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Surfboard volume = your weight / 6
- Thread starter Duffy LaCoronilla
- Start date
It’s basically that except that with very low volume boards there’s no real “cork” effect. Technique is the same though.
240/6=40 liters. I ride 42 liters in my 6’6 short board and 47 in my 7’0 step up. 8’0 gun is 58. 9’0 67, 10’0 79. Interestingly I can duck dive all of them except my 10’0. Most of my buddies can’t even duck dive their 7’6s.
I can still fit in the same board shorts I wore six years ago but my boards have gone from 28.5 - 29.5 to 32-33. 
I think it should be weight/ 7 , maybe even 8. Volume should be minimal to maximize performance. No less than neck deep sitting on your board. I surf so much better when people listen to me.
Moving to NCSD certainly helpedI can still fit in the same board shorts I wore six years ago but my boards have gone from 28.5 - 29.5 to 32-33.
Paddle as forward on the board as you can, stay as low as you can but arch your back just enough. Think about paddling 'into' the wave not 'onto' the wave. Someone mentioned bodysurfing. That is a good way of thinking about it.
Forward on the board for sure.
It might sound weird to some but for me, the most efficient paddling position is when the tip of the boards nose is just slightly submerged under water. That's paddling through the lineup. When catching a wave, I'm either in the same position but digging harder/paddling faster or positioned just slightly aft so the nose pops out above the surface.
You can get away with a lot less volume in the Islands IMO. Waves that pull you into the takeoff vs waves where you have to battle your way in. I've brought home boards I thought were magic that were barely surfboards in west coast waves.
The reverse is true too. Not having been surfing in the reefs of Asia in 20 years and taking boards that work great here I found some of them boaty over there with the draw in the reefs.
www.youtube.com
Surf Tips: On volume with Matt of Album Surfboards
Matt of @albumsurf shares insights on why embracing a diverse quiver can enhance your surfing and add more fun. Ever wondered about the magic number for you...
www.youtube.com
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Well, I've gone from 180 to 174 in 3 weeks. Will let you know when I hit 170, and I'll eat my words then but be very pleased.
As someone that has been getting mostly custom borts for almost 40 years, I know my dims and how they've changed with my body's changes and my ability level going up, and unfortunately starting a backslide the last year or so. I find the volume # handy to figure out how a bort will feel (boaty vs. not enough float). I can still ride my 27-28L borts (I'm 6' and 173 as of this am), but I think I'll be ordering my next Stumps with dims that = around 30L to make things easier for my 52 year old self.
I did have a positive aging moment this past Monday. My daughter was watching our local spot and told a friend (and an occasional sub at her high school, RUHS) that she thought she saw a local QS surfer, Magno Pacheco, do a nice air. He said "Magno is in Brazil, that's your dad". He (my buddy and occasional sub for my kid) paddled out and told me about the exchange which got me pretty stocked.
I did have a positive aging moment this past Monday. My daughter was watching our local spot and told a friend (and an occasional sub at her high school, RUHS) that she thought she saw a local QS surfer, Magno Pacheco, do a nice air. He said "Magno is in Brazil, that's your dad". He (my buddy and occasional sub for my kid) paddled out and told me about the exchange which got me pretty stocked.
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Ripping!
Well, I started late and grew up without waves, and I'm 60, so I'll stick with my ~35L shorties - even if I do hit 170. Damn you!
Well, I started late and grew up without waves, and I'm 60, so I'll stick with my ~35L shorties - even if I do hit 170. Damn you!
Best way for me to lose weight is a few weeks in Indo.
All of my boards are over volumed now.
Need to buy my Pod and Wizard Sleeve back.
Sold my Pod to Roy Orbison’s son.
Send it back, Orbie!
Need to buy my Pod and Wizard Sleeve back.
Sold my Pod to Roy Orbison’s son.
Send it back, Orbie!