to Scandinavian Minnesota, or an African refugee in Italy or Belgium. You think any Flandrian (Flanders is one of the most racist places in Europe) would embrace an Eritrean, no matter how many frites and mayo they ate?
 
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Makule

Makule

Michael Peterson status
Aug 31, 2004
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Somewhere between heaven and hell
oneula said:
you're too tall

according to legend the menehunes or Mu were an original hawaiian indigenous population most likely micronesian based on their description (short, dark and stocky with kinky hair) that were enslaved by the later arriving greek/romanesque like tahitian/polynesians fleeing persecution from easter island and other polynesian islands.

The micronesians are ending up at the bottom of the social ladder again here in hawaii. But that started with what uncle sam did to bikini.

funny that it took another micronesian, Papa Mau Pialug to save the hawaiian culture with what he shared with Nainoa Thompson and the navigators that followed. That was the start of the hawaiian renaissance that brought back our language and culture for this today. We owe allot to the powerful Mu culture.

you got aloha so no worries

also among their inner circles of friends with hawaiian blood, I'm pretty sure that Laird, Dustin, Shane, and Billy would be considered "hawaiian" eventhough they by themselves would not consider themselves as such. Go listen or read Woody Brown's story about what happened to him when he first came over and how that changed him and made him want to become part of this place.

Its when you view this place as your home your final resting place deep down that you make that transition from transplant to kamaaina and then to hawaiian. Most before the war foreign imported plantation workers can speak more hawaiian and know more about the hawaiian culture that they learned from their coworkers and friends than most of the youth of Hawaiian blood out there today. The slow destruction of the culture of open sharing without expectations (aloha) is what is destroying hawaii,

Non Hawaiian kids who were lucky enough to attend Aha Punana Leo schools from pre-school up are more "hawaiian" than some of their counterparts at kamehameha schools.

I consider John Kelly and his wife Marian "hawaiian", same for Wally Frosieth and his family, Even the Robinsons, Doc Buyers and some of the old ranchers on maui and the big island. Many old Hawaiians on Maui considered Lindbergh to be "hawaiian". Something that Larry Ellison , Zuckerberg or David Murdock never will achieve.

Non Hawaiian kids who were lucky enough to attend Aha Punana Leo schools are more "hawaiian" than some of their counterparts at kamehameha schools.
Click to expand...

Worked with a guy at the Boeing Company who was born and raised in Waianae. Graduated Claremont College and Kam class of 1977 and spoke full Hawaiian. Smart farka!! I used to tease him whenever he was pissed at some guy at work.....Where's the aloha John??!?!? His reply....the aloha left me once I got off the plane!!!!
 
T

the janitor

Tom Curren status
Mar 28, 2003
12,340
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north of the bridge
Peter1 said:
Strange as it sounds, it's probably easier to be accepted into Hawaiian society than, say, if you're a brown-skinned immigrant from Mexico moving to Scandinavian Minnesota, or an African refugee in Italy or Belgium. You think any Flandrian (Flanders is one of the most racist places in Europe) would embrace an Eritrean, no matter how many frites and mayo they ate?
Click to expand...
Yes, provided said Eritrean was playing for KRC Genk
 
surfysurfy1476

surfysurfy1476

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Jan 27, 2018
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bluemarlin04 said:
I will say this: the north shore and Hawaii were better off without him. Has nothing to do about his skin color but his criminal actions. He is responsible for a lot of crime and families being ripped apart from drugs.
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Criminal behavior from one of them? Inconceivable!
 
surfysurfy1476

surfysurfy1476

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Jan 27, 2018
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Peter1 said:
Strange as it sounds, it's probably easier to be accepted into Hawaiian society than, say, if you're a brown-skinned immigrant from Mexico moving to Scandinavian Minnesota, or an African refugee in Italy or Belgium. You think any Flandrian (Flanders is one of the most racist places in Europe) would embrace an Eritrean, no matter how many frites and mayo they ate?
Click to expand...
And why should they? Look whats happening in Sweden.
 
P

Peter1

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surfysurfy1476 said:
And why should they? Look whats happening in Sweden.
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What's happening in Sweden? I was in Gothenburg twice in the past year on business trips and all I saw was a fairly pleasant place to live with exceptionally attractive women, lots of wide open space and a Volvo in every driveway.
 
surfysurfy1476

surfysurfy1476

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Jan 27, 2018
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Peter1 said:
What's happening in Sweden? I was in Gothenburg twice in the past year on business trips and all I saw was a fairly pleasant place to live with exceptionally attractive women, lots of wide open space and a Volvo in every driveway.
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You had a nice trip to Sweden? Well I guess crime doesnt exist then. Racists owned!
 
ElOgro

ElOgro

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Dec 3, 2010
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surfysurfy1476 said:
You had a nice trip to Sweden? Well I guess crime doesnt exist then. Racists owned!
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In spite of your confrontational whinging there’s some good content in this thread.

Thanks Ona, Matt, Tío Pedro, and the 808 peoples for your experienced perspective.

Roger Erickson?

www.surfer.com

Roger Erickson: Hell and Back - SURFER Magazine

Derek Hynd profiles Roger Erickson, the gladiator of Waimea.
www.surfer.com www.surfer.com
 
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bluemarlin04

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I am a fan of Rogers daughter Emily and her willingness to charge big waves

Roger is also a legend in his own right and a charger
 
surfysurfy1476

surfysurfy1476

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Jan 27, 2018
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ElOgro said:
In spite of your confrontational whinging there’s some good content in this thread.

Thanks Ona, Matt, Tío Pedro, and the 808 peoples for your experienced perspective.

Roger Erickson?

www.surfer.com

Roger Erickson: Hell and Back - SURFER Magazine

Derek Hynd profiles Roger Erickson, the gladiator of Waimea.
www.surfer.com www.surfer.com
Click to expand...
So my post is "whinging" but the guy who randomly inserts his sjw anti-white ideology about race relations in the USA and Europe into a thread discussion on HAWAII is not. You feelin okay bud?
 
ElOgro

ElOgro

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surfysurfy1476 said:
So my post is "whinging" but the guy who randomly inserts his sjw anti-white ideology about race relations in the USA and Europe into a thread discussion on HAWAII is not. You feelin okay bud?
Click to expand...
Fine. Thanks for asking.
 
teeroi

teeroi

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Oct 21, 2007
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Roger doesn’t surf much anymore. Back or shoulder issues. But he skates Banzai skatepark regularly. One of the other NS lifeguards got him into it. Cool he was willing to learn in his 60’s. He used to scold the kids for bad skate etiquette but now he mostly tries to skate when it’s less crowded. Absolute legend. His daughters and their friends skate there too.
 
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bluemarlin04

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Aug 13, 2015
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That’s overdue imo.

I will say that most of the time I get hassled in the water or see people hassling in the water it is transplants. The locals I see rarely burn or backpaddle other locals. And the transplants almost always pretend they’re the victim afterwards.

The locals I do see burn people- they usually deserve it.
 
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craigj532

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Nov 9, 2002
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racer1

racer1

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Haha, I read that article and was thinking the same thing. Keone, Seth and Carissa are all super cool in the water but Chris??
 
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