In reading some of the posts on this BB, I've noticed that alot of people don't seem too thrilled about riding waves like Jaws, Mavs, Todos, Teahupoo, Dungeons, etc. This makes me think, is there something wrong with me? Ever since I saw the footage, from when Foo died at Mavs, on my local news here in NJ I've been stoked to ride big waves. In fact, the whole reason I started surfing again back in 1998 was to enventually ride legitamite big waves. I surfed a little bit (on a borrowed shortboard) when I was a young kid -around age 10, but mainly stuck to body surfing. Almost 10 years later I started having dreams about surfing big waves, racing down the face of a giant "hill" of water. So thats when I went out, bought a surfboard and taught myself how to surf again. I didn't read any books, or watch and movies, I would read the surf mags here and there, but everything as far as surfing came naturally to me. So heres my question, why is it that y'all seem to not want any part of these 'big' waves, but to me its something I can't wait to do? <P>The biggest waves I've surfed were solid 10' two different swells. One was in Fall of 1999, I was the only one out for as far as I could see (the surf report called it DoH (12'), but I'd say it was 10'. The other time was the Summer of 2001. I quit my "summer" job because I knew a swell was coming and couldn't get off. Sure enough the next few days were epic. I was undergunned on my 6'4, but still mangaged to get a few decent waves in.<BR>-Jonathan
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thread about riding big waves
- Thread starter LBInjSurfer
- Start date
I know how you feel scr i mean i would love to tell everyone about the time i charged 50 foot mavs but these kooks wouldnt belive a word i said geesh
those bastards
Well, I love the idea of big waves. The first time I saw Mavericks footage with some friends at the surf shop down south, something came over me. I wanted to ride waves like that.<P>Then, the December of '94 swell hit, and I saw the potential in my area, as well as keeping tabs on Mavericks. From then on, I set a goal for myself.<P>A lot of things have happened since then, and I have, over the last few years, been testing myself in larger conditions. Baby steps almost. And now I'm out of the water for a spell.<P>I still want to test the waters at Mavericks, on a small day there of course to begin with (then later moving on to the killer days), but I've never really lost sight of that goal. Big waves are just alluring. I want to tap into that magic<BR><p>[This message has been edited by Dimly Lit (edited 12-13-2002).]
Yeah. When I was on the easy coast I used to think about big waves too. Then I actually moved to NorCal. Believe me, Mavs isn't a "big wave," its death in the guise of a surf spot. It doesn't start really breaking there until its 15 feet.<P>There are so many days when I wish it was shoulder to head high and clean, and instead its double to triple OH and crazy at my local break, OB. <BR>But by all means, you have to have your dreams. Have you surfed out here yet? I'd be interested to hear about anyone else on this board who has served Mavs, Waimea, or any other legit big wave spot. <BR>Most of us haven't because its a whole 'nother realm that takes a committment most of us can't make.<BR>
hey jdubbs, i think blakestah has paddled out to mavericks. and i noticed he posted here on my ob wipeout thread.<BR>
Waimea looks pretty fun.. probably an easy step into the big wave world. Except for the crowds on it.<P>Most of what I've seen at todos or mavs doesn't look like fun surfing, most guys are just racing away from the whitewater.<P>It looks fun from a thrill perspective, but so far in my experiences with big crashing waves, you don't get to focus on carving up and down the face or anything, instead you're just concentrating on making it.<P>I'd try waimea for sure, maybe todos.. but it's not some huge priority. I'm perfectly happy with clean head high plus conditions and minimal crowds.
Unfortunately I haven't had the chance to surf out west yet. Mav's is just awesome to me. I've read more info, stories, ect. about that wave than any other. Also I meant to put in the original post, my dreams, goals, whatever you want to call them, are not just "mind candy". I still have alot to learn when it comes to riding these waves, i.e. water safety & mental preparation.<BR>Also, when I was referring to "big" waves, I'm talking in the 30-35+ feet (double on the face). One day...<P>Also, waves like Teahupoo, Pico Alto (peru), and some spots in the Basque region are on my list.
I used to think I loved big waves, and moved to Kaua'i to get some in the mid-80's. <BR>Then I saw a real swell, a true 20'-30'+ Hawaiian size swell, and it was a reality check. I wanted no part of it! I was perfectly content to sit and watch huge walls of north swell slam onto outer reefs from the safety of the beach, and I was still awestruck and trembling!<BR>I honestly have no idea how people like Laird go out there and play in those conditions.
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by sandiegojoe:<BR><B>Waimea looks pretty fun.. probably an easy step into the big wave world. Except for the crowds on it.<P>Most of what I've seen at todos or mavs doesn't look like fun surfing, most guys are just racing away from the whitewater.<P>It looks fun from a thrill perspective, but so far in my experiences with big crashing waves, you don't get to focus on carving up and down the face or anything, instead you're just concentrating on making it.<P>I'd try waimea for sure, maybe todos.. but it's not some huge priority. I'm perfectly happy with clean head high plus conditions and minimal crowds.</B><HR></BLOCKQUOTE><P><BR>Isn't it amazing how our perspective on Waimea has changed over the years. Now it seems like an easy step into the big wave world?! I pulled out an old video the other night that showed the 86 Billabong in 20-25" Waimea, and it looked so heavy, yet still nothing like some of the stuff we're seeing now.<P>Then again, Wimea means elevator drops, an enclosed bay, heavy currents, possible across-the-bay closeouts, and when it's smaller, 6 guys per wave. Not so easy I'm afraid.<P>I used to want to surf big Sunset, maybe Waimea. Still kinda kicking myself that I didn't surf Sunset at 10'+ Hawaiian style when I had the chance, but it was literally my first day in Hawaiian surf, and that was way outta my league. I've surfed Blacks and Swamis both at triple OH, plus some big days on the Central Coast. Injuries have meant that I'm now drawing the limit at around double OH, max. <P>Funny though -- I had the opposite reaction that Joe had: I look at guys dropping and swooping and carving on waves like Mavs and that looks like it's more fun to me (though with insane consequences) than smaller waves. But those "minimal crowds" sure would be nice!
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by SaltCreekRat:<BR><B>ok, a serious response. This is the biggest I've been out in. I took this picture once I got in. Notice the little people (dots) on left. Waves were DOH with TOH sets.<BR></B><HR></BLOCKQUOTE><P>Sunset, Rat?
Sweet. Looks a lot like the day I surfed Haleiwa and Kammies instead, 'cept in all honesty, it was a lot bigger than what's in that pic (Maybe that wasn't a set, since guys are sitting pretty wide of it). I remember watching those huuuuge long airdrops out there. Very heavy.<P>That's a dream spot to me....would love a shot at it, but doubt my back could handle the beatings after a bad injury a couple years ago. Sigh. Just gonna have to settle for Cali for now...not a bad things at all !<p>[This message has been edited by Waldo (edited 12-13-2002).]
I wanted to take a tow-in clinic in HI, but chickened out. The biggest I've been in is 8-10 ft. and I stared at it for about 15 minutes before I threw myself out there.
I know some of the guys from SWD forum charge legit Todos Santos.<P>If anyone remembers "Eddie Wouldnt GO there" That guy CHARGED some major surf at Todos, and there are pictures too (I cant find them, somebody help?). Some some of the guys around DO surf some pretty heavy waves. Me, well, Im in a zone that doesnt have big waves, but instead a bunch of perfect right points
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Nami:<BR><B>I wanted to take a tow-in clinic in HI, but chickened out. The biggest I've been in is 8-10 ft. and I stared at it for about 15 minutes before I threw myself out there. </B><HR></BLOCKQUOTE><P>Nami...a tow in clinic? What do they run surf schools like Corky Carrol's but in 30-foot waves? First I've heard of any sort of organized training (Other than the Bilagong Odyssey crew's training sessions).